[christianchevell]

I ran a bypass of zero ohm wire around the under hood terminal post for the positive for jumping on the drivers front fenderwell and its done well to limit more my hot start problems but before ever even doing that I removed the center section of hood to firewall seal for some heat relief, wrapped and replaced starter/battery along with checking all grounds and taking out the crap trunk ground and sanding inside it as its the worst..painted over flat bar sort of tapped hole spot welded into trunk metal that's painted with the trunk..... Sometimes even a simple battery store that replaces starters can be the ticket or a Les Schwab tire center here with a nice Matco or what ever scanner /diagnostic OBD2 compatible tool checking things out from someone used to it, you could try as I did just talking to the guys at the local alternator rebuild place you know and getting some zero ohm wire free...LOL

And its all in who really knows what's what in a electrical circuit that is the starter loop.
Mine just did slow starting when hot due to header heat stroke, cooled down no problem but usually not the fastest starter anyway being built and tight.... My slow starting would cause the stabillitrac code and t/c loss and go sort of safe..limp..richer until I could either restart faster or disconnect and reconnect battery only when I did lots of stop and go restarts with engine hot and oil like 200 degrees plus. Hot operating temp....

You do sound like a ground or other connection issue and a good electrical shop would be the most competent source after a free trip to the local Battery store for testing, ( around here battery exchange etc....batteries and bulbs etc...). Would if I had your problem invest in a competent electrician....at the rates compared to what you paid you would have initially saved money most likely rather than throwing parts at it. Local auto electric place worth a crapola?

Anyway the hot start issue has only happened to me once now in months with the bypass around the choke point where some resistance should be expected from the terminal being on the line and a change in wiring gauge after the terminal post. Read about it on here.... I did a simple side splice with cover from electrical tape weaving the exposed ends into a bare section on each side of the post cut with a exacto knife.....And the weather has gotten lot hotter so It does seem to get a little more power around to the starter IMO form what I can tell.... A mod that cost..notta lotta.....

BTW on my new engine my tuner had left my fuel injection grounds un-tighted other than that his work was real good and being distracted is something he is constantly from customers.....Eventually it showed a little off behavior when the grounds finally started to short on one side....and I went over every connection on my wiring after that myself....and do a draw down on the battery /load test not just a simple oh it shows 12.5 volts when it should if real good be more like getting 14 from the alternator to recharge it which if good is more than minimal and should have a great cold cranking amp number...