The purpose of this post is to help those who wish to remove their stock rubber subframe bushings and install a set of aftermarket bushings. I just installed my solid aluminum subframe bushings from Pegasus, and am amazed at the improved handling.
Task: Removal of factory bushings and installation of aftermarket bushings.
Conditions: Driveway/garage setting with appropriate tools, which I will list; no cutting/fabrication required. Given an instructional video to demonstrate the removal process, and a table of torque specifications.
Standard: Successful installation with everything torqued to exact specifications.
I. Gathering the equipment needed:
2 floor jacks
4 jack stands
Blow torch
4 six inch sections of 2×4 wood
Sockets-1", 15/16 deep socket, 7/8, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 1/2 to 3/8 adapter
Wrenches- 18mm, 21mm
Torque wrench (1/2 inch drive)
1/2 drive 3 inch extension
Rubber hammer
Channel lock pliers
Small pry bar
Lug wrench or impact
Breaker bar with 1/2 drive
II. Preparing the subframe
o Raise the car with a jack at the preferred jack points. These are the hard metal near the wheel wells on the underside of the body. Emplace the 4 jackstands in their respective spots. Do not place the jackstands too close to the wheel well.
o Remove the rear wheels. Its a 7/8 socket.
o Emplace a floor jack with a wood block under the differential IOT (in order to) brace it.
See below, Figure 1A
o Remove the subframe bolts one at a time and then place them back in 5 threads. Use the 15/16 deep socket for these, and you may need the breaker bar/impact to get them loose due to the higher torque specification.
o Remove the lower control arm bolt at the knuckle. (18mm wrench and socket)
o Remove the lower shock bolt from the lower control arm. (21mm wrench and socket)
o Loosen the lower control arm bolt (upper bolt) so that it can move, allowing you to pull the LCA down and away from the knuckle. This provides freedom of movement of the subframe. (21mm wrench)
See below, Figure 1B
o Disconnect the swaybar at the endlinks(15mm socket)
III. Removing the factory bushings
o Emplace your second floor jack with your wood blocks under the subframe near the bushing you're going to remove. Ensure it fits and that the blocks are balanced evenly.
See below, Figure 1C
o Remove the front subframe bolt. You should have enough space between the body of the car and the bushing to fit your 1" socket in between it.
o Emplace the 1" socket in between the body of the car and the center of the bushing, ensuring its centered. You now have a press.
o Pump your jack several times, applying pressure to the bushing. No more than 3 pumps, due to the glue still being intact.
o Apply heat to the hat (part of the subframe that holds the bushing) using your blow torch. Heat the surface evenly IOT melt the glue inside. Pump the jack 1-2 times when you see smoke. You may see plastic melting and oozing out the top of the hat. This is normal. Pump the jack accordingly throughout this process, and the bushing will pop out the bottom.
o Ensure that there is no debris (melted plastic, glue, rubber, etc) inside the hat. Use caution due to the heat.
Note: The rear bushing is essentially the same process as above, with a couple differences. First, its a larger bushing and requires the heat to be applied longer. Second, there is a piece protruding down into the bushing that is part of the body of the car, unlike the front bushing where the body where the subframe bolt screws into is flat. The press method is the same, its just a bit more of a chore to get your 1" socket emplaced. See below, Figure 2A
Note: Do one side of the car at a time. Upon completion of 1 side, install your new bushings and put their bolts back in 5 threads. Keep them loose because you still need that freedom of movement for the other side.
Note: Do not worry if the bushings aren't just sliding right in. They will be pressed in by torquing the bolts to spec. No reason to hit them with your hammer. Some people have a harder time getting their bushings installed. For the solid aluminum bushings, freezing the bushings overnight, and then applying heat to the hat before inserting the bushings has made them much easier to get in.
Repeat the process for the other side. Upon completion, its time to bolt everything back up.
IV. Reassembly of cradle and torquing to standard
o Reassemble everything in reverse order from how you disassembled it.
o Torque everything back down utilizing your torque wrench and the specification table provided. Wheel lugs are 140 ft/lbs.
o Follow up with a good wheel alignment
End state: Minimal to no noticeable NVH (I don't have any gain in NVH, have aftermarket exhaust). Improved handling and launching.
Please see my video of the bushing removal. Its a 5 minute walk and talk through video where I demonstrate the removal of one front subframe bushing. Contact me with any questions regarding the procedure.
For bushing fitment into the hat, see photo. The "pointed" side of the bushings face upward, away from the ground. The smaller ones obviously fit into the front hat, and the larger bushings fit in the rear. This was another question that I saw on another thread for this operation, that I wanted to address, and hopefully provide a thorough one-stop-shop for information. See below, Figure 2B
