I picked up a 2013 2LS as my 3rd car and my daily 80 mile commuter in traffic. With rebates and incentives I was in the mid $22k for a new car that looks like this... add some stripes, foglights, CAI and exhaust and I am done.
I have gotten 30+ miles per gallon consistently on trips where I maintain 55-65. For my commute from Daytona to Orlando and back its smooth sailing at 7am (25-28 mpg at 70-80) and pure stop and go 2 hour hell at 4:30. I am averaging 22.5-25mpg per 400+ mile tank depending on how many times my wife steals it at night to take the kids somewhere locally in town. Shut off the traction control and I can shred rubber forever if I wanted to act like some little kid.
Shifting
D to
M on the highway drops me to 4th instantly and I have plenty of HP and gear at 4th to get me into a hole or pass "slower traffic" safely and pretty freaking quickly.
Yes I am setting the maximum gear with the paddles. I can wind every gear to red-line if I want, or I can downshift to any gear I want (holding a gear sounds great with magnaflow glasspacks)...
What I can't do is lug the engine (too high a gear for the speed) or
accidentally start the car in anything but first.
The problem with those two things is what?
I own a 2003 SMT6 MR2 Spyder. A true clutchless 6-speed transmission. the hydraulic clutch is engaged by the computer and the engine revs to match the gear selection or lugs because of poor selection. That is true paddle shifting, if you ever auto-crossed one you know what I mean.
a computer controlled double rev blip to keep the nose up when downshifting in a tight corner is SAWEET.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2LS or its gearing unless you are looking for a quarter mile killer, or track car. If you thought you were going to get a competive car for those purposes for under $30k
new you are an idiot or not competitive anyways
My 2cents