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Old 06-19-2017, 05:36 PM   #18
christianchevell
old school chevy rodder
 
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Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
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Also since you installed the cam yourself you have to ask yourself if you did everything right, many on here over the years thought they were so smart and screwed the pooch. Even the guy Robert Way back doing his had trouble figuring his preload..... so I listened and read over the years and what I could figure was; average is about the .040-.060 range for stock ls lifters that's in the 3/4 turn of the nut at zero lash, the nuts thread pitch is .047 so you have to also figure in the 1.7 rocker ratio x .047 to equal out to actual movement of the preload to be around .070 with a whole turn more in the ls7 range which still works with a lifter as its for both engines and the plunger travel is ok but tight and loosens up when the engines hot..... But the tighter the lash the harder to crank the engine over, the less prone to high rev valve float but also the noisier the lifter rattle until warmed up its like wow..... Just one thing to think about. Not everything is a easy breezy as a single guys post of his how too do it..

Our engines are so strong they can with rollers easily overcome being way over-lashed and they can also eat the cam, screw the roller lifters,etc.... and hope you did a good break in with br30 driven racing break in oil , or do a hardened 8620 core I do both, and measured along with the recommendations the correct pushrod length....The best tune hands down is always a dyno tune under load on a load bearing dyno. it also helps if the tuner has the stock gm software along with Hp tuners.

A handheld tuner has to have the cost of the tunes added into it for more cars other than a initial tune or two BTW....just as HP tuners licenses its product and you have to buy more tuning capability for more cars to load into it, for a handheld; its a brick only good for the one or two it tuned.....unless you pay to play.
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