Quote:
Originally Posted by ForgedReality
Thanks. 
Holy crap. Those are decent prices, but then it's $10 to ship. And how close is the match? And then you have to wait. |
You've seen it for yourself. I showed you at the Synergys for St. Patricks Day meet. I did all the scuffs on my front fascia. It took a lot of color sanding and buffing, but I got it closer than I would have expected for rattle-can. Mind you, it's confined mostly to the underside of the fascia, or I never would have considered trying it that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForgedReality
But yeah I'd never use rattle cans on bodywork. Anything that goes up against the existing factory paint just won't match all that well due to a lot of factors. Mostly, the metallic elements in the paint will make it look off because they weren't laid down at the same time, so at different angles, you'll be able to spot the repaint with metallic colors. However, the color looks great every time I've used it. I painted my rims, strut tower brace, and three different computer mice with it. As long as it's not a body panel right up against another one, you can't tell. |
You're right about that. When I took a class in automotive painting, they had a paint panel (a 2'x3' piece of sheet metal we used for practice) divided into a grid of a dozen or so squares, each a completely different shade of metallic copper. As it turned out, it was all the same paint. Each square was painted with different pressures, distance, or other variables. So metallics are the trickiest, without a doubt. In the engine compartment surrounded by a lot of black, you won't be able to tell the difference. I painted my CAI with this paint, and it turned out great:
