View Single Post
Old 06-03-2018, 10:18 PM   #8
samgray20
 
samgray20's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Eddyville, KY
Posts: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by eLeSthree View Post
Well your aftermarket throw out bearing should be pushing the clutch fingers in about a half an inch or so. Enough to make the friction disk spin freely. I guess you could have one guy push the pedal, another guy spin the driveshaft with the back wheels jacked up and car in nuetral. You should see the disk spin free.
The TOB looks like it moves about 1/2" to 3/4". The gap between the disks looks like it's about 1/16". With clutch pedal pressed, the driveshaft can be spun with effort and I can see the disks spin separately.

On a side note, I just saw RST written on the clutch as it spun by, so I guess that means I was lied to when I bought the car. Not a huge deal but still.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
__________________
2010 CGM 2SS/RS M6 - Comp 227/243 .620/.612 | Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit - 100 Shot | ARC Bottle Bracket/Heater | NOS Progressive Controller | AEM Wideband | Kooks 2"x3" LTs | 3" Custom Catback | CAI Intake | Bo White PTB | Billet Motor Mounts | Hurst Short Throw | McLeod RXT | RAM TOB | 3.91 W/ Eaton Truetrac, LPW Cover, Poly Bushings, GForce 850HP Axles | Eibach Pro-Plus Kit | Whiteline End Links | Hotchkis Tower Brace | ZL1 Front End | Blue Powder Coated Calipers | Vorsteiner V-FF 101 - 20x11 and 20x10 | M/T Street Comp - 305/35 and 275/40 | 2 JL Amps | Diamond Audio Speakers | JL Stealthbox
samgray20 is offline   Reply With Quote