For what ever reason GM decided to have the factory heater hoses run along side the intake. This is a sure way to cause some heat soak which is not what you want when running at the race track. The answer is to relocate them.
First off I have to give props to GMRULZ and Sack Rat for being the innovation on this mod. I referenced the following post initially and thought I would add more of a DIY flavor to it.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ose+relocation
This is a DIY specifically for using the generic 90 angle hoses. However, the Tech AFX should basically be the same.
http://techafx.com/products/product_...products_id=47
The Tech AFX is a very nice looking piece. If you plan to run without an engine cover and want to dress up you engine bay I would go that route. It can be purchased directly from Tech AFX or someone like ADM Performance. The price of the Tech AFX ranges from $175 - $190 just for the heater hose kit.
I went down the generic route because I do use an engine cover and I was able to buy the two hoses off Amazon for $28.55 to my door and then $3 for a set of hose clamps from the local Auto store.
Thanks to BigRed585lbs I bought the Gates hoses off of Amazon. Instead of buying two 5/8” hoses I used the ¾” hose that has a ¾” flare on the angled side and 5/8” on the straight side. They are Gates Heater Hose #18077 and #18078. Notice the ¾” hose is a bit longer and will need more trimming to fit properly.
I also decided to use regular hose clamps on the firewall side since they really wouldn’t be seen much and would be easier to work with using a ratchet. For the water pump hoses I chose to use the factory hose clamps. They match up a little better with the rest of the engine bay and they are easy enough to work with.
The process is pretty straight forward:
1. Drain most of the radiator fluid. Use the drain plug on the lower part of the radiator on the driver’s side. Catch it in a container that you can use to pour back in when you’re done.
2. Take note of which hose goes to which section on the firewall and water pump.
3. Remove the factory hoses. I used a pair of long nose vice grips so that I could just clamp them on and move the clamp out of the way. The water pump hoses come off pretty easy but the hoses connected to the firewall are not as easy and there is limited room. I was able to get one side off with just some twisting back and forth but the other side didn’t want to budge. Instead of taking a chance on damaging the heater core, it made more sense to just cut it off. Using a box cutter I just cut a small slit and then peeled it off.
4. Since I used the Gates hose that had the ¾” inlet I need to trim it down because it was much longer than the 5/8” hose. I took about 2.5” off the end using a hose cutter. A box cutter will work if needed. Just try to make it as straight of a cut as you can. Make sure to position the hose clamps so that you can get to them as easily as you can. I put the 5/8” hose on first so that I could double check how much to take off of the ¾” hose. Remember, you can always take off more...you can't put it back on. I also sprayed a little WD-40 on my finger and rubbed it inside and around the hose opening to make it easier to put back on.
5. Run the hoses down though the ABS perch. It’s a tight fit especially when routing the second hose.
6. Measure up the hose to the water pump and trim off the extra length of the hose. Re-attach the factory hose clamps.
7. Add the radiator fluid back and allow the radiator to burp. Check the radiator fluid a couple times and then re-check the next day.
In the last pics it's hard to notice the hoses.....but that's the point. The engine cover and CAI draw your eyes away from the hoses going along the side. Again, this a performance thing to help keep your intake from heating up with a pair of hoses running 180+ degree water through it.