Dynatech lt,cats and jre tune ordered - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

freefallin2005 · 09-13-2012, 03:14 PM

just ordered new dynatech coated long tubes with cats and the jannety tune.arp header bolts also going on. Already have the rotofab cai and flowmaster cat back. any suggestions for the jack stand install????

Russell James · 09-13-2012, 03:46 PM

- use new GM gaskets

- tall jackstands, set at about 24"

- remove 02s when exhaust is still hot. Or heat the bungs up with a small torch. If the O2s are removed when the pipe is cold, probably will rip the threads off. Heat is the key, either from engine running or a torch to the bung. I crack all four loose after the last drive, getting the exhaust real hot on that last drive. Then remove the manifold/cat, and use the torch to heat the bung back for complete O2 removal.

- remove the manifold/cat together. I use a little rope to lower it down to the floor so it doesn't drop if working by myself. I tie the rope off up top while zipping the bolts off... so it doesn't drop.

- remove the spark plugs before taking the manifolds off, or one will get cracked

- before putting the headers on, get a good angle to look at the dipstick tube hole in the block with a flashlight. Then remember that angle, looking through the ABS pipe area. That hole is tough to find once the header is on, but if you know the angle to look wiht a flashlight it can be found. Don't bother trying to find that hole blind, you will waste hours. Find it with the flashlight, then stick the tube in.

- air ratchet makes the job go real quick

- anti seize on the ... spark pugs, O2s, and header bolts on reinstall

- be very carefull putting the plugs and header bolts back in. You do not want to strip out the aluminum head threads. Turn in by hand, if it binds up don't force it, get it back in straight before putting a wrench to it.

- header bolts, tighten from the center out. If the flange is flat, and you tighten from the center out, with new GM gaskets, they won't leak. And you don't have to gorilla tighten the bolts, just nice and firm tight. German spec - goodentight.

- if the header flange isn't flat, file it or take it to a machine shop and they can grind it flat. It will draw up a little warpedness, but that flange should be pretty flat to avoid leaks.

- the O2 connections all have a green connection lock pin that has to be removed before you can unclip that connection. On the back of the heads that can be tough to see, but make sure that is removed before trying to force that connection open.

- get a spark plug tap at an auto parts store and run it down all 4 O2 bungs in the new pipes. Most auto parts stores have them. Those bung threads are notorious for ripping the threads off your O2s. Won't have that problem if you run a tap down them all.

freefallin2005 · 09-13-2012, 04:05 PM

awesome ty ty

09-13-2012, 03:14 PM	#1
freefallin2005 Drives: 2017 rally yellow ss Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: east greenbush, new york Posts: 777 View My Garage	Dynatech lt,cats and jre tune ordered just ordered new dynatech coated long tubes with cats and the jannety tune.arp header bolts also going on. Already have the rotofab cai and flowmaster cat back. any suggestions for the jack stand install????

09-13-2012, 03:46 PM	#2
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	- use new GM gaskets - tall jackstands, set at about 24" - remove 02s when exhaust is still hot. Or heat the bungs up with a small torch. If the O2s are removed when the pipe is cold, probably will rip the threads off. Heat is the key, either from engine running or a torch to the bung. I crack all four loose after the last drive, getting the exhaust real hot on that last drive. Then remove the manifold/cat, and use the torch to heat the bung back for complete O2 removal. - remove the manifold/cat together. I use a little rope to lower it down to the floor so it doesn't drop if working by myself. I tie the rope off up top while zipping the bolts off... so it doesn't drop. - remove the spark plugs before taking the manifolds off, or one will get cracked - before putting the headers on, get a good angle to look at the dipstick tube hole in the block with a flashlight. Then remember that angle, looking through the ABS pipe area. That hole is tough to find once the header is on, but if you know the angle to look wiht a flashlight it can be found. Don't bother trying to find that hole blind, you will waste hours. Find it with the flashlight, then stick the tube in. - air ratchet makes the job go real quick - anti seize on the ... spark pugs, O2s, and header bolts on reinstall - be very carefull putting the plugs and header bolts back in. You do not want to strip out the aluminum head threads. Turn in by hand, if it binds up don't force it, get it back in straight before putting a wrench to it. - header bolts, tighten from the center out. If the flange is flat, and you tighten from the center out, with new GM gaskets, they won't leak. And you don't have to gorilla tighten the bolts, just nice and firm tight. German spec - goodentight. - if the header flange isn't flat, file it or take it to a machine shop and they can grind it flat. It will draw up a little warpedness, but that flange should be pretty flat to avoid leaks. - the O2 connections all have a green connection lock pin that has to be removed before you can unclip that connection. On the back of the heads that can be tough to see, but make sure that is removed before trying to force that connection open. - get a spark plug tap at an auto parts store and run it down all 4 O2 bungs in the new pipes. Most auto parts stores have them. Those bung threads are notorious for ripping the threads off your O2s. Won't have that problem if you run a tap down them all.

09-13-2012, 04:05 PM	#3
freefallin2005 Drives: 2017 rally yellow ss Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: east greenbush, new york Posts: 777 View My Garage	*awesome ty ty*