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#1 |
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9.56@144.09
Drives: 2013 zl1 black Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: dawson creek
Posts: 272
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linenfelter dual fan heat xchanger
does anyone have the lingenfelter dual fan heat xchanger. and is it better than the ones with no fans. looking to change mine but not sure which way to go.
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#2 |
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SLOBRA1
Drives: GT500/Cruze/DMax/Cobra Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Alberta
Posts: 595
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I would go with fans for sure, especially in stop and go traffic or staging lanes.
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2010 GT500 Best ET=10.10 - Best Trap=143.59mph
2003 Turbo Cobra Best ET=8.27 - Best Trap=166.42mph |
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#3 |
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Car Lover By Nature
Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue Metallic SS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central FL
Posts: 2,327
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I went fanless on my Ron Davis HXer because having to worry about failing fans is a headache I can do without.
there are plenty of fanless HXers that do just fine.
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#4 |
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9.56@144.09
Drives: 2013 zl1 black Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: dawson creek
Posts: 272
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yes but you can take the fans off if you want.
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 18 ZL1 A10 & 18 2500HD Duramax Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 733
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I agree. It help's a lot in the staging lane. I use AFCO heat exchanger with fans and it works great. Helped out a lot during a 1/2 mile roll racing event. It was 100 degrees outside and my mph were always between 160-165 throughout the whole day.
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Procharged 2018 ZL1 A10
2018 2500HD Duramax |
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#6 |
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Dry Heat My @ss
Drives: 2012 ZL1 SUMMIT WHITE Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 758
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I have one on mine and rarely see the temp go above 195* in the desert heat. 1600 miles, no issues.
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2012 #1765: Xpel Clear Bra, 15% Tint, M2W, LPE GT9 Cam, Ported Heads & Snout, Upgraded Valve Train, 90mm TB, LPE Dual Fan HX, 2.55 Upper, 9.1 Lower (18%), Id850's, KB BAP, Roto-fab CAI, AR Stainless Headers, 673 rwhp, A6, Nothin but Fun!
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#7 |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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I have read this post a couple of times and I'm going to throw out my 2 cents. The upper grill space of the ZL1 has 3 heat dispersing units sandwiched together. From the front of the car to the engine they are the supercharger heat exchanger, the air conditioning condensor, and the engine water radiator. Behind the radiator are 2 pretty good electric fans that draw air through all 3 of those structures when they come on. If you drive the car fast enough, the shape of the front of the car channels air through all of the previously mentioned structures and then passes it through the hood vent. I'm of the opinion that if you put another fan in the middle of all of this it may help a little at low speed and probably will hinder air flow above 60 mph. Of course there are multiple factors that could be tested to see what the advantages or disadvantages are such as the cfm of the fans, the fan clutch properties...etc. I'm not convinced they will help much at all. When any of the units up front start getting hot, they all start getting hot very quickly. I probably have more experience with overheating ZL1's than anyone...lol.
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2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 18 ZL1 A10 & 18 2500HD Duramax Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 733
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With fans there's always air being passed through the heat exchanger so the fluid in the intercooler system will stay cooler and won't rise in temperature as fast. When you're at a stop no air is passing through the heat exchanger and that's when IAT's goes up
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Procharged 2018 ZL1 A10
2018 2500HD Duramax |
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#9 | |
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SLOBRA1
Drives: GT500/Cruze/DMax/Cobra Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Alberta
Posts: 595
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Quote:
Fans on your H/E won't do you much good at +30mph, but I'm worried about stop/go traffic and staging lanes. I'm guessing that most aftermarket toons start to pull timing around 130F IAT2 and the stock toon is even lower. Keeping your IAT2 as low as possible is in your best interests with any boosted car. Fans ftw in my book.
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2010 GT500 Best ET=10.10 - Best Trap=143.59mph
2003 Turbo Cobra Best ET=8.27 - Best Trap=166.42mph |
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#10 | |
![]() Drives: 18 ZL1 A10 & 18 2500HD Duramax Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 733
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Quote:
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Procharged 2018 ZL1 A10
2018 2500HD Duramax |
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#11 | |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
I never have excessive IAT's when idling even if my supercharger has boiled all of the water out of the system and the pump goes dry, it will run dry at 117 degrees at idle. I've checked it. I just don't think it is going to make much difference and I think it has the potential to reduce airflow at speed. Honestly, it might be good to change the stock settings when the fans come on.... Or possibly install an override switch to just keep them on constantly when staging for drag racing. That would probably give you the most bang for the buck but I just don't think it will make much difference in traffic.
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() Last edited by jessrayo; 08-25-2013 at 11:51 PM. |
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#12 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: none Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: DFW area
Posts: 1,844
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#13 |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Actually, I was thinking it through while I was typing may do this myself...lol.
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#14 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 CTS-V- totalled/ 45TH ss- SOLD Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,096
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Have you considered a more advanced hood heat extractor or bigger cowl hood also? Something like hex vents should open up better channels on the hood to allow heat to escape from. if it isn't trapped under the hood, the under hood temp should remain much lower ( I think I remember a 20 degree difference from somewhere.) With hex vents for track, do not have any water deflectors and they are a direct heat escape channel. Also by opening the path up, the heat escapes over the center of the hood rather than rear. This means heatsoak should be reduced as it doesn't allow the heat to penetrate into your throttle body.
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2014 CTS-V... with some go-fast bits coming
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