Things to be careful when going towards 700rwhp

[11B250]

Just curious what components need extra attention when you start getting high on the rwhp on these cars? How does the tranny, engine, drive shaft, clutch, rear handle higher powers like 700rwhp?

From my fbody days I know the 10 bolt rear and the 4L60E would be the first things that would need to be beefed up.

How about these cars? Will they take the extra boost and power? Would hate to destroy the rear or something at the track because I'm making 200hp more at the wheels! (I'm only looking to do bolt on mods)

Just trying to create a road map for myself reference this ZL1

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[Trackman]

The inter-cooler is about the only thing that should be addressed at this power level.
I suppose a clutch won't last long at that level either.

[AZ-ZL1]

Dual fuel pump likely, BAP at minimum

[11B250]

Originally Posted by AZ-ZL1

Dual fuel pump likely, BAP at minimum

What's BAP?

I'm assuming at this point, injectors are going to be concern too.

Originally Posted by Trackman

The inter-cooler is about the only thing that should be addressed at this power level.
I suppose a clutch won't last long at that level either.

So you'd think the clutch would need to be upgraded at this point huh. I'm curious of their threshold. is it just enough to handle this power? or is there some room?

[BPG]

Originally Posted by 11B250

What's BAP?

I'm assuming at this point, injectors are going to be concern too.



So you'd think the clutch would need to be upgraded at this point huh. I'm curious of their threshold. is it just enough to handle this power? or is there some room?

Boost-a-pump

I have no idea what the upper threshold is on these clutches, though. Seems I see plenty people in the high 600s without mention of a clutch replacement.

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by 11B250

So you'd think the clutch would need to be upgraded at this point huh. I'm curious of their threshold. is it just enough to handle this power? or is there some room?

The clutch depends on what you do with the car. If you just drive it on the street the stock clutch will work fine for years. I would not change a clutch until you start to have difficulty shifting. The ZL1 has a hydraulic clutch that shares fluid with the brakes, if you run the car on a road course the brakes will heat the fluid and it will need frequent bleeding or you will not have good disengagement and more wear. If you drag race the car with 700 whp it will eat the stock clutch in about 7 passes. Im on my 3rd clutch, I went from the stock to a ZR1 corvette unit to the Mantic one I have now and on last inspection it is showing significant wear. The drag racing with high horsepower is tough on the clutch.

[BigBlock69RS]

Good article on what breaks on a 10-11 Camaro
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...parts_failure/

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by BigBlock69RS

Good article on what breaks on a 10-11 Camaro
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...parts_failure/

THis doesn't really apply to the ZL1. A lot of ZL1 parts have been upgraded to withstand the higher HP.

OP- I agree with the other commenters here. I think the biggest issue will be the injectors/ fuel system and the intercooler. From talking to several tuners, I have head that the stock injectors are already pretty close to threshold at stock HP, so to get to 700 RWHP you will definitely want to upgrade. Accompany those with a BAP and you should be in good shape.

[tones2SS]

Originally Posted by Deke736

I think the biggest issue will be the injectors/ fuel system and the intercooler. From talking to several tuners, I have head that the stock injectors are already pretty close to threshold at stock HP, so to get to 700 RWHP you will definitely want to upgrade. Accompany those with a BAP and you should be in good shape.

I will agree with this post.
How about the rear axle shafts? Aren't those a weak point for 700hp at the rear wheels?

[Matt@510]

The clutch certainly needs addressed at 700rwhp if the does more than cruise to burger joints and car shows. We have more than a handfull of cars making 700rwhp or more and puting down 9's and 10's yet still daily driving them during the week. yes at this power level parts breakage is certainly possible but the ZL1 comes with pretty stout drivetrain. most cars in the 700rwhp range will have no problems with diffs,axles,driveshafts etc.

[ayousef]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

The clutch depends on what you do with the car. If you just drive it on the street the stock clutch will work fine for years. I would not change a clutch until you start to have difficulty shifting. The ZL1 has a hydraulic clutch that shares fluid with the brakes, if you run the car on a road course the brakes will heat the fluid and it will need frequent bleeding or you will not have good disengagement and more wear. If you drag race the car with 700 whp it will eat the stock clutch in about 7 passes. Im on my 3rd clutch, I went from the stock to a ZR1 corvette unit to the Mantic one I have now and on last inspection it is showing significant wear. The drag racing with high horsepower is tough on the clutch.

what rpms are you launching at to be going through clutches so quickly? also what tires?

[MichaelH]

I heard the clutch should be able to handle up towards the 800 hp mark. Also just fuel should be the only concern. This car was built pretty well from the factory

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by ayousef

what rpms are you launching at to be going through clutches so quickly? also what tires?

This is all in 8 months of owner ship but the car is not a daily driver. Some pleasure cruising but mostly driving it to a racing venue and then running it. My car is a track car. If it wasn't for drag racing I may just keep it at the road course. In this time 4 trips to the road racing track, I could look up my receipts for race fuel but I'm estimating about 600 miles of flat out road racing driving. That included 3 complete clutch and brake fluid changes, I believe the clutch is the main culprit but starts to discolor very quickly at racing temps. About 35 passes on the 1/4 mile strip. A few trial 1+ mile runs prior to the texas mile at a private venue. The car has never drag raced on drag tires, most passes on stock tires one night ran on toyo R888 road racing tires (better than stock ) I have launched at many rpms from about 2000 to 4200 (launch control) Most around 3200 rpm in 2nd gear because it produces the best times on stock tires with my power (probably is hell on the clutch) but I hate losing. So far really just destroyed the ZR1 clutch. The Mantic is still hanging in there. Stock was swapped when I went over 750whp because it was very worn with 5000 miles on the car. All drag passes were at 750+ whp. If all I was concerned about was the clutch, I 'm sure I could make it last longer but it is a race car for me. And I do have Drag radials now but my drag strip won't open until the end of March. I guess you could say that I'm hard on cars.

[ayousef]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

This is all in 8 months of owner ship but the car is not a daily driver. Some pleasure cruising but mostly driving it to a racing venue and then running it. My car is a track car. If it wasn't for drag racing I may just keep it at the road course. In this time 4 trips to the road racing track, I could look up my receipts for race fuel but I'm estimating about 600 miles of flat out road racing driving. That included 3 complete clutch and brake fluid changes, I believe the clutch is the main culprit but starts to discolor very quickly at racing temps. About 35 passes on the 1/4 mile strip. A few trial 1+ mile runs prior to the texas mile at a private venue. The car has never drag raced on drag tires, most passes on stock tires one night ran on toyo R888 road racing tires (better than stock ) I have launched at many rpms from about 2000 to 4200 (launch control) Most around 3200 rpm in 2nd gear because it produces the best times on stock tires with my power (probably is hell on the clutch) but I hate losing. So far really just destroyed the ZR1 clutch. The Mantic is still hanging in there. Stock was swapped when I went over 750whp because it was very worn with 5000 miles on the car. All drag passes were at 750+ whp. If all I was concerned about was the clutch, I 'm sure I could make it last longer but it is a race car for me. And I do have Drag radials now but my drag strip won't open until the end of March. I guess you could say that I'm hard on cars.

oh my that definitely is hard at least youre making it worth the money you spent, I downshift to 3rd floor it for half a second freak the shit out because it kicks out badly with what im assuming to be 1000+ rwhp right now, that's as aggressive as I get