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Old 03-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #1
dcoates18481
 
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Max HP on stock drivetrain??

It's probably been answered 1000 times but i cant find it in search...
What is the most you can put on the stock drivetrain before breakage occurs?

I figure the clutch would be first then driveshaft, axles .

What is the max the stock bottom end of a LS3 will take long term?

What will the stock TR6060 handle?

Need to know at what HP point to stop modding the engine until i beef up the above.
I get dynoed next week to get my ballpark HP/TQ
Thanks.
Dave
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcoates18481 View Post
It's probably been answered 1000 times but i cant find it in search...
What is the most you can put on the stock drivetrain before breakage occurs?

I figure the clutch would be first then driveshaft, axles .

What is the max the stock bottom end of a LS3 will take long term?

What will the stock TR6060 handle?

Need to know at what HP point to stop modding the engine until i beef up the above.
I get dynoed next week to get my ballpark HP/TQ
Thanks.
Dave
Who knows, every car is differrent. Bottom eneds seem strong as long as the tune is good, people make 600+ all day on them. Axles wont take much if you lauch with a sticky drag radial. Clutch might be good 550-600wrhp range. Rear ends need the JRE mod fairly soon on FI builds. I dont now, build the motor and relapce your other shit as it breaks.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBL View Post
build the motor and relapce your other shit as it breaks.
Bad advice... may cost you way more in the end than trying to gather research and replacing the important bits.

I don't know the max that the drivetrain can handle but I'm sure by this bump someone might guide you in a better direction.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:37 PM   #4
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Smile Let me elaborate a little...

I guess i should break it down to components and what they can handle:
stock bottom end no plans for F/I maybe 100 spray someday
stock clutch
stock TR6060
stock driveshaft
stock axles
stock Diff

Andi have no suspension mods yet.
if they will help not break shit i will get them!

most of my speed runs come from 1 mile all out, but i will be gearing up for 1/4 mile in the future.
I know thats where the real abuse comes in to play.

so if anyone can plug in real world experience on the components above and what they will handle...please help a guy out!
Thanks
Dave
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:40 PM   #5
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There's no set horsepower level they will break at. Technically you could take a stock car to the dragstrip with some stickies, and if you beat the crap out of it, you will likely start busting axles and other drivetrain components.

A better way to word this would be - what is your HP goal, and how do you use the car? For instance, someone that has 600 rwhp but just cruises around to car shows and never lays into it can probably get away with stock stuff for a very long time. Someone with stock HP that hits the track weekly with sticky tires will need stronger parts sooner.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:40 PM   #6
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I do Texas Mile twice a year maybe 8 runs per event flat out for 1 mile.
just started thinking about 1/4 mole racing again and that really changes everything.

guess what i'm looking for HP wise is all i can get N/A
future mods are a cam and 18" stickies.
maybe 550 hp goal eventually.
tall order N/A i know, may go turbo some day.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcoates18481 View Post
It's probably been answered 1000 times but i cant find it in search...
What is the most you can put on the stock drivetrain before breakage occurs?

I figure the clutch would be first then driveshaft, axles .

What is the max the stock bottom end of a LS3 will take long term?

What will the stock TR6060 handle?

Need to know at what HP point to stop modding the engine until i beef up the above.
I get dynoed next week to get my ballpark HP/TQ
Thanks.
Dave
here read this. I have found through experience this article is pretty accurate.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...e/viewall.html
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:21 PM   #8
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I ran seven 9 second passes on a VERY mildly beefed up Turbo 350 tranny. Then I took off the 150 laughing gas shot before I broke the tranny....which will also lunch the converter). The converter was $700, which was 4 times what I invested in the tranny.

I built a 9 second car for $8000, which was my goal. Then I sold it before I blew something up. It's now an alcohol powered points car at the strip
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:46 PM   #9
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I'm shooting for 650-700 here in a few months. Depends on how you drive. Their are people with stock drivetrain deep in the 700rwhp with no problems and people that blew theirs at 550. After the sc I will upgrade clutch, ds, axles, jre posi, bmr bushings, toe rods, and few other things. I've been told if I don't beat on it the stock stuff will be fine for a while at least until I rebuild funds. Clutch would probably go first
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:52 PM   #10
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found this article that seemed like a good breakdown for each section and when to expect issues. This was for my '10 but probably applies as a good guideline.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1106_fifth_gen_camaro_parts_failure/
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC View Post
There's no set horsepower level they will break at. Technically you could take a stock car to the dragstrip with some stickies, and if you beat the crap out of it, you will likely start busting axles and other drivetrain components.

A better way to word this would be - what is your HP goal, and how do you use the car? For instance, someone that has 600 rwhp but just cruises around to car shows and never lays into it can probably get away with stock stuff for a very long time. Someone with stock HP that hits the track weekly with sticky tires will need stronger parts sooner.
Well Put.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:28 PM   #12
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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...e/viewall.html

You should look into toelinks and especially trailing arms and carrier bushings of poly............ I recommend as I have been researching BMR and Maryland speed for the best prices I have found. Also the newer eaton posi unit is nice with the worm drive type screws.
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