HELP!! Non RS switchback turn light - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Can't_C_Me · 03-25-2014, 04:47 PM

I have a searched and all I find is fixes for RS car's. So I ask, how do I stop my switchback turn signals from hyper blinking? I have the resistors that came with them and they get extremely hot which means they are operating properly. So what am I missing? The amber and white lights all work like they should also, just the blinking problem.

sappy · 03-25-2014, 08:05 PM

I have them as well. The only reason i could think of is you have a loose connection or one of your resisters isnt working properly. Did you double check all your t-tape/solder to make sure that the connection is there? Do you have spare resistors?

Can't_C_Me · 03-25-2014, 08:12 PM

I have everything hooked up as the directions. Both resistors heat up when the white LEDs are on like they should. And when the Amber light is on its cool. But when the hazard lights are on they blink normal. I tried on one side to flip the way I had it connected but didnt work. The amber light would just stay on.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

sappy · 03-25-2014, 11:18 PM

the hyperflash happens when bulbs are out. but in are case it's from the wattage for the leds. the led takes less power than a normal halogen bulb so the resister evens out the power making the car think the light isnt dead/dieing. with that being said i can only think of a few solutions if the lights still hyper flash.

bad transistor (even though its getting hot dosent mean its working. might be bad) i went threw 4 sets before i got it right.

the transistors are the wrong wattage.

also try messing with the bulbs. flip them the other way in the socket.

try putting then on opposite sides. for some reason my bulbs only played game when they were on a certain side of the car.

other than that i dont know what to tel you.

maybe someone else can put in there 2 cents

BlueSteele · 03-25-2014, 11:33 PM

Do you get a message on the dash telling you which bulb is "out"? If no message I would say it's internal to the bulbs.

Green Machine · 03-25-2014, 11:53 PM

This is just my opinion and I'm not there to see but...

The resistor that you received when buying the switch back LED bulbs should be cold when the markers are on (white). And, warm when the signals are blinking (amber).

Sounds to me you may have tapped the wrong wire.

When you flipped it the other way did you make sure you kept the ground wire end connected? I haven't installed mine yet so I can't tell you what wires are what yet.

Sent from somewhere on the road.

Can't_C_Me · 03-26-2014, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSteele

Do you get a message on the dash telling you which bulb is "out"? If no message I would say it's internal to the bulbs.

I do get a message on the dash for both sides.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Machine

This is just my opinion and I'm not there to see but...

The resistor that you received when buying the switch back LED bulbs should be cold when the markers are on (white). And, warm when the signals are blinking (amber).

Sounds to me you may have tapped the wrong wire.

When you flipped it the other way did you make sure you kept the ground wire end connected? I haven't installed mine yet so I can't tell you what wires are what yet.

Sent from somewhere on the road.

According to all the threads I've seen and post of installation from YouTube the resistor is supposed to be hot when the park light (white) is on. And cool when the turn signal (amber) is flashing. You can see one of the diagrams I found online up a few post.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sappy

the hyperflash happens when bulbs are out. but in are case it's from the wattage for the leds. the led takes less power than a normal halogen bulb so the resister evens out the power making the car think the light isnt dead/dieing. with that being said i can only think of a few solutions if the lights still hyper flash.

bad transistor (even though its getting hot dosent mean its working. might be bad) i went threw 4 sets before i got it right.

the transistors are the wrong wattage.

also try messing with the bulbs. flip them the other way in the socket.

try putting then on opposite sides. for some reason my bulbs only played game when they were on a certain side of the car.

other than that i dont know what to tel you.

maybe someone else can put in there 2 cents

I'm going to look into finding some more 6ohm resistors locally. To see if the ones I got are just bad or cheap. Because everything else works. Just the hyper blinking.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 03-26-2014, 12:24 AM

Are you using 1 or 2 resistors per bulb?

Can't_C_Me · 03-26-2014, 12:25 AM

I'm only using one per bulb. Which is what came with the bulbs.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

Green Machine · 03-26-2014, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Can't_C_Me

According to all the threads I've seen and post of installation from YouTube the resistor is supposed to be hot when the park light (white) is on. And cool when the turn signal (amber) is flashing. You can see one of the diagrams I found online up a few post.

Look at diode dynamics YouTube video on how to install.

The resistor goes between the turn signal positive and ground.

Not parking light and ground.

This should cause the resistor to be hot with signals and cold with markers/parking lights.

Sent from somewhere on the road.

Can't_C_Me · 03-26-2014, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Machine

Look at diode dynamics YouTube video on how to install.

The resistor goes between the turn signal positive and ground.

Not parking light and ground.

This should cause the resistor to be hot with signals and cold with markers.

Sent from somewhere on the road.

Will try it in the morning for sure. I pm'd D. D. for help and they replied asking for more info on install. I'll try what you said to see what happens thx.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

Green Machine · 03-26-2014, 12:40 AM

Let me know what happens. In case you want to make sure, go to the switch back bulb page and scroll down to the video explaining hyperblink fix

Sent from somewhere on the road.

Can't_C_Me · 03-26-2014, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Machine

Look at diode dynamics YouTube video on how to install.

The resistor goes between the turn signal positive and ground.

Not parking light and ground.

This should cause the resistor to be hot with signals and cold with markers/parking lights.

Sent from somewhere on the road.

Wow just looked at it. Problem solved Lmao. Thx man! Will report back in the am.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

Can't_C_Me · 03-26-2014, 01:55 PM

I fixed the switchbacks thx to Green Machine. I wired them like you said and they worked. But after I bought 4 new resistors (2 as spares just in case) as the ones I had were cracked on the inside. Got some heavy duty 50w 8ohm ones from a specialty HID store and all is well.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

03-25-2014, 04:47 PM	#1
Can't_C_Me Don't Sleep on My V6 Drives: 2016 C7 1LT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Oxford, GA Posts: 3,596 View My Garage	HELP!! Non RS switchback turn light I have a searched and all I find is fixes for RS car's. So I ask, how do I stop my switchback turn signals from hyper blinking? I have the resistors that came with them and they get extremely hot which means they are operating properly. So what am I missing? The amber and white lights all work like they should also, just the blinking problem. __________________

03-25-2014, 08:12 PM	#3
Can't_C_Me Don't Sleep on My V6 Drives: 2016 C7 1LT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Oxford, GA Posts: 3,596 View My Garage	I have everything hooked up as the directions. Both resistors heat up when the white LEDs are on like they should. And when the Amber light is on its cool. But when the hazard lights are on they blink normal. I tried on one side to flip the way I had it connected but didnt work. The amber light would just stay on. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 __________________

03-25-2014, 11:33 PM	#5
BlueSteele Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pearland, TX Posts: 611	Do you get a message on the dash telling you which bulb is "out"? If no message I would say it's internal to the bulbs. __________________

03-25-2014, 11:53 PM	#6
Green Machine Always Workin Drives: 2021 Mazda MX-5 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Youngstown, OH Posts: 1,362	This is just my opinion and I'm not there to see but... The resistor that you received when buying the switch back LED bulbs should be cold when the markers are on (white). And, warm when the signals are blinking (amber). Sounds to me you may have tapped the wrong wire. When you flipped it the other way did you make sure you kept the ground wire end connected? I haven't installed mine yet so I can't tell you what wires are what yet. Sent from somewhere on the road. __________________ 2023 Vivid Orange 1SS 1LE 6MT Arrived 8/31 Purchased 9/3 2018 1SS 1LE, HyperBlue Metallic (Sold) 2014 1SS 1LE, Black, Twin Turbo (Sold)

03-26-2014, 12:25 AM	#9
Can't_C_Me Don't Sleep on My V6 Drives: 2016 C7 1LT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Oxford, GA Posts: 3,596 View My Garage	I'm only using one per bulb. Which is what came with the bulbs. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 __________________

03-25-2014, 08:05 PM	#2
sappy Drives: white 2011 1lt Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: warren pa Posts: 180	I have them as well. The only reason i could think of is you have a loose connection or one of your resisters isnt working properly. Did you double check all your t-tape/solder to make sure that the connection is there? Do you have spare resistors?

03-25-2014, 11:18 PM	#4
sappy Drives: white 2011 1lt Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: warren pa Posts: 180	the hyperflash happens when bulbs are out. but in are case it's from the wattage for the leds. the led takes less power than a normal halogen bulb so the resister evens out the power making the car think the light isnt dead/dieing. with that being said i can only think of a few solutions if the lights still hyper flash. bad transistor (even though its getting hot dosent mean its working. might be bad) i went threw 4 sets before i got it right. the transistors are the wrong wattage. also try messing with the bulbs. flip them the other way in the socket. try putting then on opposite sides. for some reason my bulbs only played game when they were on a certain side of the car. other than that i dont know what to tel you. maybe someone else can put in there 2 cents

03-26-2014, 12:24 AM	#8
2SSRS@Gen5diy Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: By the lake in AZ Posts: 15,728 View My Garage	Are you using 1 or 2 resistors per bulb?

03-26-2014, 12:40 AM	#12
Green Machine Always Workin Drives: 2021 Mazda MX-5 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Youngstown, OH Posts: 1,362	Let me know what happens. In case you want to make sure, go to the switch back bulb page and scroll down to the video explaining hyperblink fix Sent from somewhere on the road. __________________ 2023 Vivid Orange 1SS 1LE 6MT Arrived 8/31 Purchased 9/3 2018 1SS 1LE, HyperBlue Metallic (Sold) 2014 1SS 1LE, Black, Twin Turbo (Sold)

03-26-2014, 01:55 PM	#14
Can't_C_Me Don't Sleep on My V6 Drives: 2016 C7 1LT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Oxford, GA Posts: 3,596 View My Garage	I fixed the switchbacks thx to Green Machine. I wired them like you said and they worked. But after I bought 4 new resistors (2 as spares just in case) as the ones I had were cracked on the inside. Got some heavy duty 50w 8ohm ones from a specialty HID store and all is well. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 __________________