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#1 |
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First Oil Change...... When ???
What is the best time to do the first oil change ?? Some say 500mi, others 1000mi and so on
![]() I've heard so many differnt opinions...........I think I need more before I decide
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'14 1LE, Recaro, Cammed, Headers, Hi Flows, CAI, Tuned, 486 RWHP
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H57UfKCO0EY&feature=youtu.be |
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#2 | |
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2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
![]() I did mine at 1000 because I was heading to the track for the weekend.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,496
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Did mine at 500.
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SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs.
J-Rod Built and Matt@FSP Tuned |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 14 SS/ 1LE Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: parts unknown
Posts: 937
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I did mine at 750mi
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Triple Black ZL1 M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 584
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They are setup with mobile one from the factory. Its not like the old days of breaking it in and all that. Drive it and enjoy it and you will be safe at 3-5k miles. Unless you're OCD like some and still stick to the 3k mark. But with the full synthetic oils out there, they work pretty well.
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CenterForce DYAD Dual Disc Clutch, JDP stage 2 Clutch Reservoir, Rotofab CF CAI with Big Gulp and WW Reservoir Relocate, Stainess Works LT Headers and Retro Cat-Back with Cat Delete, MGW ST Shifter with custom Knob, CF Tail light Bezels, more to come...
Build Thread for my Z is in the works..... |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,496
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This is true, new synthetics last well past 3,000. I heard a lot about engine break-in , and thus asked to see the oil after the change to confirm how dirty it was etc, but the tech didnt save a sample for me...so i am not sure if it was worth it. For me, I am not a fan of what Mobil 1 has become(not what it used to be), and changing it early was worth it to me as its the first car I bought new and want to do ALL I can to extend the life. Again, I wish I was able to confirm if worth it, but peace of mind was def worth it anyway.
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SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs.
J-Rod Built and Matt@FSP Tuned |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 1LE NPP Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 1,434
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As you can see from the current answers, there are differing opinions on just about everything regarding break-in.
I knew some guys that worked on motorcycle racing teams in my younger days and talked break-in extensively. I subscribe to the camp that one should use heavy loads while gradually increasing your RPM limits over the first 50 to 100 miles in order to facilitate as much ring pressure against the walls as possible. This also means that you are scuffing the hone as much as possible. Which means that you should see a larger amount of material/particles in your oil. So I try to do an oil change as soon as break-in is complete - say 100 miles. Unfortunately, since my 1LE pickup was a major road trip, I didn't get to do the first oil change until 750 miles, which I considered dangerously late, but that's me. I would like to point out that regardless of break-in procedure, the largest deposit of metal particles your engine will see is in its first few miles of operation. So as far as I'm concerned, everyone should be doing an early oil change to get those out. |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: '14 Summit White 2ss 1le Rs Npp Nav Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 176
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Y not just contact gm to get info.
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#9 |
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They dont come with Mobile 1 anymore, unless something changed again for 2014.
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#10 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2015commemorative vert 2SS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: northern Indiana
Posts: 949
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I Talked with two different GM dealers about this. They said it's not like the old days when you needed to change out the break in oil. They told me that once a year or roughly 5K miles, which ever comes first.
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2018 ZL1 Bright Yellow, A10, PDR, sunroof, carbon hood, and dash- sold
2020 2SS A10 sunroof..shock and steel special-traded 2015 commemorative vert 2ss |
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#11 | ||
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2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
Quote:
The SS/1LE does not come with a full synthetic. It is a DEXOS certified semi-synthetic blend. 2013 owners manual, section 11-12 or page 364: http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...k13camaro1.pdf "Use only engine oil licensed to the dexos1 specification, or equivalent, ofthe proper SAE viscosity grade. ACDelco dexos1 Synthetic Blend is recommended" Matt
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#12 |
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I've read the initial oil fill on many engines have elevated levels of ZDDP to help with the initial break-in. If so, changing it early may do more harm than good as most oils now have minimum levels of ZDDP to keep from fouling the Cat/Converters.
For that reason, I changed mine initially at 3,000 miles.
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Clear Bra, Tint, Splash Guards, Ceramic Coating, Painted Spoiler and Rear Views
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#13 |
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Institutionally Insane
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With my fist 5th gen, I changed the oil at 600 or so after 30 minutes of driving and sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs for an analysis. I did a hard break in.
The report I got back was high amounts of aluminum, copper and silica. All particles are softer than more harmful contaminants, yet, is a wise idea if breaking in hard to change the oil within 1000k. OCD, piece of mind, overkill? All the above? I have 2 first gens and use high zinc and dyno on break in's and I break in hard. I dump after 400-500 miles then refill with Synthetic. To each his own I guess...right, wrong? No conclusive data suggests keeping factory filled crankcase oil for the full DIC algorithms is harmful. However, considering the %age of contaminants in my oil from the report, I felt better changing it. And as a side note...If you drive hard, the DIC will compensate..if you drive like a gramma, DIC will compensate. If you use a high quality 100% synthetic Pennziol Platinum, Mobil 1 with a high quality filter (Mobil1 K&N) stick to your DIC % of oil life left and do NOT change it at 3k. Synthetics are great, after initial break in and second oil changes for 7,000 to 10k.
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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#14 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '12SS/2SS/45TH-'06 2500HD/Silverado Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 2,105
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3129 first change...6051 second change. Just turned a big 6301 yesterday!
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