Easiest way to remove the diff pumpkin - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

dcmock · 04-02-2015, 02:11 AM

Im gonna swap gears to 373 but first need some tips on the easiest way to remove the pumpkin. Do I have tonremove the whole rear cradle? Or is there an easier way?

376LS3 · 04-02-2015, 03:20 AM

No not at all. Just remove rear valance and exhaust. Remove drive shaft at the diff. Go to either side of car and remove the tire. Remove the axle nut. Then remove the brake line from the upper control arm. Remove the toe rod from the wheel hub. Remove the trailing arm from the hub. Loosen but to not remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to hub. Then remove the bolt holding the upper control arm to hub. This will allow the hub to fall towards you. Do not let it fall freely as the wheel speed sensor is still attached and will break very easily. Without letting the hub fall, use a rubber mallet and hit the end of the axle until it breaks free and starts moving in. Carefully push the axle towards the differential as you slowly let the hub fall towards you. The axle will eventually slide out. Find something for the hub to rest on as you finish everything else. Go under the car and use a pry bar in between the axle and the diff housing. You will see the axle move once you pop the c-clip. It does take quite a bit of force the first time.

Place a tranny jack or something comparable under the differential. Remove the 3 bolts holding the differential to the subframe. Start to lower the tranny jack. Remove breather line from passenger side of diff on the top. Once the differential clears the mounting brackets, slide the differential as far as you can towards the side you removed the axle from. (It wont be far) Use a prybar in between the axle and diff housing to remove the axle from the diff. Push tranny jack away so axle slides out. DO NOT LET EITHER AXLE FALL OUT OF THE HOLE. YOU WILL RUIN THE AXLE SEAL. Make sure the axles come straight out. Ive done this so many times I can do it in my sleep. Lol!

JCunningham · 04-02-2015, 04:59 AM

here is a detailed guide

CamaroCracka · 04-02-2015, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 376LS3

No not at all. Just remove rear valance and exhaust. Remove drive shaft at the diff. Go to either side of car and remove the tire. Remove the axle nut. Then remove the brake line from the upper control arm. Remove the toe rod from the wheel hub. Remove the trailing arm from the hub. Loosen but to not remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to hub. Then remove the bolt holding the upper control arm to hub. This will allow the hub to fall towards you. Do not let it fall freely as the wheel speed sensor is still attached and will break very easily. Without letting the hub fall, use a rubber mallet and hit the end of the axle until it breaks free and starts moving in. Carefully push the axle towards the differential as you slowly let the hub fall towards you. The axle will eventually slide out. Find something for the hub to rest on as you finish everything else. Go under the car and use a pry bar in between the axle and the diff housing. You will see the axle move once you pop the c-clip. It does take quite a bit of force the first time.

Place a tranny jack or something comparable under the differential. Remove the 3 bolts holding the differential to the subframe. Start to lower the tranny jack. Remove breather line from passenger side of diff on the top. Once the differential clears the mounting brackets, slide the differential as far as you can towards the side you removed the axle from. (It wont be far) Use a prybar in between the axle and diff housing to remove the axle from the diff. Push tranny jack away so axle slides out. DO NOT LET EITHER AXLE FALL OUT OF THE HOLE. YOU WILL RUIN THE AXLE SEAL. Make sure the axles come straight out. Ive done this so many times I can do it in my sleep. Lol!

What he said ^^^

bct10985 · 04-02-2015, 10:58 AM

So u will ruin the seal by removing the axles?

LS7 427 · 04-02-2015, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bct10985

So u will ruin the seal by removing the axles?

Only if you do not remove them carefully. Straight out pull and don't let them fall onto the seal. Nothing to it really, just exercise care as you normally would and support the axle as it slides out of the diff.

Bryan

CamaroCracka · 04-02-2015, 02:07 PM

It's easiest to pull them laying under the car so you can better support the entire axle. Once you use the pry bar to get the first inch out, you should be able to slide it out holding it with both hands. That is how I did mine with no issues.

dcmock · 04-04-2015, 01:17 AM

Thank u doesnt sound too bad!

Mr_Draco · 04-04-2015, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham

here is a detailed guide

Here is the same guide but as a link instead in case you don't want to download anything.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...ation-reva.pdf

Synner · 04-04-2015, 09:12 PM

You can buy Kent Moore DT-48877 to protect the seals while removing the axles.

dcmock · 04-07-2015, 01:20 PM

That is the easiest rear end ive ever pulled out about 1 1/2 hours done!

04-02-2015, 02:11 AM	#1
dcmock Drives: 2010 loaded 2SS L99 tuned OBX long Join Date: May 2010 Location: cassville, MO Posts: 328	Easiest way to remove the diff pumpkin Im gonna swap gears to 373 but first need some tips on the easiest way to remove the pumpkin. Do I have tonremove the whole rear cradle? Or is there an easier way?

04-02-2015, 03:20 AM	#2
376LS3 Eh, that'll happen Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Mesa, Arizona Posts: 1,841	No not at all. Just remove rear valance and exhaust. Remove drive shaft at the diff. Go to either side of car and remove the tire. Remove the axle nut. Then remove the brake line from the upper control arm. Remove the toe rod from the wheel hub. Remove the trailing arm from the hub. Loosen but to not remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to hub. Then remove the bolt holding the upper control arm to hub. This will allow the hub to fall towards you. Do not let it fall freely as the wheel speed sensor is still attached and will break very easily. Without letting the hub fall, use a rubber mallet and hit the end of the axle until it breaks free and starts moving in. Carefully push the axle towards the differential as you slowly let the hub fall towards you. The axle will eventually slide out. Find something for the hub to rest on as you finish everything else. Go under the car and use a pry bar in between the axle and the diff housing. You will see the axle move once you pop the c-clip. It does take quite a bit of force the first time. Place a tranny jack or something comparable under the differential. Remove the 3 bolts holding the differential to the subframe. Start to lower the tranny jack. Remove breather line from passenger side of diff on the top. Once the differential clears the mounting brackets, slide the differential as far as you can towards the side you removed the axle from. (It wont be far) Use a prybar in between the axle and diff housing to remove the axle from the diff. Push tranny jack away so axle slides out. DO NOT LET EITHER AXLE FALL OUT OF THE HOLE. YOU WILL RUIN THE AXLE SEAL. Make sure the axles come straight out. Ive done this so many times I can do it in my sleep. Lol! __________________ 2010 Camaro SS LS3 - No Modz

04-02-2015, 10:58 AM	#5
bct10985 Drives: 2010 2SS LS3, 2013 duramax Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Dover, De Posts: 1,452	So u will ruin the seal by removing the axles? __________________ ECS Ysi-B, cam, Tsp 2" longtubes, Squash dual pumps, Id1300s, meth, 4L80e, FTI 3600, ZL1 3.73 diff, BMR suspension, 15" conversion, weld rts mt 275 et street R. 9.6@147mph

04-02-2015, 02:07 PM	#7
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 3,036	It's easiest to pull them laying under the car so you can better support the entire axle. Once you use the pry bar to get the first inch out, you should be able to slide it out holding it with both hands. That is how I did mine with no issues. __________________ 2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

04-04-2015, 01:17 AM	#8
dcmock Drives: 2010 loaded 2SS L99 tuned OBX long Join Date: May 2010 Location: cassville, MO Posts: 328	Thank u doesnt sound too bad!

04-04-2015, 09:12 PM	#10
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	You can buy Kent Moore DT-48877 to protect the seals while removing the axles.

04-07-2015, 01:20 PM	#11
dcmock Drives: 2010 loaded 2SS L99 tuned OBX long Join Date: May 2010 Location: cassville, MO Posts: 328	That is the easiest rear end ive ever pulled out about 1 1/2 hours done!