2010 - Driver Side Door works... ocasionally - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

bthomp01 · 10-14-2015, 04:32 PM

Just when I'm getting around to listing my car to sell to put a down payment on a very substantial upgrade, it goes and presents the biggest red flag to any potential buyer... by locking them in the car.

It's kind of hard to describe the way it "works", but here it is:

- When the latch works and the car remains unlocked, there's no issue. Interior and exterior handles work fine.
- If I lock/unlock the car, both the interior and exterior handles are unable to unlatch the door.
- No amount of "jiggling the handle" internally will get the door to open.
- "Feathering" the exterior handle a couple times unlatches the door. Both interior and exterior handles go back to working fine until the door gets locked/unlocked again.

So when I finish a drive, I have to roll the window down, tug the exterior handle a few times to "unstick" the latch, then roll it back up.

I took it to a dealer that said they'd have to wait almost a week to even be able to look at it, then gave me a ballpark of $350 or so to fix. I figured I'd see if there's something I can do to resolve it myself faster/cheaper.

Any ideas?

Rahjeir · 10-14-2015, 07:10 PM

Weird problem. Not sure how they can give you a price without looking at it. Makes me wonder if they have seen that before.

Dizzy82 · 10-14-2015, 07:49 PM

Take the door panel off to see if everything is hooked up correctly and not obstructed or getting loose.

bthomp01 · 10-16-2015, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dizzy82

Take the door panel off to see if everything is hooked up correctly and not obstructed or getting loose.

I looked up the instructions to do so, but it looks like most of that stuff is behind the interior plastic molding that you have to grind down to get out? Am I reading that correctly?

Dizzy82 · 10-16-2015, 09:22 PM

Not at all. Get yourself some plastic radio removers they will help alot. The entire door panel comes off. Be sure to note how the door handle cable is attached so you can re insert it if it comes out. The trunk release and window buttons release via male/female plugs. The tweeter housing must be removed first and unplugged. I can't remember if I had the window down or up when I did it.

10-14-2015, 04:32 PM	#1
bthomp01 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM M6 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 359 View My Garage	2010 - Driver Side Door works... ocasionally Just when I'm getting around to listing my car to sell to put a down payment on a very substantial upgrade, it goes and presents the biggest red flag to any potential buyer... by locking them in the car. It's kind of hard to describe the way it "works", but here it is: - When the latch works and the car remains unlocked, there's no issue. Interior and exterior handles work fine. - If I lock/unlock the car, both the interior and exterior handles are unable to unlatch the door. - No amount of "jiggling the handle" internally will get the door to open. - "Feathering" the exterior handle a couple times unlatches the door. Both interior and exterior handles go back to working fine until the door gets locked/unlocked again. So when I finish a drive, I have to roll the window down, tug the exterior handle a few times to "unstick" the latch, then roll it back up. I took it to a dealer that said they'd have to wait almost a week to even be able to look at it, then gave me a ballpark of $350 or so to fix. I figured I'd see if there's something I can do to resolve it myself faster/cheaper. Any ideas? __________________ 2010 IBM 2SS/RS - T BRUTAL Matte Black Bumblebee Stripes - Unpainted Heritage Grille - Blacked Out Bowties - Stainless Works S-Tube Catback - CAI, Inc. Cold Air Intake Whiteline Rear Cradle, Rear Differential, Front Radius Rod Bushings - BC Racing BR Coilovers - Installed by Whiteside Customs

10-14-2015, 07:49 PM	#3
Dizzy82 Drives: 2011 1LT/RS A6 RJT SuperCharged Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: 87114 Posts: 3,501 View My Garage	Take the door panel off to see if everything is hooked up correctly and not obstructed or getting loose. __________________ Power is worthless without control. *The 2nd* protects the 1st.** BMR sub frame brace, BMR tunnel brace, LSR sways, LSR CM ca & tl, Sphon ExD el, GM tower brace, Megan EZ Streets, Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines, PowerStop D/S rotors & pads, Doug Thorty Ceramic Shorties, Magnaflow x-pipe, MRT V2.0, KICKER PowerStage sub & amp, Infinity speakers & tweeters, Viteese Throttle Controller, Viteese Paddle Shifters, ACS T2 Splitter, ACS T2 Ports/Quad LED lights, VDI kit, Havoc diffuser, IPF ECU/TRANS tuned, IPF/KPE Supercharged. 364RWHP/297RWTQ

10-16-2015, 09:22 PM	#5
Dizzy82 Drives: 2011 1LT/RS A6 RJT SuperCharged Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: 87114 Posts: 3,501 View My Garage	Not at all. Get yourself some plastic radio removers they will help alot. The entire door panel comes off. Be sure to note how the door handle cable is attached so you can re insert it if it comes out. The trunk release and window buttons release via male/female plugs. The tweeter housing must be removed first and unplugged. I can't remember if I had the window down or up when I did it. __________________ Power is worthless without control. *The 2nd* protects the 1st.** BMR sub frame brace, BMR tunnel brace, LSR sways, LSR CM ca & tl, Sphon ExD el, GM tower brace, Megan EZ Streets, Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines, PowerStop D/S rotors & pads, Doug Thorty Ceramic Shorties, Magnaflow x-pipe, MRT V2.0, KICKER PowerStage sub & amp, Infinity speakers & tweeters, Viteese Throttle Controller, Viteese Paddle Shifters, ACS T2 Splitter, ACS T2 Ports/Quad LED lights, VDI kit, Havoc diffuser, IPF ECU/TRANS tuned, IPF/KPE Supercharged. 364RWHP/297RWTQ

10-14-2015, 07:10 PM	#2
Rahjeir Drives: 2014 1LT w/RS Summit White Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: New Jersey Posts: 87	Weird problem. Not sure how they can give you a price without looking at it. Makes me wonder if they have seen that before.