Stacked tolerances, or subframe? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SSjosh · 06-11-2017, 11:58 AM

I just put on a set of 20x11 +28 Rohana RFX5s and the car is completely flush on 3 wheels except the rear left is poking 1/2-3/4"!!!

-I've gotten as much negative camber as I can and it still sits out about 3/8". -I've tried timing the bushings, swapping wheels to make sure the offsets aren't different. I've played with toe too. The subframe has dowels that align it correct?

Mods- Hurst springs, bmr trailing arms, subframe inserts.

I have no idea what is wrong. From the looks of it, to fix the problem I need to shorten the distance from the upper control arm to knuckle and bring camber back down. Or move the subframe 1/4 to the right.

Any idea from anyone else?

olblue75 · 06-11-2017, 06:46 PM

I'd put you original wheels back on and take measurements from there to double verify and are you the original owner of the car if not maybe it was wrecked prior to you buying it.

JusticePete · 06-12-2017, 06:33 AM

This post requires pictures so we can see what you are trying to correct.

SSjosh · 06-12-2017, 01:29 PM

I'm going to take off the struts, measure the control arms, and try and reseat the subframe. The pictures I've got are before I noticed the problem too. No wrecks on the car fax but if it could have been curbed. If the car was curbed prior to me getting it, that would lead me to think the right side is bad not the left. Since the right is sitting flush.

JusticePete · 06-12-2017, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSjosh

I'm going to take off the struts, measure the control arms, and try and reseat the subframe. The pictures I've got are before I noticed the problem too. No wrecks on the car fax but if it could have been curbed. If the car was curbed prior to me getting it, that would lead me to think the right side is bad not the left. Since the right is sitting flush.

The sub-frame goes in only one way. All 5th Gen Camaros use the same stamped steel lower control arms. Even though toe links and trailing arms vary by model, they are interchangeable.

Unless some thing badly bent, there is really no need to measure.

Is everything OEM or are there aftermarket parts in the suspension?

SSjosh · 06-12-2017, 03:18 PM

Bmr trailing arms, hurst springs (going back to stock I think), and subframe bushing inserts.

JusticePete · 06-12-2017, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSjosh

Bmr trailing arms, hurst springs (going back to stock I think), and subframe bushing inserts.

Are the trailing arms adjustable?

1Coopgt · 06-12-2017, 06:35 PM

Could one of the rims have the wrong offset ? This should be the first thing to check . Also verify that all 4 rims are the same width .

It's interesting that everyone in this thread jumped to something is wrong with the car first. Op did you every notice one wheel sticking out a little further than the others with the old rims? I'm guessing no . I know I would notice something like that. Hell put the old wheels back on and verify that one isn't sticking out further than the others . Easy enough to measure from the tire face to the outer edge of the wheel well . Or you could take the offending rim and mount it on the other side to see if the issue moves with the rim.

Look at the simple things first . Good Luck.

SSjosh · 06-12-2017, 06:38 PM

They are non adjustable. I measured control arms, toe rods, trailing arms and everything was good. Nothing bent. However, this bushing appears to be different or worn compared to the right side. It looks like it's pulled completely outboard.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

Here's the left wheel before I realized there was a problem.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

Right

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

SSjosh · 06-12-2017, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Coopgt

Could one of the rims have the wrong offset ? This should be the first thing to check . Also verify that all 4 rims are the same width .

Already did that. Wheels are the same.

JusticePete · 06-12-2017, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSjosh

They are non adjustable. I measured control arms, toe rods, trailing arms and everything was good. Nothing bent. However, this bushing appears to be different or worn compared to the right side. It looks like it's pulled completely outboard.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

Here's the left wheel before I realized there was a problem.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

Right

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

That bushing is really a monoball, a large sealed spherical bearing. You'll find more information here.

http://www.jpssonline.com./the-book-...ar-upper-inner

Can you post your alignment specifications?

SSjosh · 06-12-2017, 08:09 PM

I can't even drive it right now because that left rear tire rubs so bad and it's a 30 mile drive to my alignment guy. I've played with camber and toe with no success. I triple checked the wheels. I also measured the wheel wells and they are exactly the same liner to edge.

I'm going to pull that control arm off sometime to see if that bearing is okay.

SSjosh · 06-18-2017, 08:01 AM

Well, the subframe was bound up. It shifted right 1/8 inch when the last bolt was loosened. Wheels poke an even amount left and right.

olblue75 · 06-18-2017, 09:54 PM

What caused it to be bound up???

06-11-2017, 11:58 AM	#1
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	Stacked tolerances, or subframe? I just put on a set of 20x11 +28 Rohana RFX5s and the car is completely flush on 3 wheels except the rear left is poking 1/2-3/4"!!! -I've gotten as much negative camber as I can and it still sits out about 3/8". -I've tried timing the bushings, swapping wheels to make sure the offsets aren't different. I've played with toe too. The subframe has dowels that align it correct? Mods- Hurst springs, bmr trailing arms, subframe inserts. I have no idea what is wrong. From the looks of it, to fix the problem I need to shorten the distance from the upper control arm to knuckle and bring camber back down. Or move the subframe 1/4 to the right. Any idea from anyone else?

06-11-2017, 06:46 PM	#2
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,171	I'd put you original wheels back on and take measurements from there to double verify and are you the original owner of the car if not maybe it was wrecked prior to you buying it. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

06-12-2017, 06:35 PM	#8
1Coopgt Drives: All Black 2012 1LS Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Rochester,NY Posts: 2,042 View My Garage	Could one of the rims have the wrong offset ? This should be the first thing to check . Also verify that all 4 rims are the same width . It's interesting that everyone in this thread jumped to something is wrong with the car first. Op did you every notice one wheel sticking out a little further than the others with the old rims? I'm guessing no . I know I would notice something like that. Hell put the old wheels back on and verify that one isn't sticking out further than the others . Easy enough to measure from the tire face to the outer edge of the wheel well . Or you could take the offending rim and mount it on the other side to see if the issue moves with the rim. Look at the simple things first . Good Luck. __________________ Mods, K&N CAI ,VTC , GM Perf Axleback Exhaust, Elite Eng CC and CSS, GM Strut Tower Brace,Carbon Fiber Anvil Spoiler,ASC T5 Splitter,Gen5diy Foglight kit.

06-18-2017, 09:54 PM	#14
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,171	What caused it to be bound up??? __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

06-12-2017, 06:33 AM	#3
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,171	This post requires pictures so we can see what you are trying to correct.

06-12-2017, 01:29 PM	#4
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	I'm going to take off the struts, measure the control arms, and try and reseat the subframe. The pictures I've got are before I noticed the problem too. No wrecks on the car fax but if it could have been curbed. If the car was curbed prior to me getting it, that would lead me to think the right side is bad not the left. Since the right is sitting flush.

06-12-2017, 03:18 PM	#6
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	Bmr trailing arms, hurst springs (going back to stock I think), and subframe bushing inserts.

06-12-2017, 06:38 PM	#9
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	They are non adjustable. I measured control arms, toe rods, trailing arms and everything was good. Nothing bent. However, this bushing appears to be different or worn compared to the right side. It looks like it's pulled completely outboard. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk Here's the left wheel before I realized there was a problem. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk Right https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Y...w?usp=drivesdk

06-12-2017, 08:09 PM	#12
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	I can't even drive it right now because that left rear tire rubs so bad and it's a 30 mile drive to my alignment guy. I've played with camber and toe with no success. I triple checked the wheels. I also measured the wheel wells and they are exactly the same liner to edge. I'm going to pull that control arm off sometime to see if that bearing is okay.

06-18-2017, 08:01 AM	#13
SSjosh Drives: 2011 SS 6MT Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Gulf Coast Posts: 31	Well, the subframe was bound up. It shifted right 1/8 inch when the last bolt was loosened. Wheels poke an even amount left and right.