Tremec TR-6060: Stainless steel braided clutch line

[TheBrightSide]

I see options from Mcleod, Tick Performance, Ram, and some other generic companies like Summit Racing and Lethal Performance. There’s a bunch of other vendors drop shipping(?) or ordering 3rd party from Tick, so it seems like that’s the popular go-to.

I was looking at a more affordable, DIY type of clutch line. Most of the ones I mentioned right above, however, seem to use -3 AN clutch adapter fittings (nice ones too). The braided SS line itself would remain the same, even if you were to have -4 AN female connectors and the male fittings to them, right? I was questioning that, since -3 AN and -4 AN use their own particular hoses; I just wasn’t sure if the diameter of the hose itself would have changed. If the hose sizes ARE in fact different, this would present a difference in clutch pedal pressure, I assume…

I would simply need to get some form of heat resistant fiberglass wrap or tubing, mainly to prevent heatsoak from giving me a soft clutch pedal. I would opt to keep the factory hard line and just heat wrap that, except it has a fixed rubber hose section right where it connects to the clutch slave cylinder at the bell housing. I want to prevent ANY heat soak if possible, thus I’m trying to heat wrap a nice, flexible clutch line.

Another main question I wanted to ask, is for those who have installed these upgraded clutch lines; which side does the 90-degree fitting (if you have it) go on? Does it go to the CSC (slave) or the CMC (master)? The Tick adjustable CMC includes their SS braided clutch line in the kit, and the installation shows the 90-degree fitting connected to the CMC. I figured that even with a line with just regular STRAIGHT connections/fittings, it shouldn’t kink or bend TOO bad, unless the line is too SHORT, right?

I haven’t really been able to find any -3 AN or -4 AN stainless steel, braided clutch lines with 90-degree female connections on BOTH ends. This, and I was debating on saving money and buying the clutch adapter fittings from Russell(?) or some generic brand, except the way their fittings are, looks like it could leak, since it’s different from the more high quality stuff.

[Bee]

I have a RAM clutch adjuster, but I haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how good it is. I got the kit (78305), which included -3AN braided lines and the adapters. It basically replaces the entire line from the clutch master to the slave. The 90-degree fitting should go to the slave and the straight end goes to the master.

I also have a Tickmaster speed bleeder, which I haven't installed yet either. Since both parts are sitting on my tool cart, I just measured and confirmed the Tickmaster line is actually -4AN.

And since I already had these saved on my computer, I thought I would share some pictures that others posted on the forum. These were specifically for replacing the factory clutch line.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by Bee

I have a RAM clutch adjuster, but I haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how good it is. I got the kit (78305), which included -3AN braided lines and the adapters. It basically replaces the entire line from the clutch master to the slave. The 90-degree fitting should go to the slave and the straight end goes to the master.

I also have a Tickmaster speed bleeder, which I haven't installed yet either. Since both parts are sitting on my tool cart, I just measured and confirmed the Tickmaster line is actually -4AN.

And since I already had these saved on my computer, I thought I would share some pictures that others posted on the forum. These were specifically for replacing the factory clutch line.

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Yeah, I saw this thread with these photos before. Haha I was just confused since the Tick Performance website shows the Tick adjustable clutch master cylinder having the 90-degree connector going to the MASTER cylinder, instead of the slave. But since the factory setup has a 90-degree angle at the slave, it would make sense to stick to that.

I was thinking that if someone made a stainless steel, braided clutch line with 90-degree female connectors on BOTH ends of the line, it would work as well, as the stock clutch line also has a 90-degree (or close) bend where the hard line goes to the master cylinder. Hopefully, the way that I install it won’t leave a kink.

What if I decide to go with a cheaper clutch line upgrade without the 90-degree connector? From what I know, I think 36” inches (3’ feet) was around the size that the aftermarket braided SS clutch lines were, which actually gave a bit of slack to play with. I’m not sure how long the stock clutch line is, since it’s hard to measure…

Also, did did you mean that the Tick remote bleeder line or clutch line, was the one that was -4 AN in size? The Tick website doesn’t list any of the specs on either of those lines, so it’s impossible to tell without trying out the parts or comparing them to something existing. But as far as I’m concerned though, does the difference in size mean that the actual DIAMETER of the line INCREASES? I guess the clutch adapter fittings are all one size, except for the AN connection and size of the line, so it would still limit the flow to the same amount as factory.

And one last thing; the plastic(?) bracket that’s against the firewall, right near the area the hard clutch line connects to the CMC, looks like an absolute bitch to tackle. Have you attempted this job yet? I have small(er) hands, so I might be able to reach upwards and somehow fight the bracket; but I for sure wouldn’t be able to get that from up above the engine bay.

[Bee]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

Yeah, I saw this thread with these photos before. Haha I was just confused since the Tick Performance website shows the Tick adjustable clutch master cylinder having the 90-degree connector going to the MASTER cylinder, instead of the slave. But since the factory setup has a 90-degree angle at the slave, it would make sense to stick to that.

I was thinking that if someone made a stainless steel, braided clutch line with 90-degree female connectors on BOTH ends of the line, it would work as well, as the stock clutch line also has a 90-degree (or close) bend where the hard line goes to the master cylinder. Hopefully, the way that I install it won’t leave a kink.

What if I decide to go with a cheaper clutch line upgrade without the 90-degree connector? From what I know, I think 36” inches (3’ feet) was around the size that the aftermarket braided SS clutch lines were, which actually gave a bit of slack to play with. I’m not sure how long the stock clutch line is, since it’s hard to measure…

Also, did did you mean that the Tick remote bleeder line or clutch line, was the one that was -4 AN in size? The Tick website doesn’t list any of the specs on either of those lines, so it’s impossible to tell without trying out the parts or comparing them to something existing. But as far as I’m concerned though, does the difference in size mean that the actual DIAMETER of the line INCREASES? I guess the clutch adapter fittings are all one size, except for the AN connection and size of the line, so it would still limit the flow to the same amount as factory.

And one last thing; the plastic(?) bracket that’s against the firewall, right near the area the hard clutch line connects to the CMC, looks like an absolute bitch to tackle. Have you attempted this job yet? I have small(er) hands, so I might be able to reach upwards and somehow fight the bracket; but I for sure wouldn’t be able to get that from up above the engine bay.

That’s interesting how the Tick line uses the 90 at the firewall. That got me curious so I opened the rest of the RAM kit. It turns out, both sets of their braided hoses have straight connections (there isn’t any with a 90-degree fitting). Please keep in mind that the RAM adjust goes in-line between the slave and master as it replaces the entire factory line. The shorter line, which goes from the master to the RAM adjuster is 12 inches and the longer line, which runs from the RAM adjuster to the slave is 36 inches. My guess would be the 90-degree at the firewall would allow the line to run under the brake master cylinder down to the clutch slave…which should allow you to use a 36” braided line. The RAM kit is designed to have extra length so you can mount the adjuster in a spot to get to the screw.

For the -4AN, that was for the Tick remote bleeder. The O.D. of that line was 1/4” whereas the RAM lines were 3/16”. The inner diameter will also vary between the different AN sizes…the smaller the diameter the more the pressure will be.

Unfortunately, I haven’t attempted this install yet. My plan is to install the RAM adjuster, a separator clutch reservoir, and the speed bleeder all at the same. I’m sure the fitting at the firewall will be a pain, but I’m not really looking forward to installing the speed bleeder. However, I figured since I’ll have to bleed the clutch anyway, I might as well throw the speed bleeder in to make it easier next time.

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

Originally Posted by Bee

That’s interesting how the Tick line uses the 90 at the firewall. That got me curious so I opened the rest of the RAM kit. It turns out, both sets of their braided hoses have straight connections (there isn’t any with a 90-degree fitting). Please keep in mind that the RAM adjust goes in-line between the slave and master as it replaces the entire factory line. The shorter line, which goes from the master to the RAM adjuster is 12 inches and the longer line, which runs from the RAM adjuster to the slave is 36 inches. My guess would be the 90-degree at the firewall would allow the line to run under the brake master cylinder down to the clutch slave…which should allow you to use a 36” braided line. The RAM kit is designed to have extra length so you can mount the adjuster in a spot to get to the screw.

For the -4AN, that was for the Tick remote bleeder. The O.D. of that line was 1/4” whereas the RAM lines were 3/16”. The inner diameter will also vary between the different AN sizes…the smaller the diameter the more the pressure will be.

Unfortunately, I haven’t attempted this install yet. My plan is to install the RAM adjuster, a separator clutch reservoir, and the speed bleeder all at the same. I’m sure the fitting at the firewall will be a pain, but I’m not really looking forward to installing the speed bleeder. However, I figured since I’ll have to bleed the clutch anyway, I might as well throw the speed bleeder in to make it easier next time.

If you install a new slave cylinder, specifically an adjustable one, mark your pedal position with the old one before you remove it. I had to have my clutch pedal sensor calibrated twice now to get it right. If the pedal positions changes the car will not start because it doesnt know that the clutch is disengaged. If it does start you will lose cruise control until it is properly calibrated. My mechanic was able to do a sensor relearn and rectify the problem fairly quickly, but just something to be aware of.

[Bee]

Originally Posted by The_bald_eagle_machine

If you install a new slave cylinder, specifically an adjustable one, mark your pedal position with the old one before you remove it. I had to have my clutch pedal sensor calibrated twice now to get it right. If the pedal positions changes the car will not start because it doesnt know that the clutch is disengaged. If it does start you will lose cruise control until it is properly calibrated. My mechanic was able to do a sensor relearn and rectify the problem fairly quickly, but just something to be aware of.

That is some great advice right there!!

Thankfully, I'm not planning to replace the clutch slave. The RAM adjuster only changes the position where the clutch engages without changing the pedal position.

[TheBrightSide]

So I don’t know if you guys ever do another bleed of the clutch slave cylinder, right after “breaking in” the new clutch master cylinder? Mine has that little play at the top, like maybe an 1/8th of an inch or a bit more. Pumping my pedal with the clutch fluid reservoir didn’t help anymore; which is also good, cause I didn’t feel comfortable with the fluctuation in the solidness of the clutch pedal (no play at the top).

I hope installing a heat wrapped stainless steel, braided clutch line will help. I’m gonna be installing one towards the end of this month. Removing the plastic bracket against the firewall, for the stock hard clutch line also seems kinda a PITA to do…

I also started getting paranoid/worried about heat soak in general, in the engine bay.. The brakes seem to be fine, I’m guessing, since the pedal stroke and the bore in the master cylinder for the brakes, doesn’t move a ton of fluid at once like the clutch cylinders. I’m planning to relocate the 10-11 heater hoses on my 2010 SS LS3 coupe…

[Turbobitt]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but have a question regarding the braided line.

Does it make sense to eliminate the short metal line going directly into the slave cylinder ? it seems that would also be restrictive. I have mine torn down completely so access to remove the short line is not a problem. It looks like the fitting size is slightly larger going into the slave as well. Maybe the same size as a the Master adapter ? I have not gotten that far to remove the line on the car....

A search on this had not revealed anything so figured I would ask.....

[CamaroCracka]

If you are referring to the feed tube, it flows plenty to actuate the clutch. I left mine in place because I don't want anything flopping around in that bell housing while the engine is spinning 7k. Plus, you don't want to have to pull the transmission if that line gets damaged or fails.

You can order premade AN lines designed for brakes from many vendors, but by the time you order the lines and the fittings, you don't save much, unless things have changed since I did mine. I doubt Tick or anybody else is hand making those lines, but you need the crimped fittings because of the pressure hydraulic lines see.

I would add a remote bleeder while you are in there. The factory tube is no bueno unless you like the feeling of brake fluid rolling down your arm pit.