Can anyone advise on getting out the hole :(

[str8wick3d]

So after finally getting a cam and drag pack of course the first thing I do is go to my local drag strip which is 1/8th mile.

I have a tick cam with stock 3.43 that put down 464hp, 443tq. I have Mickey Thompson Et streets which I'm pretty sure are meant for automatics, 305/45/18. I can't tell if its the tire or the gear that's killing my launch. Or hell it might just be me sense I am still brand new to the setup. Cam was only installed 2 weeks ago and I don't daily this car.

So what happened was I avoided the waterbox and the plan was to just dust the tires off as I was used to with street tires. Well the car pretty much dead hooked and I smelt clutch..... not good. (1 burnout rule so I proceeded)

Gave the car probably 4k rpm and blew the tires off..... Im like how the **** did that just happen when I just dead hooked dumping the clutch.

After trying without waterbox a few times and only getting 1 puney burn out I decided to try the waterbox. drive around and back in. well yes they spun but then they hooked a second later and i spun well past the tree. Figured Id be good to give it a little bit after that so I launched at about 3.5k just slightly slipping the clutch then the Car bogs as if I had traction control on. (no abs fuses are in, so no way thats possible I hope.) So what the hell does my car want?! What can I do different.

my best time slip though I didn't get one on what I think was my quickest run was 8.483 at 89.46 with a 2.264 60ft... this is a pro tree which is probably not helping my reaction time was 1.076

[frankwjr]

psi...

peace

[str8wick3d]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

psi...

peace

dropped the rears to 20psi. others were suggesting lower like 14-16. was to scared with stock rear end. u really think that is it? I have a msd 2 step in the box I haven't installed was hoping that I could figure out something that works with that.

[jc615]

1. Stop,worrying about your R/T
2. If you really want to get the 60' down then yes, lower psi. I'd just be prepared to break something with your current setup. For psi I'd start at 18 and work your way down

[frankwjr]

First...always do a burn out...not a massive one just enough to get sum heat into them...think golf...consistency is key! I do it in 2nd.

Launch RPM will be dependent on track conditions. Goal is to get sum wheel spin outta the hole...just enough that RPM doesn't drop and bog ya out...

below is a pic from a couple of weekends ago..was tryin out my buddies Hoosiers...


16 psi was the final pressure and 6000 RPM was the launch.

this vid was from the same day..lol against a rail...shows my burnout..launch and run...


good luck!

[str8wick3d]

I can hardly get them to spin in 1st not sure how I could do a burn out in 2nd. I'm starting to think even with the fuses pulled there is some traction control happening...

[frankwjr]

that's odd...who tuned it? even with the nannies on I can light'em up in 1st..2nd and 3rd...hell she chirps shiftin into 4th at 6800...

one thing that will help is gears...I stuck with the 3.91's for several reasons...if you plan on draggin a lot then 4.10's or higher would be better...

fyi on my Nitto's psi is currently at 13 and launch rpm typically is 5k or higher...

last item is the rear suspension...any mods? check my sig..these I consider minimum for the 1/4 to address wheel hop(which breaks axles)...lower T/A's and either sub-frame inserts or sum peeps go the high $$$ route with the alum....personal choice IMHO...plus I like spendin my $$$ to go faster....

good luck OP and don't forget the most important improvement...DRIVER MOD...rofl...I know my car is FASTER than me...she's just waitin fer me to get my head outta my arse and get the launch perfected...I know I can get into the 11's and after than I have a cam that I am gonna be puttin in...can't wait..

good luck OP...peace

[str8wick3d]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

that's odd...who tuned it? even with the nannies on I can light'em up in 1st..2nd and 3rd...hell she chirps shiftin into 4th at 6800...

one thing that will help is gears...I stuck with the 3.91's for several reasons...if you plan on draggin a lot then 4.10's or higher would be better...

fyi on my Nitto's psi is currently at 13 and launch rpm typically is 5k or higher...

last item is the rear suspension...any mods? check my sig..these I consider minimum for the 1/4 to address wheel hop(which breaks axles)...lower T/A's and either sub-frame inserts or sum peeps go the high $$$ route with the alum....personal choice IMHO...plus I like spendin my $$$ to go faster....

good luck OP and don't forget the most important improvement...DRIVER MOD...rofl...I know my car is FASTER than me...she's just waitin fer me to get my head outta my arse and get the launch perfected...I know I can get into the 11's and after than I have a cam that I am gonna be puttin in...can't wait..

good luck OP...peace

ya it is very strange to me to, but Then again this is the 1st time I have been to the track in over a year and this time is with real drag tires and a big cam. Lots of learning to do.

[BFASTNOTLAST]

If your not smelling clutch from abusing it out of the hole you aren't doing it right. Don't be scared you won't hurt it. You need RPM and you need to slip it violently!

[acammer]

It's almost always more RPM and more clutch slip than a normal brain with some degree of mechanical empathy is willing to try at first.

You definitely want a burnout with those tires - second gear sure turn them loose easily and give you sufficient wheel speed to heat them up nice and quick. Shouldn't take more than 3-4 seconds.

I recommend that you pick a launch rpm, and continually work it up each pass using a generously slipped clutch release until you encounter significant wheel speed. Then you can back it down a couple hundred rpm and start working on fine tuning things.

Also, you may want to consider using the emergency brake for staging and preloading the driveline. Basically, I roll into the prestage beams and stop with the footbrake. Then I grab my e-brake (keeping my thumb depressed on the release at all times) and hold the car with that and gently creep into the stage beams by bringing in the clutch just enough to roll the car against the lightly held brake. Once I've got the car fully staged I firm up my hold with the e-brake (don't want to roll out of the beams), bring the car to launch rpm (assuming my opponent is staging right along side me - if he's lagging behind I may wait till he gets fully staged) and then I release the clutch just enough till I feel it start to drag. You'll feel the whole car "tighten up" - you're taking all the slack out of the bushings throughout the rear suspension, clutch dampener, axles, driveshaft, rear gear, etc. There are a lot of points for spring-iness in the 5th gen driveline in stock form, so the more you can do to gently preload those components, the less they are going to bounce back when you release the clutch and potentially cause wheelhop. When it's time to launch, I release the brake at a similar rate that I'm releasing the clutch.

It sounds complicated, it's really not. And your stock axles and differential will reward you with many more passes if you don't shock load them with harsh launches, or even worse, wheel hop.

Video for reference - this isn't a real good pass, but you unlike most of my passes which occur in the dark, there is enough light here. It's on a crappy street tire, so you'll want even more RPM than that. This was with the 3.45 stock gears - I've since gone to 4.10's and that changes everything (for the better).

[acammer]

Added bonus in the video clip - I give that Mustang the leave by about 1.5 seconds and still pull him back in on the back half!

[BandRcAMARO]

If you are having trouble doing a burnout in 1st I can almost guarantee that when you drop the clutch and hit the brake you are pressing down too hard. Even a stock M6 will spin them in 2nd no problem. If it bogs not enough rpm or dumped clutch way too quickly. If it spins, dumped clutch way to quickly or too much rpms for the tires to handle. Practice, start at 3.5k rpm and work up from there for a launch. If its a stock clutch it will slip easily and it will smell but hey, if you dont want to hurt your clutch, dont go to the track. Another note is most cammed LS3's are big cams with big power up top not low end, so a 3k launch will bog the car down.

[str8wick3d]

Originally Posted by BandRcAMARO

If you are having trouble doing a burnout in 1st I can almost guarantee that when you drop the clutch and hit the brake you are pressing down too hard. Even a stock M6 will spin them in 2nd no problem. If it bogs not enough rpm or dumped clutch way too quickly. If it spins, dumped clutch way to quickly or too much rpms for the tires to handle. Practice, start at 3.5k rpm and work up from there for a launch. If its a stock clutch it will slip easily and it will smell but hey, if you dont want to hurt your clutch, dont go to the track. Another note is most cammed LS3's are big cams with big power up top not low end, so a 3k launch will bog the car down.

I haven't been hitting the breaks as I usually just like to dust the tires off but with the drag radials looks like I have to use the waterbox and hit the breaks.

[frankwjr]

I never use the brakes for the burn out...once I feel them start to get sticky I immediately clutch in and roll up to the pre-stage..this keeps the heat out of the clutch for the hit...and always let the car(clutch) cool down between runs...the only time I had any probs was tryin to round robin and found out the hard way...

as for launch technique..after the other lane pre-stages I get my rpm's up close to launch rpm...like 4500...and then just barely break the stage beam...then immediately push the clutch in fully while bringing the rpms to to launch... on last yellow I pull my clutch foot almost as fast as I can..just a slight hesitation...hit goes straight to the tires(see above...lulz)..

as I posted in my drag thread...these cars are TOUGH....drive it like ya stole it is not just a catchy sayin....peace