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Old 08-01-2022, 08:53 PM   #1
ride_002000
 
Drives: 2016 F150
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Installed new clutch and my slave cylinder blew apart

So I got my new RXT clutch installed all put back together and then was starting to bleed the clutch. Did a few pumps of the pedal and then heard a pop and fluid started leaking under the car. Took the transmission back out and saw my slave cylinder blown apart. I did replace the plastic release bearing with a billet one from tick, did I not put the retaining cap on good enough? I also didn't use any shims but was I supposed to? Any info would be great
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Old 08-01-2022, 09:35 PM   #2
theflea42
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I don't know about Tick performance, a good friend of mine ran into trouble with them over a transmission for a 2003 Dodge Viper. Because of what he went through, I'll never buy anything from them.
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Old 08-02-2022, 07:43 AM   #3
gtstorey


 
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You always need to check the free play on a hydraulic throwout bearing to make sure it doesn't over extend. I don't know how often shimming is needed on the Camaro, but it should be checked.
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Old 08-02-2022, 07:50 AM   #4
fz4k98
 
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You mentioned it blew apart. Does this mean the retaining clip came off or it damaged somewhere else?
The measurement and shimming are critical for proper clutch engagement but should not have caused it to blow apart. The slave is under compression and when the pedal is pressed it pushes outward (extends) against the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch.

It would most likely be the retaining clip let go.
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Old 08-02-2022, 08:06 AM   #5
ride_002000
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fz4k98 View Post
You mentioned it blew apart. Does this mean the retaining clip came off or it damaged somewhere else?
The measurement and shimming are critical for proper clutch engagement but should not have caused it to blow apart. The slave is under compression and when the pedal is pressed it pushes outward (extends) against the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch.

It would most likely be the retaining clip let go.
When I pulled the transmission the slave was completely apart with the retaining cap off, spring exposed and green boot completely separated from their seals. I took the cap off to install a billet release bearing and I'm wondering if I just didn't get it seated all the way. But I'm also wondering if I need shims and possibly it overextended. I'm going to measure again before I put it back together and hope I can get some accurate numbers, it's tough to get a good measurement under there
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Old 08-02-2022, 10:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
When I pulled the transmission the slave was completely apart with the retaining cap off, spring exposed and green boot completely separated from their seals. I took the cap off to install a billet release bearing and I'm wondering if I just didn't get it seated all the way. But I'm also wondering if I need shims and possibly it overextended. I'm going to measure again before I put it back together and hope I can get some accurate numbers, it's tough to get a good measurement under there
when you measure, practice measuring the same spot until you can get it repeatable. I try to get to less than .008 variation when repeating the same spot for this case. Practice and adjust your measuring technique until you get it down and then it will work better.

I also take and record 3 measurements at each spot and use the middle measurement to reduce variation.

Correct measuring will determine the location on the pedal where the clutch engages and disengages. Its a lot of work but easier than pulling the trans again if wrong.
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Old 08-02-2022, 06:02 PM   #7
ride_002000
 
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Thanks for the input. Once my new slave comes in I'll make sure to measure it all out a million times.
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Old 08-02-2022, 06:05 PM   #8
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Def. Sounds like over extended due to needing shimmed.
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Old 08-03-2022, 12:28 PM   #9
ride_002000
 
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Thanks everyone for the input. I measured everything and even put on the slave cylinder I received from tick and it's about an inch out. I dug out my stock slave from the garbage and yep the tick performance slave is an inch shorter from my stock one so it was over extending and popped. Time to order a new slave and make sure it's the right one. Also going to give tick a call and see what they can do

Last edited by ride_002000; 08-03-2022 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 08-03-2022, 07:32 PM   #10
fz4k98
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
Thanks everyone for the input. I measured everything and even put on the slave cylinder I received from tick and it's about an inch out. I dug out my stock slave from the garbage and yep the tick performance slave is an inch shorter from my stock one so it was over extending and popped. Time to order a new slave and make sure it's the right one. Also going to give tick a call and see what they can do
I am glad to hear you have it figured out but it really sucks that it is due to someone else not doing their job correct that caused all this for you.

Give us an update to let us know how tick took care of you. Not many companies understand good customer relations anymore, especially when they mess up.
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Old 08-06-2022, 05:10 PM   #11
ride_002000
 
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Ok got the new slave cylinder and got everything put together. I was right at .200" for clearance. I put everything back together and the clutch won't fully engage and the pedal is at the very top before it starts to move. So would that mean my slave is too close to the clutch fingers? I'm not sure what the issue is.

Last edited by ride_002000; 08-06-2022 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 08-06-2022, 07:08 PM   #12
fz4k98
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
Ok got the new slave cylinder and got everything put together. I was right at .200" for clearance. I put everything back together and the clutch won't fully engage and the pedal is at the very top before it starts to move. So would that mean my slave is too close to the clutch fingers? I'm not sure what the issue is.
Did Mcleod give a range for the clearance gap? When I did my clutch (spec 3+) I was going for a .150 to .220 range. I ended up going with a .140 based on the shims i had available. This placed the engagement point in the bottom third of pedal travel.

The math is tricky as the diagrams available show the bellhousing attached to the block. on my car the bellhousing is attached to the trans and I needed to measure from the mating surface of the block to the pressure plate fingers and had to redo the equation to get the correct calculation. A .200 calculation should mean the pedal travel should be at the low end of pedal not the top.

The gap calculation is for clutch wear to allow the pressure plate fingers to eventually move rearward and close the measurement up some but still allow the fingers to relax and put pressure on the clutch.

Bsically it sounds like the gap is too small and the pressure plate fingers cannot relax to until at the top of pedal.

If your raw numbers measured are accurate take some time recalculating and diagraming on paper to understand the numbers. A lot easier than trial and error.
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Old 08-06-2022, 10:03 PM   #13
ride_002000
 
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I'm pretty confident in my measurements. I took a lot of measurements trying to be consistent and accurate. From my engine to clutch fingers I got 3.6507" and from a collapsed slave to the transmission edge is 3.4495". Based on a diagram I found from monster on how to measure I subtract the transmission side from engine side. So that would give me -0.2012". So based on that I have not enough clearance and adding a spacer is only going to make that worse, right? I think my slave is pushing on the fingers when the clutch pedal is out. Giving it slight pressure will act like the clutch pedal is slightly depressed. I guess maybe I should go with an aftermarket slave cylinder and see if I can shim it to proper specs? I followed the instructions perfectly on where to place the spacers for the RXT. Not sure if you can remove spacers to help with clearance

Last edited by ride_002000; 08-06-2022 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 08-06-2022, 10:52 PM   #14
fz4k98
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
I'm pretty confident in my measurements. I took a lot of measurements trying to be consistent and accurate. From my engine to clutch fingers I got 3.6507" and from a collapsed slave to the transmission edge is 3.4495". Based on a diagram I found from monster on how to measure I subtract the transmission side from engine side. So that would give me -0.2012". So based on that I have not enough clearance and adding a spacer is only going to make that worse, right? I think my slave is pushing on the fingers when the clutch pedal is out. Giving it slight pressure will act like the clutch pedal is slightly depressed. I guess maybe I should go with an aftermarket slave cylinder and see if I can shim it to proper specs? I followed the instructions perfectly on where to place the spacers for the RXT. Not sure if you can remove spacers to help with clearance
Based on the measurements you stated, 3,6 at engine to fingers, and 3.4 collapsed to trans edge would mean when bolted up the slave would be pressing and collapsing the fingers .2 which would cause the pressure plate to begin releasing the clutch even before pressing the pedal.

The slave has about 1.08 of travel and when everything is bolted together the slave is compressed about 80 to 90 percent already before pushing on the pedal. when you push on the pedal it extends the slave in its travel range and acts on the fingers. Your numbers state the slave has 3.4 distance and the clutch fingers have 3.6 meaning when they are bolted up the slave in collapsed state is collapsing the pressure plate fingers when bolted up. It would be a hard interference. The calculation issue switches when the bellhousing is on the trans.

Assuming the numbers are accurate, there is an interference and most likely the wrong slave as there is no gap and nowhere to shim.
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