14 2SS High Oil Temp

[Jrowland95]

2014 2SS 208k miles.
Coolant temp: 219-230ish
Oil pressure 2-4 bars
Oil temp stays in the mid 220s-230s in the city or slow moving traffic.
Creeps up to 255-260 when I’m rolling to or from work on my 30 mile interstate drive.im not sure if it’ll go higher than 260 because it just creeps up and by the time I gets there, I’m getting off the interstate and then it cools back down. Any ideas?

[Beauwulf]

I believe the oil cooler has a thermostat in the system (to delay cooling until the engine heats up). I'd say that was stuck shut as a first guess. Use a laser temp gun and check the oil cooler for heat. If there's no heat it's likely the thermo.

[Jrowland95]

Got ya, I’ll definitely check it out. It’s just odd that if I’m cruising at 60 in light traffic the oil temp will stay around 230-240. As soon as I pick up the speed to 80-85 the oil temp goes up to 255. I just noticed the high temp 3 days ago so I haven’t been able to tell EXACTLY what conditions cause it, but it seems any driving that keeps the car about 2200 rpm or so, will start raising the heat. As soon as I slow down and cruise at 1900 rpm the heat immediately starts dropping. So like I said it’s odd but at the same time it makes perfect sense, drop the load and it drops the temps. I’ll try to catch a video Friday on the way to work. But tomorrow I’ll check out the oil cooler and come back with an update.

[Beauwulf]

Flow rates through a clogged radiator can be erratic... Also, I'm not sure if the oil cooler on the SS is integrated into the radiator like newer cars. If it is, that can complicate the readings as well.

[acammer]

Lets separate fact from conjecture a bit. The oil heat exchanger is not (directly) thermostatically controlled. It's not a cooler either, it's a heat exchanger - during warm up the (relatively) warmer coolant is routed through the oil heat exchanger in order to speed up the warm up cycle. As things warm up and the coolant thermostat opens the heat exchanger begins transferring heat from the warmer oil into the cooler coolant in order to help control oil temperature. In this configuration there is no external oil cooler, as the engine coolant bears that responsibility. So - there is no oil cooler thermostat, nor external oil cooler to attempt to check temperature on.

Another important to know details is that there is NO oil temperature sensor on the engine. The value delivered to the DIC (dashboard "Driver Information Center") and to the optional 4-pack gauge cluster is derived by the ECM based on an algorithm of various data that likely (I've never seen it specifically published) that includes ambient temperature, coolant temperature, oil pressure, engine RPM, load, and whatever else GM may have in their model. While I would like to believe that they have it very accurately configured I am not sure that it always is. It is very RPM sensitive for sure, fairly small differences in cruising RPM can produce fairly significant differences in oil temperature.

You didn't mention your location or what your ambient temperatures are like, but I would guess that it's pretty warm. Coolant temperature would also be very relevant. Also, what trans, what converter (if auto), and what gear ratio? All factors that would help determine how odd or normal this behavior you're observing might be.

[Jrowland95]

Awesome reply. That actually makes a ton of sense. I was curious how the oil temp fluctuated so quickly, EX: 249F cruising at 1900-2100 rpm and instantly drops to 245ish or lower when I let off the throttle and coast.
I'm in south Louisiana so ambient temps are fairly warm all the time. often 85F+. Right now, we're seeing highs in the 60s-70s.
I've been keeping a close eye on coolant temps and I'm seeing a consistent 219F-221F.
Trans: 6L80
Converter: Circle D 278MM 3200-3400 Hp Series.
Gear Ratio: 3.27:1

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by acammer

Lets separate fact from conjecture a bit. The oil heat exchanger is not (directly) thermostatically controlled. It's not a cooler either, it's a heat exchanger - during warm up the (relatively) warmer coolant is routed through the oil heat exchanger in order to speed up the warm up cycle. As things warm up and the coolant thermostat opens the heat exchanger begins transferring heat from the warmer oil into the cooler coolant in order to help control oil temperature. In this configuration there is no external oil cooler, as the engine coolant bears that responsibility. So - there is no oil cooler thermostat, nor external oil cooler to attempt to check temperature on.

Another important to know details is that there is NO oil temperature sensor on the engine. The value delivered to the DIC (dashboard "Driver Information Center") and to the optional 4-pack gauge cluster is derived by the ECM based on an algorithm of various data that likely (I've never seen it specifically published) that includes ambient temperature, coolant temperature, oil pressure, engine RPM, load, and whatever else GM may have in their model. While I would like to believe that they have it very accurately configured I am not sure that it always is. It is very RPM sensitive for sure, fairly small differences in cruising RPM can produce fairly significant differences in oil temperature.

You didn't mention your location or what your ambient temperatures are like, but I would guess that it's pretty warm. Coolant temperature would also be very relevant. Also, what trans, what converter (if auto), and what gear ratio? All factors that would help determine how odd or normal this behavior you're observing might be.

Awesome info Andrew!! I didn't know some of this you posted. Thanks sir!! You are the guru!!

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Jrowland95

Awesome reply. That actually makes a ton of sense. I was curious how the oil temp fluctuated so quickly, EX: 249F cruising at 1900-2100 rpm and instantly drops to 245ish or lower when I let off the throttle and coast.
I'm in south Louisiana so ambient temps are fairly warm all the time. often 85F+. Right now, we're seeing highs in the 60s-70s.
I've been keeping a close eye on coolant temps and I'm seeing a consistent 219F-221F.
Trans: 6L80
Converter: Circle D 278MM 3200-3400 Hp Series.
Gear Ratio: 3.27:1

Thanks for the additional context - you mentioned several key items that all help drive up that oil temperature. Most obvious - you're in a warm environment. Pair that with running the air-conditioner, and idling in traffic, or traveling at high speeds, and you're going to run pretty warm no matter what you do.

Second - automatic cars in general are tougher to manage thermally, because of the additional heat the transmission produces. An aftermarket converter adds to that heat production. That additional heat warms the engine by proximity, and also by sharing the coolant radiator for transmission cooling duties.

It's also note-worthy that you have what is likely a stock temperature thermostat. This is your low hanging fruit for improvement. The factory thermostat has a 187*F opening point. That typically means you'll see operating temps 15-20*F above that point, and that matches up reasonably against the coolant temperature you're seeing. It would be an easy change to install a 160*F thermostat and take a big chunk of coolant temperature out of the car while cruising down the highway where the radiator is constantly exposed to high-speed air. You can bring that same benefit to the city driving as well with some ECM tuning to engage the fans at lower temperatures.

Dropping the coolant temperature will have a direct impact on the oil temperature, and should knock a similar 20-25*F of temperature out of that at cruising speed. It's likely you'll even note a decline in the transmission temperature, as you'll have a cooler engine and radiator. There is no downside to this mod, other than potentially a immeasurable decrease in economy. The primary reason for these high engine temperatures is emissions compliance.

Let me know if you make some changes and how they work out.

[Jrowland95]

Awesome knowledge. I really appreciate the response. I'll definitely throw a 160* thermostat in and come back with an update.
I do want to note that I have an aftermarket trans fluid cooler mounted Infront of the radiator, sorry I forgot to mention that, so the trans fluid isn't running through the radiator anymore, but I assume this could block some airflow in addition to the air already being warmed by the trans cooler causing some extra coolant heating.
I put a used 6l80 in the car a year or so ago and the trans temp gauge hasn't worked since then and I haven't really been able to find any suggestions toward what the issue is. So, the OBD port is the only way I can read trans temp at the moment (when i barrow a buddy's computer). The week I installed it and the following time I checked the trans was running in nice temp ranges. I've got some work to do on the rear end and then I probably need to tackle the trans temp gauge issue lol. She's got 208k miles (The car not the trans) and I'm trying to get all systems back in check.
Again, I really appreciate the help.

[FASTFATBOY]

The converter needs to be tuned to lock in the the lower gears under part throttle to lower the heat in the trans being pushed into the radiator.

I would verify that oil temp is "real."

Clean the radiator and condenser fins.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Jrowland95

Awesome knowledge. I really appreciate the response. I'll definitely throw a 160* thermostat in and come back with an update.
I do want to note that I have an aftermarket trans fluid cooler mounted Infront of the radiator, sorry I forgot to mention that, so the trans fluid isn't running through the radiator anymore, but I assume this could block some airflow in addition to the air already being warmed by the trans cooler causing some extra coolant heating.
I put a used 6l80 in the car a year or so ago and the trans temp gauge hasn't worked since then and I haven't really been able to find any suggestions toward what the issue is. So, the OBD port is the only way I can read trans temp at the moment (when i barrow a buddy's computer). The week I installed it and the following time I checked the trans was running in nice temp ranges. I've got some work to do on the rear end and then I probably need to tackle the trans temp gauge issue lol. She's got 208k miles (The car not the trans) and I'm trying to get all systems back in check.
Again, I really appreciate the help.

I did this with mine, and as Andrew stated, tune the cooling fans to come on sooner so you get the best performance from the t stat change. I live in central Florida and it gets pretty hot in the summer here. With the 160* stat while cruising at speed I see coolant temps in the 180-184 degree area, and sitting in traffic never see anything over 201-203 degrees, then the fans kick on and she drops back down to 192-194, when I start moving again it goes back down to around 190-192 while in traffic, get back out on the highway and it drops back down to the 184 area. My oil temps never go above 210*.. And I did this 160 t stat swap per Andrew's advice, and it is a blessing.. Thanks Andrew!!

[acammer]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

I did this with mine, and as Andrew stated, tune the cooling fans to come on sooner so you get the best performance from the t stat change. I live in central Florida and it gets pretty hot in the summer here. With the 160* stat while cruising at speed I see coolant temps in the 180-184 degree area, and sitting in traffic never see anything over 201-203 degrees, then the fans kick on and she drops back down to 192-194, when I start moving again it goes back down to around 190-192 while in traffic, get back out on the highway and it drops back down to the 184 area. My oil temps never go above 210*.. And I did this 160 t stat swap per Andrew's advice, and it is a blessing.. Thanks Andrew!!

It's the way to go with ANYTHING that has a performance interest. Certainly in a hot climate like yours it's almost essential.

There has always been some resistance and misunderstanding about the 160*F thermostats. The internet is a real champ at sustaining old wives tails, and there are still plenty of folks that think a 160*F thermostat is going to cause them problems with warm up or accelerated wear.

Fortunately, I've addressed this before with a video. If you're interested but hesitant on the 160*F thermostat, check this out.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by acammer

It's the way to go with ANYTHING that has a performance interest. Certainly in a hot climate like yours it's almost essential.

There has always been some resistance and misunderstanding about the 160*F thermostats. The internet is a real champ at sustaining old wives tails, and there are still plenty of folks that think a 160*F thermostat is going to cause them problems with warm up or accelerated wear.

Fortunately, I've addressed this before with a video. If you're interested but hesitant on the 160*F thermostat, check this out.

You are sooo right Andrew!! And the neat thing is that my fuel consumption stayed the same with the change, no different than the stock stat produced, but the cooler running temps gave the car, and the trans a tad more performance. All good! One of the best mods you can do, especially in heat prone areas like Florida..