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Old 10-06-2025, 12:22 PM   #1
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Which bottom end would you choose for mild build?

So I'm looking at two engines to do a mild H/C build on to run while I rebuild my original and have some questions as to which I should go with. One is a factory GM reman long block with 90K miles, the other is a rebuilt short block with 0 miles, but it uses Hastings rings and Durabond cam bearings. My last build was with a 84K GM block that lasted 7 years of daily driving, so I know how good GM bearings are, but I'd never heard of Hastings or Durabond before now so I'm not sure about their quality. Does anyone have any experience with those and if they're good parts? Which of the two should I go with( both are the same price)? They'll be paired with a GPI SS1 cam and shaved heads along with the standard bulletproofing parts if that matters.
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Old 10-08-2025, 04:51 PM   #2
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I have a friend who is assembling his ls7 with Durabond's, which are a direct GM replacement if I'm not mistaking. He is a mechanic and has over 700hp++ N/A.
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Old 10-09-2025, 04:54 AM   #3
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Durabond is made by Melling so it's a really good bearing. As far as which engine to go with, a zero mile engine is always the better than anything else if properly built and clearances are set up correctly. I would try and get some info on the engine builder to see if he has positive feedback.
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Old 10-10-2025, 11:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morepowerjoe View Post
Durabond is made by Melling so it's a really good bearing. As far as which engine to go with, a zero mile engine is always the better than anything else if properly built and clearances are set up correctly. I would try and get some info on the engine builder to see if he has positive feedback.
It's a machine shop in Houston called EBR he seems specialized in GM engines, mostly LS and LT V8s, only negative reviews I've found of him seem to be down to miscommunication between parties rather than poor workmanship due to some of the workers being Spanish speakers, which doesn't bother me as I can understand enough Spanish to conduct business with out being taken for a ride.
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Old 10-10-2025, 11:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morepowerjoe View Post
Durabond is made by Melling so it's a really good bearing. As far as which engine to go with, a zero mile engine is always the better than anything else if properly built and clearances are set up correctly. I would try and get some info on the engine builder to see if he has positive feedback.

Good to know, I like Melling parts, always found them to be as good or better than the OE GM stuff. Clearances are a concern for me though, the heads that are going on it are shaved .003 so between that and the GPI SS1 cam with VVT retention I don't have much wiggle room on decking for valve clearance.
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Old 10-11-2025, 01:39 AM   #6
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Yeah I don't know about the piston to valve clearance, what I was referring to was the bearings, piston to wall, and ring gaps. When I had my heads milled thirty thousands, I had aftermarket pistons with big valve reliefs. I would check with Andrew at GPI on the ptv clearance for that cam, I'm sure have had thousands of those combos.
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Old 10-19-2025, 07:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
I have a friend who is assembling his ls7 with Durabond's, which are a direct GM replacement if I'm not mistaking. He is a mechanic and has over 700hp++ N/A.

Well I was wrong; gm bearings are GM bearing lol.


Durabond is a good brand.
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Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE

Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me.
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