2010 “oil cooler”

[0stones0]

The pic herein shows both plates of the “oil cooler”, which is generally thought of as a “heater” to bring the oil up to temperature faster.
You can see the plate on the left is smooth across the entire surface, while the plate on the right has multiple machine passes. The red arrow (sloppy, I know) is pointing to where the tooling was cutting and you can actually feel this edge. Now, o-rings or not, this is not going to be a good sealing surface. Probably one of the reasons they leak and we eventually delete them.
My $.02

[InFiD3ViL]

Did you delete yours or reseal and reinstall it?

I am fairly certain mine is leaking now, as it's oil wet on the cooler itself. I don't get under the car as much as I'd like, so I haven't confirmed yet. I would be interested in deleting mine, as I have little tolerance for a leaky engine, especially on this car. Funny thing is that I had zero leaks until I replaced the O-rings when I did an engine swap a few years back. Made it 153k miles with no leaks from it, but of course I had to touch it.

[J35Y2]

Yeah, I've mentioned this to countless folks since I got my car with barely 17k miles on it, and it was already leaking to the point of slinging oil and dripping onto the ground. Basically, if it isn't leaking between the first 3-5 engine oil changes, you should generally be safe. As a safety measure, I usually tell people to tighten the bolts anyways, as they're sometimes loose in a few cases.

[J35Y2]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Did you delete yours or reseal and reinstall it?

I am fairly certain mine is leaking now, as it's oil wet on the cooler itself. I don't get under the car as much as I'd like, so I haven't confirmed yet. I would be interested in deleting mine, as I have little tolerance for a leaky engine, especially on this car. Funny thing is that I had zero leaks until I replaced the O-rings when I did an engine swap a few years back. Made it 153k miles with no leaks from it, but of course I had to touch it.

If you made it over 150k+ miles with the factory oil cooler before it started leaking, I would probably bet that replacing the o-rings in the heat "exchanger" and the gasket at the oil pan feed, would probably fix it. The main issue is for the folks that have had the issue from the start, where replacing those didn't help them whatsoever.

I got so fed up with mine, and didn't have the parts or allowance to delete the stock oil cooler assembly at the time, so I basically opened apart the heat exchanger, cleaned it as much as I could, and then lined the entire surface with black Permatex RTV gasket maker. It ended up actually working, although I believe I had a friend try this and mess up, since he didn't clean his surfaces and prep them, and he also didn't let the gasket maker cure for long enough...

I suggest for anyone who wants to try the gasket maker option, to use something like 90-minute setting, unless you have 24+ hrs to wait around or another means of transportation. The gasket maker actually cured so well, that I couldn't pry apart the heat exchanger "block", when it came time for me to want to dissemble it to dump out the remaining oil and coolant.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Did you delete yours or reseal and reinstall it?

I am fairly certain mine is leaking now, as it's oil wet on the cooler itself. I don't get under the car as much as I'd like, so I haven't confirmed yet. I would be interested in deleting mine, as I have little tolerance for a leaky engine, especially on this car. Funny thing is that I had zero leaks until I replaced the O-rings when I did an engine swap a few years back. Made it 153k miles with no leaks from it, but of course I had to touch it.

Deleted it.
So far, I see no difference in temp on the “guestimate” gauge.
In cooler weather, I do plan on a longer idle time to get a little heat in the oil.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Deleted it.
So far, I see no difference in temp on the “guestimate” gauge.
In cooler weather, I do plan on a longer idle time to get a little heat in the oil.

No plans to get an air to oil cooler setup then? As long as you’re not tracking the car or driving it excessively during the crazy summer heat, I think you should be fine, more or less. Deleting the stock oil cooler and leaving it as is, is more of a “downgrade” per say.

Also, if you have the stock cats, warmup time will be fine and less than if you had no cats or high flow cats (usually placed further away with long tube headers). I guess if you had high flow cats to shorty headers, it would help with the warmup as well, just not as much as the stock setup with all 4 cats. I noticed this after idling for prolonged periods of time, my oil temps would climb super quick, and my trans temp would be higher than normal or while cruising/driving.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

No plans to get an air to oil cooler setup then? As long as you’re not tracking the car or driving it excessively during the crazy summer heat, I think you should be fine, more or less. Deleting the stock oil cooler and leaving it as is, is more of a “downgrade” per say.

Also, if you have the stock cats, warmup time will be fine and less than if you had no cats or high flow cats (usually placed further away with long tube headers). I guess if you had high flow cats to shorty headers, it would help with the warmup as well, just not as much as the stock setup with all 4 cats. I noticed this after idling for prolonged periods of time, my oil temps would climb super quick, and my trans temp would be higher than normal or while cruising/driving.

No tracking planned. Haven’t looked all the way into a cooler yet. The leaky stock “cooler” delete seems like an upgrade, to me.

[0stones0]

Temps on oil the same as before the delete. Coolant appears down a couple degrees from 192 to 190. Being as the “cooler” was right next to the header, doesn’t surprise me.
Got back under the car just to give another look see and she’s bone dry. Liking that.