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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2010 IOM SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 659
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What type of buffing machine is better?
Actually, I'm not really looking for a brand type, but the type of unit you use. Is a store bought buffer made for buffing better, or would you use a standard home power drill with buffer wheel attached to it?
I only ask because of the two buffers I've tried in the past, including the one I bought today, don't seem to have enough power. It never seems like it's actually turning, just a lot of vibrating. And even less if I push down to hard. Is a power drill a much better thing to us when tring to get rid of those pesky minor scratches?
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#2 |
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Member
Drives: 2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Where you vacation...Tahoe
Posts: 928
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nonono buffing wheels.
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#3 |
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Detailing Connoisseur
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2LT RS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lakewood, ca
Posts: 1,131
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Adam's has 4" spot buffing pads available Here. They attach to a drill, he has videos on how to use them properly
I usually use the porter cable for my buffing needs, but I haven't tried the spot buffing pads.
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#4 | |
![]() Drives: 2014 Impala Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Grove City, OH
Posts: 607
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Quote:
There are videos to show you how it works. Don't use a power drill!
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2010 2SS/RS
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#5 |
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So Cal Camaro5 Race Team
Drives: '10 SS/RS, '06 HHR, '70 El Camino Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 2,589
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You do not want to use a drill attachment unless it's just to do your wheels. I would suggest a DA (dual action) such as a Porter Cable or Meguiars G110. This machine is safe to use even for a novice and cannt swirl or burn your paint as a high speed buffer can if you are not trained in it's use
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TEAM L99 - So Cal Camaro5 Race Team #27
9/5/09 Purchased #36962 Black 1SS/RS L99 "E-TCKT" Base Dyno 328hp/341tq @BBK meet Mods to Date: Window Tint 5% & 15%, ACC P13W Lighting, Adaptive DRL Harness, Ghost Armor, Lloyds "SS" Mats, Dash Plaque, Flowmaster Outlaw Exhaust, Drake Front Bowtie Delete, Stealth 3457 Chrome/Mirror Signal Bulbs, Grant Revolutions Steering Wheel, PFADT Sport Springs, Sway Bars, End Links, Trailing Arms, 4 Wheel Alignment, Hurst Auto Shifter and Paddle Shifter, Satin Black Rear Tail Light Bezels |
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#6 |
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Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Marysville, Ohio
Posts: 12,996
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I'm going to get he Porter Cable from adamspolishes.com
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#7 |
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Virologist in the making
Drives: 2010 VR SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: El Paso TX
Posts: 2,865
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You need a random orbital. If you can grab the disc where the polisher goes and spin it by hand, you're good. Get a porter cable. I have a little cheapo one I bought from autozone for about $15 a few years ago, works just fine. If you use a drill, I'll kill you and take your camaro to a battered vehicles shelter. Just sayin'.
(;
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Victory Red 1SS/RS Ordered - 8/4/09 & Joined Camaro5.com family
6000, Delivered to the customer - 12/21/09 ![]() |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2LT Blk IOM stripes IO leather Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 568
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yeah im also getting a PC buffer from adamspolishes.com along with the polishes of course hhaha
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#9 |
![]() Drives: . Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Santa Clara
Posts: 461
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if you are just starting, dual action would be the way to go... PC and Flex are good brands to start...
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#10 |
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SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 5,298
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My PC works great!
I use it on the wheels too!
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; |
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#11 |
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baysinger
Drives: 2010 IOM M6 SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Shreveport, Louisiana
Posts: 76
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NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER use a DRILL. Use a PC
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#12 | |
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Moderator
Drives: '99 Camaro SS #1392 Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newtown, Pa.
Posts: 3,982
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Quote:
I'd recommend a random-orbital buffer for polishing. And, I'd be very careful, ie; "push down hard". There should be no reason to do this. If you use the proper waxes/polishes, they will "do the work" of creating a great finish. IMO, you NEVER should apply much pressure when using any buffer. Ed |
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#13 |
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Detailing Connoisseur
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2LT RS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lakewood, ca
Posts: 1,131
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Wow ya'll are super against spot buffing... Since my last visit here I have purchased the spot buffing pad from Adams.. and USED A DRILL! So long as your experienced with a rotary device as opposed to a R-O, you shouldnt have any issues. There is a chance of "burn" if your running your drill at its full potential and holding it in 1 area. If you concentrate on what your doing, don't "over buff" one area for long periods of time you'll be fine.
I finally got the scratch that has been plaguing me for a month out of my camaro! My PC pads were just too large to fit into the crevice where the little bastard was hiding. Proper pads+product+experience... Yes, I still have clear coat on the car
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#14 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: SuperCharged 2SS/RS IOM MN6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 5,094
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