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Old 12-12-2010, 02:18 PM   #1
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RX catch can and VaraRam - alt mounting

Without going into too much detail here are some pictures of the VaraRam hold-downs and a different mounting option for the RX catch can I got from SC2150.

Key points on the RX mounting: heads of ss button heads to fit in the groove of the washer bottle, ss washers used to level the the can because of the curve of the bottle neck, hose clamps are being held in place on each edge by the ss washers, L bracket not only is the "glue" holing everything together but the bottom of it rests on one of the bottle neck molded supports. However, this can be installed without the L bar and if one doesn't care about the can sitting level, a lot of washers can be eliminated as well. After the assembly, I taped the can off the can with blue painters tape and sprayed the hardware with Plasti-dip.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:00 PM   #2
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Looks great!
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndeedSS1 View Post
Without going into too much detail here are some pictures of the VaraRam hold-downs and a different mounting option for the RX catch can I got from SC2150.

Key points on the RX mounting: heads of ss button heads to fit in the groove of the washer bottle, ss washers used to level the the can because of the curve of the bottle neck, hose clamps are being held in place on each edge by the ss washers, L bracket not only is the "glue" holing everything together but the bottom of it rests on one of the bottle neck molded supports. However, this can be installed without the L bar and if one doesn't care about the can sitting level, a lot of washers can be eliminated as well. After the assembly, I taped the can off the can with blue painters tape and sprayed the hardware with Plasti-dip.
Dont mean to be an A$$ but why so far away from the original mounting point?

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Old 12-12-2010, 04:20 PM   #4
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^^^ not being an a$$. It's a valid question.

There are two reasons. First as SC2150 pointed out cooling the vapor assists in helping the oil to drop out of suspension. I know, due to distance and can location, that I'm taking as much advantage of the potential for cooling as possible. Reason two, is I have arthritis in both hands and this location with the 1/4 turn ball valve makes draining easy. It's just too crowded over in the orginal spot. It also gives people other options to explore.

I assume you cut your RX bracket and drilled some new holes?
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:21 PM   #5
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Looks great!
Thanks Rick. I was a bit hesitant to post this, but it was requested so I did.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:36 PM   #6
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^^^ not being an a$$. It's a valid question.

There are two reasons. First as SC2150 pointed out cooling the vapor assists in helping the oil to drop out of suspension. I know, due to distance and can location, that I'm taking as much advantage of the potential for cooling as possible. Reason two, is I have arthritis in both hands and this location with the 1/4 turn ball valve makes draining easy. It's just too crowded over in the orginal spot. It also gives people other options to explore.

I assume you cut your RX bracket and drilled some new holes?
I drilled one new hole and that's all it was for my set up but i concede the point if it works that is all that matter's.

Looks good too.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:57 PM   #7
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I drilled one new hole and that's all it was for my set up but i concede the point if it works that is all that matter's.

Looks good too.
Thanks. There are many ways to do things, your post may have been the first I've see in a pretty close to the normal position. This may be the route others will want to go, for the simple fact it's quick and easy. So you didn't shorten the bracket at all?
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:18 PM   #8
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Nice install (I think I already said that, lol). How long are you lines to the can? Any worries with the vapor condensing in the PCV to catch can line (it looks slightly up hill after the 90 degree bend to get over the rad)? If you do get condensation in the line, would it impede the performance of the PCV system?
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:14 PM   #9
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Nice install (I think I already said that, lol). How long are you lines to the can? Any worries with the vapor condensing in the PCV to catch can line (it looks slightly up hill after the 90 degree bend to get over the rad)? If you do get condensation in the line, would it impede the performance of the PCV system?
lol, thanks for casting doubt in my mind. I hope Tracy sees this and comments in the thread. My other setup did essentially the same thing going over the top of the throttle body. Since this is a pull through, I would hope that the vapor wouldn't be able to turn to liquid that quickly.

I think there is about 10 ft total of hose. It's probably not visable in the picture but I used inline couplers on each line close to midway across the top of the VaraRam. I should be able to check both lines for oil or pooling pretty easily.

And again thanks for the questions. It keeps us thinking.

Edit: I believe I can raise the lines enough to prevent any pooling, if need be.
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:30 PM   #10
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Thanks. There are many ways to do things, your post may have been the first I've see in a pretty close to the normal position. This may be the route others will want to go, for the simple fact it's quick and easy. So you didn't shorten the bracket at all?
No all i did was add a hole closer to the bend in the bracket to give you room to mount it in the car, Going to see how much oil comes out next week end it time for an oil change.
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:31 PM   #11
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We have done even further remote locations over the years w/out seeing any negative results. In theory it is possible, but in practice it hasen't reared its head yet. Quite common to mount them in behind the front fascia as well without issue.

Good question though!
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:14 PM   #12
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We have done even further remote locations over the years w/out seeing any negative results. In theory it is possible, but in practice it hasen't reared its head yet. Quite common to mount them in behind the front fascia as well without issue.

Good question though!
Thanks for that. Nomad planted the seed of doubt and I knew I would lay awake thinking about it. So...

btw Nomad I'm glad you pointed out the dip in the hoses. It's hard to tell from the pictures but there is a gradual rise with no place for potential pooling. It was 2 degrees on my way in this morning. Condensation could happen easily.
Tracy do you know how extreme cold effects the check valve operation?
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:16 PM   #13
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No all i did was add a hole closer to the bend in the bracket to give you room to mount it in the car, Going to see how much oil comes out next week end it time for an oil change.
Cool that you didn't have to move it much at all... and let us know how much oil and how many miles.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:35 AM   #14
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Checkvalve works fine in the cold as long as the engine compartment gets up to a decent temp, but since moisture will accumulate in the can with the oil if you try to drain it when below freezing outside it may not drain.

On the Nissan Titan trucks (these are installed on most every car & light truck you could imagine) in below freezing climates that have mounted them in remote locations several have found this to be a minor issue. Just drain when the engine has been warm and all is good.
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