10-19-2023, 12:01 PM | #1 |
Just Bought a Low Mileage 2010 Camaro SS - Where Do I Go From Here
After wanting one since 2009, I finally was fortunate enough to be able to get my dream car, a 2010 Camaro 2SS M6, back in May. It only had 24,000 miles, and seemed to be in immaculate mechanical and physical condition. Since then, I’ve put about 5000 miles on it. My only complaint is that there is a clunking or grinding noise towards the rear end whenever turning at low speeds.
My question, what should I do maintenance-wise on it? This is my first time buying a pre-owned car that’s 14 years old. Despite the low mileage is there anything critical I should do? I’ve obviously changed the oil straight away after buying it, but other than that, everything is original from when it was built in 2009. Tires (and presumably battery) have been replaced at some point by previous owner, but they still look good at the moment. Thanks for the advice! |
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10-19-2023, 02:13 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: May 2019
Location: Hki.Finland
Posts: 1,073
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Rear end oil,brake fluid,steering fluid,coolant.
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10-19-2023, 02:31 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,283
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My first guess on clunking noise would be swaybar connector endlinks.
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10-20-2023, 01:05 PM | #4 |
Thanks! Rear diff fluid was next on the list. I’ll be sure to flush the brake fluid, power steering, and coolant as well. Anything need to be done as far as trans fluid on a manual? I’ve heard varied responses, but I’m thinking it wouldn’t be a bad idea based on age alone.
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10-20-2023, 01:10 PM | #5 |
Good call on the sway bar end links, I didn’t think about that, but that sounds more apt. I was afraid it may be an axle. I took a look at the end links and don’t see any leaking grease or anything (though I imagine it’s dried up after 14 years regardless). Mounting hardware looks rusty, but otherwise look to be in good shape. I’ll probably change them regardless, because they’re inexpensive.
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10-20-2023, 01:26 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: New York
Posts: 1,434
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Also look into changing the plug wires. When i got my 2012 it was about 8 years old and changed the plugs and wires just in case and luckily that i did since 2 wires fell apart when trying to pull them off. They were dry rotted.
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2012 Camaro 2SS/RS - CSP Custom Cam 232/240 .615/.615 113 +3, Texas speed CNC heads, FTI billet triple disc converter, K&N cai, Katech ported TB, GPI Ported/rod modded manifold, Texas speed 1 7/8 headers, HFC, Flowmaster 2 chambers with x pipe, Mishimoto CC, MSD wires, Roto fab washer relocation, tru cool 40k trans cooler, apex scoop, Pedders extreme coil overs and much more!!
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10-20-2023, 01:32 PM | #7 |
Good idea, much appreciated. I’m trying to get this thing back to as close to it was in 2010. I want to make sure I cover all the bases since it’s the first time I’ve bought something with as many years as this has, and I’d like to preserve it. I sadly have no prior owner service history since it was bought from a dealer and they weren’t very helpful. I’m assuming nothing was done on it since it was originally purchased though.
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10-21-2023, 02:54 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: May 2019
Location: Hki.Finland
Posts: 1,073
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10-21-2023, 07:49 AM | #9 | |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,603
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For the manual V8 transmission, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF ("multiple vehicle formula" on front of bottle). Well, the ZL1 has it since it's a manual. But it has had no drawbacks since changing it out.
Whatever you do, don't use Dexron VI. You COULD just go with GM 88861800 manual transmission fluid as replacement, but it's simply a revamped ATF (Dex III) with different additive package for use in manual transmissions. According to Tremec themselves, you don't really NEED to change it, unless it's been raced a lot or lots of HD use to get the temps up. From their FAQ: Quote:
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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10-22-2023, 06:25 AM | #10 |
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Red Line D4 in the SS Tremec 6 speed. Went through this a nearly a decade and a half ago (got my 2010 SS on 6/17/2009). Car has been used on the street, road courses and autocrossed.
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RJT 2SS/RS, AAM 3.70's, MTI Sway Bars, Shifter & SS brake lines, ZLI calipers, rotors & pads, BMR Trailing & Toe Arms, rear cradle & diff bushes, Pedders XA's, Camber/Toe eccentrics, Radius arm inserts, GTO clutch reservoir, LS9 cam, Comp valve springs, Melling 10296 oil pump, CR5 timing chain, LS6 damper, CAI Cold Air Intake, ARH LT headers w/HF cats, GMPP touring axle back, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Forgeline 20x9.5 & 20x11 DS3 whls, 275/40/20 & 315/35/20 tires, 2011 Convertible spoiler, 1LE front spoiler, Lloyd "SS" Floor Mats, GM Camaro Trunk Mat, wrapped console & Grant steering wheel.
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10-27-2023, 08:51 PM | #11 |
Thanks for the advice! I’m going to try and find service history for the car to see what has been done recently (if anything). I’ll be taking it in for an oil change and rear diff fluid change in a week or two. I’ll try and get a video of the clunking/grinding noise from the rear end as well.
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10-27-2023, 08:57 PM | #12 |
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Diff fluid
When the differential fluid is changed there is an additive that needs to be put in. If it is not you get clunking noises when you turn a corner. I don't recall what it is called.
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There's more to life than gas mileage
LS3, Whipple, Custom Comp Cam, springs, pushrods, timing set, CAI intake, Apex cold air scoop, Doug Thorley TRI-Y headers, Billet Custom Products baffled Valve covers, Mighty Mouse Catch can, ADM FPCM, ZL1 fuel pump, MSD boost-a-pump, Hex Vent hood vents, ProSport gauges(fuel pressure, AFR, Boost), Corsa, 100 cell Cats. Jannetty remote tuned, Pfadt trailing arms, all parts user installed. No Dyno yet. Manual trans. 3.45 gears. |
10-28-2023, 02:42 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: May 2019
Location: Hki.Finland
Posts: 1,073
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I use this.
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10-29-2023, 07:43 AM | #14 |
I use Amsoil for the rear diff in my ZL1
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