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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS RJT L99 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 1,242
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Magnuson SC Fuel Block leak problem...
To all,
I have had my L99 in storage for the winter, every couple weeks I would start the car up and let it get to temp. The day after doing this, I would go into my shop and smell a very strong gas smell but could never find out where it was coming from. I never really could smell anything driving the car but when walking around the car I could always get a wiff of gas smell. Well, last week I really looked into the issue. Finally found the problem. There were 1 to 2 drops per second, dripping out from the bottom of the fuel block which is mounted on the passenger side fuel rail. It is dropping between the intake manifold and head and evaporating when the car is warm but would continue to drip until fuel pressure dropped in the system which was resulting in the fuel smell the day after. Today I pulled the fuel block and replaced the O-ring and reinstalled the block. The original o-ring looked perfect, no nicks or cuts of any kind but still figured that must be what it was. NOPE!!! Got everything bolted back on and turned the key in the ignition to the on position to just wind up the fuel pump without starting the engine. Still dripping just as before........ Pulled the block off again and this time noticed the plug screw on the bottom side of the fuel block. Could the leak be coming from this instead of the o-ring??? HOW IN THE HELL would one get under the block with it in stalled ot see if the leak is actually coming from the o-ring or from the plug screw? The plug is tight, in fact I could not break it loose. Was just going to pull the plug out and reseal it to make sure it was not the problem but could not get it loose. So, I need to find out where the leak is coming from, o-ring or plug screw. Any ideas on how to see which is which??? Got to get this fixed, getting time to get her out for spring!!! Thanks for your time and help.
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Fiftydriver
2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages. More to come!! |
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#2 |
![]() Drives: 2010 ss 1997 lt1 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: whitby ont
Posts: 58
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Fiftydriver;4586403]To all,
I have had my L99 in storage for the winter, every couple weeks I would start the car up and let it get to temp. The day after doing this, I would go into my shop and smell a very strong gas smell but could never find out where it was coming from. I never really could smell anything driving the car but when walking around the car I could always get a wiff of gas smell. Well, last week I really looked into the issue. Finally found the problem. There were 1 to 2 drops per second, dripping out from the bottom of the fuel block which is mounted on the passenger side fuel rail. It is dropping between the intake manifold and head and evaporating when the car is warm but would continue to drip until fuel pressure dropped in the system which was resulting in the fuel smell the day after. Today I pulled the fuel block and replaced the O-ring and reinstalled the block. The original o-ring looked perfect, no nicks or cuts of any kind but still figured that must be what it was. NOPE!!! Got everything bolted back on and turned the key in the ignition to the on position to just wind up the fuel pump without starting the engine. Still dripping just as before........ Pulled the block off again and this time noticed the plug screw on the bottom side of the fuel block. Could the leak be coming from this instead of the o-ring??? HOW IN THE HELL would one get under the block with it in stalled ot see if the leak is actually coming from the o-ring or from the plug screw? The plug is tight, in fact I could not break it loose. Was just going to pull the plug out and reseal it to make sure it was not the problem but could not get it loose. So, I need to find out where the leak is coming from, o-ring or plug screw. Any ideas on how to see which is which??? Got to get this fixed, getting time to get her out for spring!!! Thanks for your time and help.[/QUOTE] I had the same problem with the first fuel block on my maggie, very annoying I changed the O ring a half dozen times.The problem is with the fuel block,it,s been machined to tight to the recess on the O ring forcing the O ring down causing it to leak PITA.I talked to magnuson and they were pretty quick to send another fuel block with no issues and no charge.Hope this helps
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Last edited by cyber g ss; 03-04-2012 at 09:32 PM. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS RJT L99 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 1,242
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Thanks for your reply but that is not where my leak is coming from. Its either coming from the seal between the fuel block and fuel rail or its coming from the plug screw on the bottom of the fuel block.
I pulled the fuel block this weekend and degreased the lowerplug screw. I wanted to just remove the plug screw, reseal it to remove it as a possible leak. If it still leaked when I reinstalled the block, it would obviously be the o-ring that seals between the block and fuel rail. Since I could not get the plug out, I simply took some high strength, high temp epoxy and filled the recess on the bottom of the block where the plug screw is at. My thinking here is not a permanent fix although I am sure it would hold for quite a while. It would at least hold long enough to tell me if the plug hole was the source of the leak or if it was the O-ring. Obviously, if the leak stopped, it would be clear it is the plug screw. Just trying to eliminate variables one at a time. If it is the plug screw it will be a simple fix. As I am a professional firearm manufacturer, I have all the metal machining skills and tooling to mill out the plug screw, retap and install a larger, stronger plug screw that will certainly seal properly. If this does not solve the problem, I will have to give Magnuson a call and see if they can get me a new fuel block.
__________________
Fiftydriver
2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages. More to come!! |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2008 Heritage 300C Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,911
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Idk if this has anything to do with anything....but I was always told that if you store your car to leave it sit there during the winter, and to NOT start it every week or every other week, ect. Has something to do with it expanding and contracting dramatically due to the temperature change.
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2010 ss 1997 lt1 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: whitby ont
Posts: 58
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Your welcome! hope you figure it out sooner than later.I would still call magnuson and tell them i had a fuel block leak.They will send you one no questions asked and you could still troubleshoot your problem while a new fuel block make,s it,s way to your door.Good Luck
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#6 |
![]() Drives: 01 silverado 2010 2SS/RS Sim Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MA
Posts: 211
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I had the same problem right out of the box , when I installed the fuel block it leaked , took it off to check the O ring everything looked good so back on it went still leaked took it back off inspected it again still looked good so I removed the plug from the bottem of the fuel block cleaned the plug added thread sealer and no more leak .
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,553
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It's not that uncommon of an issue. Contact Magnuson if you haven't already. I've seen two that had leaks, one by the plug and the other was a bad seam on the block itself. Both times Magnuson shipped replacement rails and the issue was resolved. It's bad QC on their vendors part that sourced the part to them. It sucks, but they've been pretty good at taking care of the issues.
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS RJT L99 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 1,242
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Thanks guys, I will get ahold of Magnuson and see if they can get me a new block headed my way.
Thanks for all your replies and time, most appreciated.
__________________
Fiftydriver
2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages. More to come!! |
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#9 | |
![]() Drives: Anything Supercharged Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Regards, Jon Barrett |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS RJT L99 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 1,242
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It was the plug screw on the bottom of the block. My epoxy filler stopped the leak but then I took a 75 mile drive and when I got home, the leak was starting again, I am not suprised and the heat from the engine is very hard on this epoxy. Still, the leak is a drop every 10 seconds or so, not 1-2 drops per second.
Now need to decide if I want to just fix the problem in my shop or get a new block from Magnuson....... Anyway, good to know where the leak was coming from and DAMN was it nice to get the car back on the road. Last time was the end of October!!!
__________________
Fiftydriver
2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages. More to come!! |
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