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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 373
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How dirty can the fluid get before a flush?
Related to my last thread but I believe warrants it's own. Today I got a flush at the local mechanic, not with the scanner tool but the "old fashioned" way. Fluid went from brown to yellow. It is DOT4
So I'm done with paying alot to get a little. I think now is a good time to invest in one of those pumps to pressurize the system, and in a few months I'll do a super-douche and run fluid through untill it's clear. I want to be sure the rest of the clutch junk is out of it now that my clutch reservoir is seperate. Or... Am I just chasing a white dragon? Will it never be clear even with a fresh flush? I'm a bit anal if you can't tell lol. Short of the $4.5k tech-II is the pump bottle pressure system the way to go for the at home do it yourselfer? This is how it is now
Last edited by GlennP; 12-13-2011 at 11:00 PM. |
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#2 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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Functionally, your fluid should be good to go.
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#3 |
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What should I name my car
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS IOM Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 786
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That's not bad... you should have seen mine when I flushed it after only 2 drag days, and 3 autocross events... You couldn't even see through it. I drained it into empty water bottles and it was gross.
__________________
Performance: ARH 2"/"3 headers + ARH 3" HF catback system, SS brake lines, hawk HP+ pads, motul RBF 600 fluid, K&N CAI (w/custom insulation), plug wires, air scoop, Hurst STS, Pedders Track II suspension, 18x10 wheels, 295/45/18 Nitto NT05s
Looks: powder coated iom calipers, LED foglights w/ always on harness, custom painted bowties, window tint, smoke tinted tail lights etc, oem gfx w/ custom outlets, painted taillight bezels, all weather trunk mat |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 373
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So basically, that's as good as its going to get after a flush?
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#5 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: AK
Posts: 2,377
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When I change suspension fluid it ALWAYS comes out dirty with some shock absorbers, no matter if it's in there a week or a year, due to the metal fittings that are inside that oxidize or small particulates that come off due to moving parts. At some point it is chasing a ghost, but better quality (annodized, etc) parts can minimize this. Brakes are relatively simple, and fluid breakdown/contamination/air are your biggest enemies. In my experience it's obvious when you are getting air in your brake lines, although it can sometimes be a needle-in-a-haystack to track down where the leak is and sometimes requires all new fittings and lines. A lot of times this is diagnosed as "contamination/bad fluid" by those that are not as experienced, but pedal travel and feel should indicate whether or not there's air in there, and brake fluid should not break down after a few months, unless you're using it for racing.
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#7 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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You might be wound a little tight on this one. That fluid looks pretty good! The best thing you can do for the longevity of your systems that need their fluid flushed periodically is to use quality fluids. The 5 dollar bottle of DOT4 on the shelf at autozone will absolutely work, but generally have lower boiling points than high quality brake fluids do. The high quality fluids generally last longer and resist breaking down longer than most cheaper fluids.
That being said, that fluid pictured looks good to go. Run it and don't think twice, you're never going to get a clear fluid to appear as completely clear after a little bit of use. |
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