Switching to Hawk Ceramic Brake pads, question... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Six.Two SC · 07-15-2014, 11:43 PM

Have about 3,500 miles on the '14 ZL1. Do I need to re-surface the rotors or just slap the pads on? Anything to create the least amount of dust.....

HDRDTD · 07-16-2014, 12:10 AM

No need to re-surface the rotors unless you have groves in them. At a mere 3,500 miles, you should be good to go.

Make sure to follow the Hawk break-in procedure.

shibbs · 07-16-2014, 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

Make sure to follow the Hawk break-in procedure.

What he said.

fastforwarddad · 07-16-2014, 01:30 AM

I was told that the front zl1 rotors were not turnable, maybe someone can confirm or disclaim

*007 · 07-16-2014, 08:29 AM

Simply lightly sand with rotor sander or emory cloth. Done.

Six.Two SC · 07-16-2014, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

Make sure to follow the Hawk break-in procedure.

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Does this sound right?

mmarx82 · 07-16-2014, 10:54 AM

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.

For automatics, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.

For manual, you can park the vehicle but do not apply the parking brake for the cooling stage.

After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.

mmarx82 · 07-16-2014, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Six.Two SC

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Does this sound right?

This is directly from their website so yes that is correct, I prefer my method better though although just about the same.

Six.Two SC · 07-16-2014, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmarx82

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.

For automatics, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.

For manual, you can park the vehicle but do not apply the parking brake for the cooling stage.

After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.

I will do this. Thanks.

JDP Sales · 07-16-2014, 12:15 PM

Be sure to clean the rotors with brake cleaner and some sand paper to remove any old pad material before installing and bedding the new pads. Then follow the bed in procedure as posted above. It's very important to follow these steps to ensure the best performance and have them be noise-free.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Sven59 · 07-16-2014, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Be sure to clean the rotors with brake cleaner and some sand paper to remove any old pad material before installing and bedding the new pads. Then follow the bed in procedure as posted above. It's very important to follow these steps to ensure the best performance and have them be noise-free.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

I have some friends with SSs that are getting the noise, is that because of the break-in? I was thinking of putting them on my Z until I heard theirs squealing. And with brakes isn't it a brake-in?

JDP Sales · 07-16-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sven59

I have some friends with SSs that are getting the noise, is that because of the break-in? I was thinking of putting them on my Z until I heard theirs squealing. And with brakes isn't it a brake-in?

The people that have issues with noise either did not prep the rotors or did not bed in the brakes properly. You can also get noise when the pads have been over-heated and become glazed, or if there is not enough lube on the back of the pads, pins etc.. When properly installed you should have no issues with noise.

Technically you could call it a break-in procedure, but the goal is really to bed-in the pad material into the rotor, so bed-in/break-in/burnishing all the same.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Sven59 · 07-16-2014, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

The people that have issues with noise either did not prep the rotors or did not bed in the brakes properly. You can also get noise when the pads have been over-heated and become glazed, or if there is not enough lube on the back of the pads, pins etc.. When properly installed you should have no issues with noise.

Technically you could call it a break-in procedure, but the goal is really to bed-in the pad material into the rotor, so bed-in/break-in/burnishing all the same.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Thanks Tyler,
I was joking about the (brake)-in. So, I am guessing some hard braking through some twisties could result in some noise??

JDP Sales · 07-16-2014, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sven59

Thanks Tyler,
I was joking about the (brake)-in. So, I am guessing some hard braking through some twisties could result in some noise??

I see what you did there, but where was the smiley?!?

Yeah, if you plan to do any aggressive driving where you could create a lot of heat with the brakes, then I'd advise against the Ceramics and go with the HPS pads. The HPS pads still dust less than stock but have a better initial bite and hold up better to heat.

The Ceramics are really meant for show cars and daily drivers that don't see much, if any abuse.

Best regards,

Tyler
8883-08-6007

07-15-2014, 11:43 PM	#1
Six.Two SC Drives: 2018 Summit White Camaro 1SS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 352	Switching to Hawk Ceramic Brake pads, question... Have about 3,500 miles on the '14 ZL1. Do I need to re-surface the rotors or just slap the pads on? Anything to create the least amount of dust.....

07-16-2014, 08:29 AM	#5
*007 Drives: Getaway Special Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Globe Trotter - CIU Posts: 398	Simply lightly sand with rotor sander or emory cloth. Done. __________________ Sip:

07-16-2014, 10:54 AM	#7
mmarx82 Drives: '12 ZL1 #1609 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Georgia Posts: 1,762	5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. For automatics, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. For manual, you can park the vehicle but do not apply the parking brake for the cooling stage. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally. __________________ Life is too short to drive cars that suck. My build Thread

07-16-2014, 12:10 AM	#2
HDRDTD Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Trenton, Michigan Posts: 7,046	No need to re-surface the rotors unless you have groves in them. At a mere 3,500 miles, you should be good to go. Make sure to follow the Hawk break-in procedure.

07-16-2014, 01:30 AM	#4
fastforwarddad Drives: 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Doha Qatar Posts: 49	I was told that the front zl1 rotors were not turnable, maybe someone can confirm or disclaim

07-16-2014, 12:15 PM	#10
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Be sure to clean the rotors with brake cleaner and some sand paper to remove any old pad material before installing and bedding the new pads. Then follow the bed in procedure as posted above. It's very important to follow these steps to ensure the best performance and have them be noise-free. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007