Am I screwed cam install

[JCunningham]

So im installing my cam and well I just lubed with 5w-30 and didnt keep lubing it so by the time I got to the 2nd to last journal it started getting hard. so I backed it out but then coming out it got stuck. I put a spout on a qt of oil and squirted it in the 2 holes on both sides of the cam and finally got it out. everything looked ok so I squirted oil in the engine real good and lubed the cam on every journal as they went in and it feels ok. I get to installing the oil pump. A Melling 10296. I had to disassemble it to get it on but the pick up tube did not go up in it was out about 1/4". I had to get the pan down more so I disconnected the oil cooler lines and it came down some more. I hope I can just reinstall the cooler lines without needing to replace anything or a gasket. I figured I had to tighten the bolt and it would go in. well i keep tightening and its not going in. I looked with a mirror and the flange that the bolt goes in is now bent. I took the bolt out and its not stripped but there is a little deformity in the hole of the pump because it wasn't centered in the hole. Im ordering another pump. Do you think I can straighten the flange? do you think the cam will be ok?
I really think I should have not opened the engine. Iv built engines out of vehicle befor but I dont have the money to buy a new short block for a while. Id probably have to sell the Road King do replace the engine. I have to have the car out of my brothers garage buy saturday so he can do some side work. Hes a welder and has to make some benches. im ready to

[thahemp]

Post up a pic of the bent flange and out of round hole.

You really need to weasel the pump and pickup tube around until your are sure the tube isn't going to catch on the passageway. It's a frustrating task, but it'll eventually seat where it belongs. THEN you can crank it down with the bolt. If the pickup tube flange isn't bent much, then you can probably just straighten it back out by tightening the bolt.

Reach down there with your phone and take lots of pictures as it's going in. That way you know if it's going in right.

Now the cam... that's a little bothersome. 1st, if you're taking days to install everything, you should probably be using assembly lube instead of motor oil. 2nd, I don't know how much forcing you did, but those cam bearings are soft. It sounds like there's a chance you scored them.

You won't have to replace the whole engine. Worst case you'll have to pull it and see what needs replaced.

[thahemp]

Here's what happened. The tube gets caught in the channel because it's going in at the wrong angle.




We ended up with a very small gap on this one by the time it was cranked down tight, but no problems. The o-ring still seats fine.




This is what it should look like before you start cranking that bolt down.




You're not defeated yet. Keep your head up.

[Trob85]

Yea you're being to worrisome on this what I always do since it's the same on every ls engine. Put a nice coating of oil on the pick up tube and gasket then some in the slot on the oil pump itself. It will pop right in no problems and you can bolt it on and go having a generous amount of oil on it will go a long way to help you.

[vroomapunk]

I would say the cam is fine, especially isnce you pulled it out after it was stuck and didnt notice any gouges. I doubt you did any real damage if you didnt try to force anything.

As for the pickup tube and pump, I actually had to put a decent amount of force on the oil pan to give me enough room to work with on the pump. I had to gently pry up on the pickup tube and rotate the oil pump back and forth a little before it was bolted down to get everything to line up. But after all that, the flange is as flush as can be.

I wouldnt think you need a new pump, as long as it isnt stripped all the way and you can get the bolt to tighten down, the main concern is getting that tube in there all the way, with the o ring seated, etc.

If you are still nervous about it, take the pickup tube back out and try bending it a little back in the right direction, just take your time and be careful. Drop the pan more if you need to. You can spend an hour messing with the tube, or 10 minutes dropping the pan more, and only 20 minutes messing with the tube. Getting room to work down there makes everything a lot easier.

[JCunningham]

I think I got the pan as far down as I can. The cam was stuck good. I had to use a wrench in between the water pump bolts to turn it after i got it stuck. now It does rotate with a little resistance but like the diy said thats how it should. The stock cam spun with no effort at all. the lifers are still up there. If I get everything back together tomorrow Ill leave the coil packs unplugged and crank it over for 30sec or so to build some pressure before I fire it. I still have to put the pushrods and rockers back on. With only useing oil will it be ok if i dont fire it until friday or saturday if I have to? The diy should just say to use assembly lube.

[JCunningham]

there was a sliver of metal smeared into the hole so I filed it off so now its like a ramp. Ill disassemble the pump and clean it again. I torqued the bolts on the face plate of the pump to 120inlbs (13ftlb) as it took that to break them free. I used a snap on inlb tq wrench in the off position 1ftlb at a time to they broke free. Should that work?

[LSX Camaro]

I would recommend using a high quality engine assembly lube. Oil is just going to run off into the pan. You can pick up a tub of Redline assembly lube from Summit Racing. Cranking the engine till oil pressure comes up is also not the best way. It takes a little time for oil to make it to 7 and 8. You can pick up a hand oil pump from Harbor Freight for $8.00. There is a plug on the front left of the block. There is where the oil can be plumbed into prime.

[fourmz]

It has been my experiance that break out torque and make up torque are quite different. it cant hurt to do some quick research and see what the propper torque is.(my 2 cents)

[JCunningham]

so your saying pull the cam back out and put assembly lube on it?

[Mean Green Z28]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

so your saying pull the cam back out and put assembly lube on it?

If it's already in, I don't think you need to re-do it now. The more times you r&r you increase the chances of getting a scratch/etc. in there. Make sure everything's tightened to spec and the pickup tube o-ring is seated and not cut/off and you should be good. I've done dozens of LSx cam installs and have had no issues. If it's a brand new block with empty galleries, yeah I would say use assembly lube 'cos it'll take a while for the galleries to pump up; however, in a typical cam install, it's almost like you're stating up the engine after a long winter storage 'cos the galleries have oil in them already but they're mostly drained and not under pressure ... That's just me, if you feel comfortable taking it out again, then you should.

[JCunningham]

i found the torque spec for the oem pump its 106inlbs

[strych9]

I took a different approach to seat the pickup tube before I tightened the bolt. You can sneak some channel locks in there and gently squeeze the tube into place, hooking on the pickup tube flange and the oil pump body. After fighting the damn thing for 20 minutes, I tried that method and it popped right in.

[JCunningham]

i want to thank you guys for your replies. iv been ready to throw up ever sence the cam got stuck.