Need a little extra adjustment

[Burt]

Recently, I lowered my car on a set of Pedders XA coilovers. When I got the alignment done, the most positive they could get the rear camber to was about -1.1 degrees. Everything else, including rear toe, is adjustable within ranges I'm happy with. I'd like to get the rear camber down to 0.5-0.8 degrees, so I can reduce my front camber (it's sitting at -1.6 degrees, I'd like to get it down to around -1.2, and use my camber caster plates to add some in when I want to.) Has anybody on here run the Eibach rear toe camber bolts? My rear toe is zeroed out, and I'd be fine with running that, or even a little toe-in if necessary, so I guess I'm trying to determine the following:

1) Will the Eibach bolts give me the extra 0.25-0.5 degrees of adjustment I'm looking for?

2) How detrimental will the camber change be to my toe adjustment range?

I'm also going to raise the rear a small amount, maybe 0.25-0.33 inches, which will get me a little closer.

Lastly, I've seen on here (courtesy of JusticePete, Chief Suspension Wizard) that you can slot the front caster holes and use the factory rear camber bolts to add some adjustability, so I figure I should go ahead and slot the hole and get the free agjustment, but I'd like to make sure it's as straightforward as i think.

Thanks for looking!

[Rob@WretchedMS]

You will need new eccentric bolts that allow more adjustment,
I can't post a link, but you can find them under the hardware section of our website.

I'm not sure what the eibach bolts are, but if they are the smaller diameter/offset bolt with the center that is off center from the bolt, no, they are horrible and will likely break

Side Note:
When you install the higher movement eccentrics in the rear, you can use the rear camber eccentric (or buy 2 more rear bolt kits) in the front for the caster adjustment after you slot the caster bolt holes.

[Burt]

Thanks, do you happen to know what the shaft diameter on the camber eccentrics you carry is? I'd just like to know to compare the two, and haven't found the specs on the SPC bits.

on a similar note, I'm still fairly new to suspension adjustment, and suspensions in general, and I haven't been forced to deal with eccentrics much myself yet, so I've got questions about how they work. Most pertinently, what are the problems with installing an eccentric bolt backwards? I.E. if the bolt comes from the factory with the threaded end facing rearwards, what would be the issue with flipping it so that the threaded end faces towards the front of the car?

[Rob@WretchedMS]

14mm

flipping them doesn't typically cause any major issues, but the reason that they are in the way they are is so that the pointy end of the bolt is not pointing at the fuel tank in the event of a big accident. It can also make adjusting them a bit harder sometimes.

the difference in the stock ones to the aftermarket ones is the amount of offset. The bolt diameter is the same, just moved farther out from the center of the eccentric washer.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Stay away from this type of camber adjuster,

[Burt]

ok, that makes sense. I swapped from FE4 SS to FE6 1LE toe links, and the passenger side toe eccentric is a focused pain in the taint to remove threads-rearwards.

for the sake of discussion, and my laziness, since my car is street driven with autocross use, and only occasional track use in the future, it doesn't require a radical toe alignment in the rear, so realistically if I get two of the SPC sets from you, is there a point to me swapping the toe links, or just shelving them in case the car needs them in the future? Additional adjustment is nice, but unless there's a benefit I'm not aware of, like the SPC bolts being stronger than factory, there's not a point in installing adjustment I don't need. Granted, if I have them, it'll probably bug me and I'll do it anyway, but just asking.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

The camber and toe are not completely independent of each other so one effects the other.
If you lower the cradle one the left side you can get the bolt out easier.

[Burt]

Eyeballing it, am I correct in guessing that decreasing camber (making it more positive) would make the wheel toe out? That looks like how it would work to me, but I could very well be wrong.