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Old 07-12-2015, 02:34 PM   #1
Lyonguy
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS
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Valvetrain started ticking

So it's a 2010 2SS with a comp custom cam, PRC dual Valve Springs and hardened pushrods. It just started ticking earlier this week. I changed the oil in hopes that it would help but it made the sound worse. It's not always consistent with RPM which is kind of weird to me so I'm thinking it's a lifter about to go out? Maybe the hardened pushrods on the stock lifters over time?

I took off the valve cover and checked all the rockers, they all seem snug/fine.

What kind of lifters do you guys recommend if it is the lifters/what all would I need to replace for lifters if that is the problem?
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:32 PM   #2
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What engine and lifters do you have?
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Old 07-12-2015, 10:13 PM   #3
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LS3 and stock lifters
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:51 PM   #4
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Why can't you guys leave your engines alone? Wait untill these engines get the miles on 'em, then do all this performance stuff.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:05 AM   #5
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Why can't you guys leave your engines alone? Wait untill these engines get the miles on 'em, then do all this performance stuff.
As the Mask would say "'cause I gotta!" ;o)

Comp had some issues at one point with their cores. If a lifter is bad, gotta pull the heads. I had LS7 lifters put in mine when I did my cam ( cam motion core).

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Old 07-13-2015, 01:06 PM   #6
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Why can't you guys leave your engines alone? Wait untill these engines get the miles on 'em, then do all this performance stuff.
So we can walk ZL1s.
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:58 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Lyonguy View Post
LS3 and stock lifters
Oh the humanities ! An LS3 with lifter ticking.
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Old 07-13-2015, 02:09 PM   #8
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If you have a cam, I can't see why in god's name you didn't change out the lifters while you had the chance. Nevertheless, I just had this issue with my stock valvetrain. Turns out, it was a broken valve spring. I replaced the valve spring, and no more ticking.... for a day. Then it started ticking again. This time, no broken valve springs. No bent pushrods. No exhaust leaks. Makes me want to bang my head against a wall.

Pull the rockers off and check all the pushrods to make sure they are all 100% straight. Also inspect the springs carefully. If everything looks ok, your issue is either exhaust related, or it's a valve/lifter problem.
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Old 07-13-2015, 02:45 PM   #9
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They can be ticky at idle. There's variation in production stuff. Some lifters aren't as tight fitting the lifter bore as others.... Some have less oil pressure than others... some oil is getting aerated...

Rev it to about 2500 to build decent oil pressure... see if it still ticks.. If not, probably nothing serious going on. Cut open the oil filter, see if a bunch of metal is in the pleats. If it does tick bad at 2500... dig into it.

If you do want to bullet proof it at some point... Pull the heads and front cover. Stick in:

A blueprinted high volume oil pump
C5R timing chain
LS2 chain dampner

Johnson COPO lifters (call and ask for the COPOs) (When they develped the COPO motors those lifters were the only ones tested that survived and met all the perf criteria according to a COPO engineer I ran into at Autorama). Ask what .000 preload they should be set at, then measure and order some high dollar PRs with the perfect preload.

Shaft rocker system. Have heads machined for the shaft mounts and larger 10 mm retaining bolt. Pick your favorite... Crower, Jessel, YT...

Ti retainers/locks
Fresh valve springs if they have 10/15K miles on them
Mill the heads a bit for a hair more comp
Keep the rev limiter 6800 ish

Good oil like a Brad Penn, Amsoil Signature Series...10w30 or a in hot temps.

If it got worse with fresh oil, wonder if something has gone wonky with the oil pump? Split o ring on the pick up tube? Very easy to damage on a cam install. You'll have fine oil pressure, but it will be aerated and those air bubbles accumulate in the lifters.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:15 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info! Honestly though the guy before me had the cam done, he didn't change the stock oil pump which went out on me last Christmas, I had the joy of replacing that.

I'll try revving it up a little bit and see what happens. I don't have the funds to make it bullet proof right now. Due to my work/living condition I probably won't be able to tear into it until this weekend.

Anyone know off hand of a how-to for rotating the crank for the timing of the valves (if that's proper verbage?) First time working on valvetrain, I don't know how to tell TDC and all that garbage.

Until then I research! Thanks again for the info guys!
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:19 PM   #11
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I let it warm up and revved it up to 2500-3500 for a while. The sound was definitely less prevalent at higher RPM, a soft tick. At idle the tick is pretty loud, and has a sort of squeak to it. I checked the pulleys. It's not really consistent with RPM which makes me want to hope for header gasket or something, but it sounds like it's coming under the valve cover mehhhh.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:36 PM   #12
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Well for anyone that looks at this. I'm going to take the heads off and pull the lifters here in the next couple of weekends. Is there anything noteworthy to know before I dive in? Seems pretty straightforward.
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