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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Clutch and ZL1 diff, or clutch and LSA setup?
I'm going to be making some upgrades in the coming months...Currently sitting at about 470hp/465tq on a built 416ci.
I'm planning on making some upgrades in the next 6 months or so, but trying to decide which to go with. I REALLY want to go FI - motor's built for it. Blower cam, heads, etc... BUT...I know that the stock SS driveline can only handle so much power... I figure if I get the LSA kit installed, I'll probably be sitting somewhere in the neighborhood of 700 or so hp (would REALLY like to hit the 750 mark, but not sure how feasible that is with the LSA) I have no plans to go beyond 750 or so at this point in time. Car is a DD, and I want to keep it somewhat sane for my morning/evening commute (15 miles round trip, mostly traffic) So, cost: I need a new clutch. Current one is a Katech LS9X - not sure if I should rebuild, or just drop ~ $1,700 for a Street Slayer twin-disc. I'm currently leaning towards the Street Slayer just bc it has such great reviews. Labor to install? guessing 5-6 hrs billed to me, so we'll just round up to 2500 in order to account for the other little things needed (speed bleeder/throwout bearing/etc) Diff: ZL1 diff (new) seems to run in the $4k range. Plus whatever labor to install is (8 hrs?? no clue, just a guess) so I'm looking at somewhere around 8-9k for a beefed up driveline (clutch + Diff). Blower: Full LSA kit from ADM is $4,700. I figure there will be other parts needed (fuel pump, and who knows what else, so let's assume another 700 in random parts) again, ballparking an 8 hr install, that puts me in the 8-9k range for clutch/blower. So: Clutch+diff, or clutch+blower? I don't drag race. I occasionally get it from a roll on a late night, empty stretch of highway, but I don't race - 2 kids and a wife that I need to be around for, and jail/dead is not how I help them out. Randomly will hit it from a stoplight, but never a 3k rpm first gear dump and go. I'm well aware what the risk is should I go blower instead of diff (boom go the axles), but I REALLY want that blower. And with the cost being so close, I can't decide which to go with. Anyone care to share their thoughts? I have months to make this decision, and depending on a few different things, none of them may happen (2 kids.....) but I still wanted to get some thoughts from the folks here who REALLY know their shit. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to try and explain where I stand as clearly as possible... Thanks!!!! |
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#2 |
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Im running the centerforce dyad with no problems what so ever. Street slayer would be my next choice. I have the zl1 rear diff setup. Love it. Ebay has these all the time for sale. Low mile complete rear subframe are around 2500-3000 with brakes. Just swap the whole setup and be done. Add the lsa and a cam with gmls3 ported heads and you have my setup. I made 721rwhp/740rwtq. Runs perfect and no worries.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS Convertible Supercharged Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: WI Cert Welder Navy NSSN
Posts: 1,157
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I don't drag race but I do a few full throttle runs on my car every time I have it out. I'm between 650 - 700 HP. Still have stock clutch with 9000 miles on this set up. My clutch has not had one problem. Change clutch fluid every oil change. I have a separate reservoir.
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
Thanks for the reply! |
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#5 |
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"Cam Only"
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I have been wanting to do the LSA conversion for a while.
But gotta save up some more. Also gotta buy supporting mods like a clutch and axles. I just bought DSS 1000hp axles, so that along with my pfadt trailing arms and tie rods will make the rear end ready for the power the LSA is gonna put me at. Aiming for a solid/safe 650rwhp when I pull the trigger on the kit and get a 2.5" pulley, pump, fpcm, and injectors Cliff notes, if you're going to do the LSA, upgrade the axles..
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2013 AGM Camaro 2SS/RS M6 | LSA Blower, 2.5" pulley, 10% lower, FIC1000's, Fore Innovations Twin Pump fuel system w/ Flex Fuel, CMS Custom Grind Cam, Kooks 1 7/8" headers w/ catless off-road pipes, NPP Exhaust, 3.91's, JLT ZL1 Intake, Prospeed Heat Exchanger, Monster S Series Triple Disc Clutch | Pfadt Suspension, 1LE Sway Bars | DSS 1000hp axles | Mickey Thompson ET Street R 305/45/18 |
Tuned by Ryne @ CMS E85: 734rwhp/674rwtq Last edited by Jeff_SS; 10-09-2015 at 02:26 AM. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS Convertible Supercharged Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: WI Cert Welder Navy NSSN
Posts: 1,157
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Still on stock axles also.
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#7 | |
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Quote:
I pieced together a ZL1 driveline from a manual ZL1. I saved about $1,000 vs just buying the ZL1 driveline kit from Jegs or Summit. I spoke with Jordan at JDP and order a mantic twin disc clutch, (I'm shooting for ~900 whp) a tick braided stainless clutch line, a JDP clutch reservoir relocation kit, and a tick performance speed bleed line. I'm having J Rod install it all for me in the next week or so. I don't know what your current clutch is rated for so I couldn't tell you if it's strong enough or if you need to swap it. I want my car to be setup so that if I want to take it to the track and launch it hard repeatedly, I can. (I won't, but I can.) Onebad1LE and AquablueSS are both Houston area guys with FI and on their stock drive line. They both only swapped clutches. You could reach out to them and get feedback on that.
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Taco's 2014 SS
Mods: 417 Stroker | CAI | Bo's PTB | Kooks LTs | Flowmaster Outlaw Catback | Night Fury Cam | Powerbond UDP | Apex Catch Can |PRC Ported Heads |FAST 102 Intake |Suspension Crap| Built by J-Rod. |
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#8 |
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Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE A10 (stock) Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,706
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If you're only messing around on the road with street tires, LSA and existing clutch would probably be fine depending on your driving habits.
If you're planning on ever going to the strip, you'd better suspension-up and trailing arms and axles at minimum. Stronger diff is essential in not being trailered home from an exploding rear. Stock clutch might last a quick season then be toast. Stock clutch will slip a little and be a tad bit "gentler" on the rear unlike a twin-disc, so less apt to break something, but you still can. Clutch swapout, about 4 hours. Rear diff swapout, about 4 hours. LSA install 7-10 hours.
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> 2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE A10 > > Past Builds: 2013 Twin-Turbo LSX434 M6 - 1,359rwhp daily |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Right on. Good info folks!!!! Thanks. Will be doing more digging and hopefully be able to pull the trigger on a solid setup here in the next few months. Hopefully this rambunctious oil market doesn't cause my bonus to shit the bed.....
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#10 | |
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Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Quote:
+1 You wont "NEED" to replace the clutch or rear end/half shafts if your just going to drive it around town and occasionally roll race. For what its worth, i got a used Zl1 pumpkin with 13k miles on it for 1300 bucks shipped. Take some time and watch the C5 classifieds for some half shafts, and a drive shaft, and your in there for about another 1600 bucks. Give or take....But if your not going to track the car, I don't think you really need to spend the money on the rear end. In fact the only reason I spent the money is because I do track my car. Clutch is just a matter of time before it goes, but it will last you a little while, as long as your not dumping it. I would spend the money on clutch and blower, scrap the rear end, and enjoy!
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
Thanks for the advice. Perhaps what I'll do is just toss the blower on, and set aside money to fund should parts break. I'd rather wear out what I have than prematurely replace if things will hold for a bit. I know my clutch is rated to 750, but no idea if it will hold at/beyond that number (and honestly, not sure that the LSA setup will yield that much HP, anyhow...my gut is telling me that I'll be in the 650-700 range...and in that case, maybe I'll look into a different blower...) Anyhow...appreciate the commentary!!! |
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#12 |
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Drives: Anything I want Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DfW - Texas
Posts: 5,407
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Let us save you the headache
We do complete ZL1 REARENDS,AXLES,BEARING HUBS,DRIVESHAFTS,NUTS AND BOLT INSTALLED FOR $4500 INSTALLED with trade in of your old working driveline.
Also we can make you a complete package deal I guatantee for a fair price with ADM Quality on the entire job. My .02 Send me a list of what you want done exactly and I can send you a quote. |
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#13 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
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#14 |
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I was thinking that was a good price up unit he said "with the trade in of your driveline"... Pass. you can have that all done locally (Houston) for less than that AND keep your current driveline. (Either save for later if you decide to de-mod, or try to sell to a V6 guy.)
ECS Supercharger? (If you decide the supercharger route.) Did you have your heart set on the LSA setup or did it appeal to you because of affordability?
__________________
Taco's 2014 SS
Mods: 417 Stroker | CAI | Bo's PTB | Kooks LTs | Flowmaster Outlaw Catback | Night Fury Cam | Powerbond UDP | Apex Catch Can |PRC Ported Heads |FAST 102 Intake |Suspension Crap| Built by J-Rod. |
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