Alternator size

[beak81champ]

Does anyone know which numbers on the silver plate in the trunk correspond to the alternator size, as far as amps? Or are they all the same?

[Snoman]

Owners manual, 150amps (might be 135, but don't remember it as such).

[beak81champ]

Thanks Snoman. I don't know if I received one when I bought the car. I need to check!

[yellowcamaro11]

150 amp

[beak81champ]

Will this amp hold up to a 1200.6 on front stage, and 1750 watts to subs? It is an SQ build, but I'm certainly not afraid of the volume button. I think the formula is total rms divided by 13.8, but I'm not certain...

[Snoman]

Originally Posted by beak81champ

Will this amp hold up to a 1200.6 on front stage, and 1750 watts to subs? It is an SQ build, but I'm certainly not afraid of the volume button. I think the formula is total rms divided by 13.8, but I'm not certain...

The math gets complicated and there are too many unknown variables. The short version is this, the stock battery is good up to about 1,500w. After this, I would recommend immediately going to a two battery system or a single high quality AGM Battery like the XS D3400. If you go the single route and after installing your audio, your headlights dim drastically at idle, you are going to need a second battery and/or larger alternator.

Changing out the vehicles blood line may seem easy, but I recommend paying a professional to analyze your needs, goals and ultimately replace the alternator if needed. Whatever you do, do not fall for the capacitor scam and waste money buying that useless crap.

[beak81champ]

Thanks man! I have read tons about the capacitor BS. I thought I had put enough money and thought into this whole system, but I guess I need to continue to buy, sell, and trade into an upgraded electrical system. I'm not going to skimp on that, after spending a couple grand on everything else! I appreciate all the help and info!

[yellowcamaro11]

I have stock alternator but installed the XS D3100 (100ah) battery.

Running 1000w 4ch but only using 2 channels currently for front stage and then 1200w amp for subs.

I figure I am running around 1700w peak plus whatever little power the MS-8 consumes.

Ran the system hard for an hour on the interstate and no issues.

Watts / Voltage = Amps.

I believe I read the alternator is good for about 60-70% of power for electronics. Could be off a little; search the forum/google, there's plenty of reading on it. I calculated for my system based on all the reasearch/previous knowledge.

You definitely need a new battery. Maybe a new alt...depends on how much you plan on running at peak power.

[Snoman]

Originally Posted by yellowcamaro11

I have stock alternator but installed the XS D3100 (100ah) battery.

Running 1000w 4ch but only using 2 channels currently for front stage and then 1200w amp for subs.

I figure I am running around 1700w peak plus whatever little power the MS-8 consumes.

Ran the system hard for an hour on the interstate and no issues.

Watts / Voltage = Amps.

I believe I read the alternator is good for about 60-70% of power for electronics. Could be off a little; search the forum/google, there's plenty of reading on it. I calculated for my system based on all the reasearch/previous knowledge.

You definitely need a new battery. Maybe a new alt...depends on how much you plan on running at peak power.

Separately some of this is accurate however, as it relates to a vehicle audio system as a whole is simply incorrect and potentially dangerous advice. The physics involved with altering a vehicles battery and alternator is best left for professionals only. This is the primary reason I didn't get into the actual calculations and provide details in previous posts. A professional installation shop will take the time to discuss your power requirement needs and ensure yourself, your vehicle and your engine stay safe.

[Chad's ZL1]

Originally Posted by beak81champ

Will this amp hold up to a 1200.6 on front stage, and 1750 watts to subs? It is an SQ build, but I'm certainly not afraid of the volume button. I think the formula is total rms divided by 13.8, but I'm not certain...

I have an SQ competition ZL1 car with the stock alternator. I replaced to the stock battery with just about the same as the stock was before. (Just an AGM battery). No issues with me. I can crank on my car for a good hour or so with the car off with no issue. I have 3 10's along with my other high end audio and am running about the same amperage as you. I also have NO capacitor.

[yellowcamaro11]

Originally Posted by Snoman

Separately some of this is accurate however, as it relates to a vehicle audio system as a whole is simply incorrect and potentially dangerous advice. The physics involved with altering a vehicles battery and alternator is best left for professionals only. This is the primary reason I didn't get into the actual calculations and provide details in previous posts. A professional installation shop will take the time to discuss your power requirement needs and ensure yourself, your vehicle and your engine stay safe.

I have more electronics training and experience (including a degree in electronics) than the average Joe in a "professional" install shop. I have put car fires out as a volunteer firefighter due to poor "professional" installs.

If you have advice to give, give it. Don't attack someone eles's intellect. All I did was recommend additional research and a battery upgrade, which is pretty much all your original post did too.

[beak81champ]

Thank you all for the info and recommendations!