Bad day

[stang stopper]

Hey I recently installed a cam in my camaro,while trying to put a little pressure on the pickup tube with a push rod. It slipped and is now in the very bottom of the oil pan. I know it`s in the bottom because I can see the end of the rod in the drain hole.I was able to use a small magnet but because of the angle it won`t come through the drain hole. I was told that because it`s below the baffle it will not cause any problems. Just wonder if that`s okay. After all the trouble with the pickup tube o-ring I created a bracket to use the other hole on the tube. Wish i had thought of that earlier.

[Bo White]

Pull the pan. I had to pull mine to get chain tensioner spring pieces out. Its not hard. CFD sells the flanges to bolt the cross member back in after you cut it.

[Bo White]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390453

[rjs1le]

It may not be a problem, but if everything is just right and that comes in contact with the crank, it will really be a bad day. If the front cover is still off you might be able to lift the motor enough to drop the pan a little to get a magnet to it. Maybe someone else has a better idea.

[stang stopper]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Pull the pan. I had to pull mine to get chain tensioner spring pieces out. Its not hard. CFD sells the flanges to bolt the cross member back in after you cut it.

So you`re say I have to cut the cross member

[Bo White]

Yes. Look at my link. Was easy.

[stang stopper]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Yes. Look at my link. Was easy.

Thanks for the all the info, I loosened the motor mounts and raised the the engine up and drop the oil pan about 3 inches .I was able to insert a piece of wire into the push rod while holding it in place with a magnet and pulled it through the drain hole. What luck. What is the break in procedure for a new cam install BTR stage 4. Thanks

[christianchevell]

LOL use br 30 driven racing break in oil and rev it up and down for like 30 minutes like the new engine break in procedure in the manual from GM for a drop in and then taking it easy for a while on the new engine and dumping the break in oil after dyno tune then I run quality ls30....Different places will say no its a roller you don't have to break it in, and they know because? they are riding the hood for ten twenty thousand fifty thousand miles when the metallurgy of the cam breaks down form no good ZDDP based break in when the rollers finally dig in and you wonder if its the trunnions fault or maybe the 8620 core was not heat hardened good enough...or had a bad spot in the oven...ETC...like they used to blame regular bumpsticks steel...funny how my "
regular steel comp cam"
cam broken in never gave me a problem and prestine with over 10k on it when I pulled it using driven racing advice....and it was .639/.623 with .675 springs.....
And with your short 40 posts your not a long time lurker most likely so consider this, Robert Way back when he did the tutorial with pics had a hard time setting his valve lash and figuring the preload..so this is what I have learned on here over the years for those who really screwed the pooch; The engine is so strong you can be way off on preload and it will run fine yet with out a good break in on the cam; though it is much more likely down the road to have cam and roller failures if you press it and have problems anyway....

.047 thread pitch =.070 +++ range for one turn ;not turning the nut like a idiot and not figuring in the rocker ratio has screwed up more engines on novice shade tree idiots on here than I can shake a stick at...MOST LIKELY so to reach the magic .040-.060 range shops have reported the typewriter sound to be less at and where the engines are when taken apart form the factory with ls3/7 lifters you need around 3/4 turn to get the preload from zero lash. Other lifters require their preload ....... so many have said oh the thread pitch is .047 I am trying to get to one turn plus because I want to be at about .060 or more to be less prone to high rev valve float...so they tighten say over one turn.....and while the lifter can with plunger travel go to .070 range the preload for the ls7 engine with its 1.8 rockers, the cams are less lift with that ratio for their engine and such to make more power as its lift is multiplied by the rocker ratio...so say a .600 lift cam becomes a .635 lift..... and a ls7 does not go beyond that .070 plunger preload...... unless they are using some weird lifter...as johnsons and morrels and such often have less preload and running quieter is desired by many rather than the chatter I deal with that quiets down when heated and the engines metal expands to increase the distance and decrease the preload...I watch for upper end valve float but should not have too so much as I am not drag racing right now.... Anyway have a good one 1.7 x .047 actually = .0799 much more than .070 for the ls7....and at 3/4 turn it has to be .060 range tight but right on stock as much as I could learn, and less than that quieter but maybe needing more preload to avoid slop for a real racing engine..so I would say above .040 to the .060 like shops have said...

[Bo White]

No break in on a roller. Run what ever oil you normally run. I dont even use assembly lube. I just coat the cam down with oil and put it in.

[stang stopper]

Originally Posted by Bo White

No break in on a roller. Run what ever oil you normally run. I dont even use assembly lube. I just coat the cam down with oil and put it in.

Well I got my cam installed, my concern now is I have a reverse lock out issue. I don`t know f I unplugged something or if a solenoid is bad.The car actually run decent but I need a tune real soon.

[Bo White]

Any codes?

[stang stopper]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Any codes?

It must have happened because the car had the front raised for 4 days.I decided to let it run idle for about 20 more mins and that took care of the problem. It drives really good for a first time install,I followed the tutorial on this site and believe me it works. Hats off to Robertway.