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Old 12-03-2017, 01:56 AM   #1
DM91266
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS
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LS3 M6 low idle

I recently purchased a used but very nice 2010 Camaro SS trade in at my local Chevy Dealer and the previous owner made a bunch of mods to the car. Here is the list of what was done. Cold Air Inductions CAI
Billet Catch Can w/ AN Lines & Fittings
Vengeance Racing Valve Cover Breather
WCCH LS3 Cylinder Heads
GM MLS Head Gaskets
ARP Head Bolts
High Performance Lifters
Vengeance Racing Custom Billet Core Camshaft
Vengeance Racing*Hardened Pushrods
Vengeance Racing .660 Lift Dual Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers
Trunion Kit for Stock Rockers
Melling Hi Volume Oil Pump
Katech C5R Timing Chain
3 Bolt Conversion Timing Gear
PowerBond 25% Under Drive pulley
American Racing Stainless Long Tube Header System
3” CATTED X Pipe
NGK TR55 Spark Plugs
GM Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Vengeance Racing High Temperature Spark Plug Wire Insulators
160* Thermostat
Royal Purple HPS Oil
Dexcool Coolant
Custom ECU Tune
HD Clutch .........My question is about the idle. Since the cam is so choppy, my tach reads around 550 Rpm`s at idle. If I turned the idle up to around 750 rpm, would this effect the tune that was recently done to the engine? Thanks
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:24 AM   #2
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500 ish idle RPM’s once it’s warmed up is completely normal
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:31 AM   #3
christianchevell
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950 should be about the idle not what its current idle is, I have my second Camaro my second cammed engine one wild one mild both have a 950 idle, no it should not affect the tune and you have to realize to avoid bucking/cam surge take off should be in the 1300-1500 range also BTW..... IGNORE THE LAST GUY HE DOES NOT UNDERSTAND..HIS STATEMENT IS ERRONEOUS AND WITH SUCH A LOW IDLE YOUR VERY LIKELY TO STALL.

SIGNED; OLD MOTORHEAD... and BTW no it its not going to alter the tune which should have custom AFR etc etc etc done to it, but this does bring into question just how good the person doing the tune or the preloaded canned tune in a handheld is as that's; way way too low and would just make more chop and stumbling...my car has a rough idle and chop with a mild stage three cam at 950 idle.... 114+4 lsa .613/.578 228/235 area last cam same idle ; 112 LSA .639/.623 235/239......

And btw the UDP you use= cheap non balancing for the engine to help the cam and your idle most likely to also make the battery not charge well; I use a FLUIDAMPR which costs $400 to dampen vibrations theirs and ATI's the most likely to actually harmonically balance harmful vibrations, Under Drive Pulley on a internally balanced engine for its supposed balancer,( Stock is not a balancer at all just pulley basically old school with out balancing and a rubber ring to help like a old school balancer on a SBC/BBC and can come apart at the rubber..like a say cheap SLP UDP .....I have seen it on here over the years...so be careful there, its stupid and make .00000005 HP to put out and buy one drinking cool aid.....
I say this because once I bought a TSP one and my tuner and I both agreed he did not want to install it its design was cheap like other cheap two hunks of metal and a rubber ring deal..might as well stay stock.... And my current balancer underdrives the ALT only and with a higher idle does nothing to my charging system...yours most likely is starved...

Also things important to know; springs with higher lift cams lie those most popular to mod our ls3 engine with last about 25k before they should be considered in need of replacement as they have lived their stressful life, if some monkey missed a shift bad and over revved the engine the springs may have like a month or two before a problem occurs and you can actually bend the pushrods and its all sounding fine with a over rev form mechanical downshifting past the rev limit.

And trunnion upgrades basically have gone to bushings as most needle bearing aftermarket bearings have proven they can fail also just like stock if your that unfortunate..most have no problem though. While some use the tr55's also I use the TR6 IX and find them the best, some like to change plugs a lot with just plain tr6 coppers etc...as their life is short if not Iridium which cannot be gapped also BTW...its a brittle wire... And I use Driven racing oil LS30 after tons of research and yes you can find a article on the different types of synthetic oil and a comparison done for amsoil...and the royal purple...not one of the best..not that all 5w30 is on the list mine isn't but mine is the only OIL made specifically for modified LS engines recommended by Santa and his NICE list of everyone who makes anything for your engine....


SO there you go chew on that for a while, and welcome, find a good dyno shop and save up $500, try to calculate the life left of the springs or take it easy and for gods sake don't raise the rev limit like a idiot to a point where 7k is all the springs are tested too and your diminishing returns on a cam which dropped off making torque 2k before that..not so friggin good...... Lots of things to think about, he who did the work? what he knew? how it was tuned?


https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf anyone can buy parts, knowing things are not so easy, and I let a pro do my engine I have no garage and work too much and sure don't have my own dyno I pay well for it to be dynode and tuned with HO tuning and stock Gm hard and software... Good Luck and welcome that's my rant.
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Last edited by christianchevell; 12-03-2017 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
950 should be about the idle not what its current idle is, I have my second Camaro my second cammed engine one wild one mild both have a 950 idle, no it should not affect the tune and you have to realize to avoid bucking/cam surge take off should be in the 1300-1500 range also BTW..... IGNORE THE LAST GUY HE DOES NOT UNDERSTAND..HIS STATEMENT IS ERRONEOUS AND WITH SUCH A LOW IDLE YOUR VERY LIKELY TO STALL.

SIGNED; OLD MOTORHEAD...
This^^^^^

Should be 900-950 rpm at idle!
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:46 AM   #5
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Hey I didn't know a cam would make you need a high idle, so

My stock cam idles roughly around 550 *shrugs*
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC_SS View Post
Hey I didn't know a cam would make you need a high idle, so

My stock cam idles roughly around 550 *shrugs*
Mine too....
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:59 AM   #7
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FIRST thing I would do is who did the tune? Until then kinda pissin in the wind IMHO..good luck.

BTW - sounds like a very nice ride! Take your time gettin use to it and if your are plannin a trip to the 1/4 I would plan on some rear suspension mods to minimize/eliminate any wheel hop..With those mods and increased engine output hop is a given...and sum DR's...peace out!

BTWW! - since you are in OH I would seriously consider dynoSteve at RDP for any assistance with the cars tuning unless you already got peeps...dude is seriously talented..
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:00 AM   #8
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Mine 3 with a S/C and no after market cam.
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:38 AM   #9
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Stock cam idles around 550 to 600. Any performance upgrade cam should have the idle reset to about 800 to 900. Helps with overall drive ability and stalling out etc. Stock cam cars need not apply.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:36 AM   #10
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Two things I am very surprised with in this thread:

1 - That you were able to find such a heavily modded Camaro at an actual Chevy Dealer. (I have heard stories of them demanding the car be returned to stock before they would touch it)

2 - That you actually have a full list of what the previous owner did to the car. Not only is that fantastic, but it is probably the reasoning behind #1.

Anyhow, finding a ride like this at a dealer for a good price had to be an awesome experience. I can only imagine starting it up for the first time and test driving it...especially if the salesperson rode with you! Good luck man! All the hard work and money mods are done for you already! Although that is half the fun, now you can focus on the even meatier stuff. SUSPENSION!!!

EDIT: To answer your question, YES - it will affect the tune considering the tune is where the idle will be adjusted. But I am not sure that is what you meant.

*** Since you have a full mod list, the tune is what I would focus on first. Find a reputable and trusted tuner so you know exactly where you stand. The tune is the one thing I would not feel 100% comfortable inheriting as-is, especially since we already know that the idle is incorrect (low) for such a high lift cam.

After that, you are free to focus on the suspension. With all that power, that is exactly what I would work on after the tune is figured out.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:44 AM   #11
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My suggestion; find a good dyno tuner in your area and have it checked and properly tuned if necessary. Good luck.
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:26 PM   #12
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Some people cam stuff then run the lowest possible idle, just to be cool at cars and coffee with maximum chop. Then there are good tuners.
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:58 PM   #13
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Without writing a book-- Yes it is Low
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:25 AM   #14
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Check the battery. My idle was getting a little too low until I changed the battery.
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