NPP Fuse Pull - R2 or R8?

[GAFreddy]

I've read all the threads, watched all the vids. I went to do, came across two fuses; the common F8 and R2, both labeled "EXH FLAP."

I've seen everyone go with the F8 10A, but what is the larger R2?

Sorry is this has been covered before, I checked the stickies and did not see.

Thanks in advance.

[HOJO]

It’s #8, a red 10amp fuse. You are in the trunk fuse box mounted on the right side correct. I have never heard of the #2 being pulled. I pulled #8 and all is fine, it’s the first thing I did.

[SecondZ28]

I also pulled the 10A and haven’t looked back

[GAFreddy]

Originally Posted by SecondZ28

I also pulled the 10A and haven’t looked back

I haven't taken it for a spin yet, but did you notice a difference at the lower RPM's?

Originally Posted by HOJO

It’s #8, a red 10amp fuse. You are in the trunk fuse box mounted on the right side correct. I have never heard of the #2 being pulled. I pulled #8 and all is fine, it’s the first thing I did.

Yea, the F8 is the 10a, and the R2 is a big grey one.

[HOJO]

The little red one that’s it. I did not notice a gain in the lower rpms. Nothing really to be gained hp wise it’s just the exhaust will always be a little louder since the butterflies are always open.

[SecondZ28]

Originally Posted by TexasTex

I haven't taken it for a spin yet, but did you notice a difference at the lower RPM's?

In sound? Yes. It’s definitely more noticeable, a lot louder burble and popping under deceleration. And it doesn’t go quiet after 1k rpm. It’s the perfect balance for me. For the first time, I don’t see any reason to go aftermarket

Beware, if you get a tune, make sure they leave the stock fuel table settings in for deceleration fuel cutoff

A hint of drone on the highway. On a long road trip I would put the fuse back in

[GAFreddy]

Originally Posted by HOJO

The little red one that’s it. I did not notice a gain in the lower rpms. Nothing really to be gained hp wise it’s just the exhaust will always be a little louder since the butterflies are always open.

Nice, good to know. Any idea what the big grey one is?

Originally Posted by SecondZ28

In sound? Yes. It’s definitely more noticeable, a lot louder burble and popping under deceleration. And it doesn’t go quiet after 1k rpm. It’s the perfect balance for me. For the first time, I don’t see any reason to go aftermarket

Beware, if you get a tune, make sure they leave the stock fuel table settings in for deceleration fuel cutoff

A hint of drone on the highway. On a long road trip I would put the fuse back in

Yea, I have decided against going aftermarket exhaust, also for the first time ever. There enough obnoxiously loud mustangs around these parts.

I don't drive it on long trips, I take the truck for that stuff. Good tip, I'm looking at getting a tune here once I put in the CAI.

SecondZ, I'm looking for a TB SS for the wife. Those things are nice.

[SecondZ28]

Originally Posted by TexasTex

Good tip, I'm looking at getting a tune here once I put in the CAI.

SecondZ, I'm looking for a TB SS for the wife. Those things are nice.

If your only doing a CAI, the Roto-Fab does not require a tune. Yea when they tune out the tables the exhaust loses it bark and goes mute. Although some prefer this.

Nice, the TBSS has been great. It’s my DD, I absolutely love it; good power, good interior room, good towing capacity. I’ve got 42k on it now. Good condition, stock trucks with <50k mileage are getting hard to find.

Although it’s not without its long list of issues (oil starvation, blown trans, eats wheel bearings, leaky air bags, etc). I would buy a low mileage truck and address it’s major faults by immediately installing the PCM of NC oil pickup tube relocation kit and trans cooler. The LS2 is a ticking time bomb to spin a bearing stock, some people add 1 additional quart of oil as a band-aid, but that won’t solve the problem.

[HOJO]

Sorry Ted, no clue what the gray one is. Only been in that fuse panel once.

[GAFreddy]

Originally Posted by SecondZ28

If your only doing a CAI, the Roto-Fab does not require a tune. Yea when they tune out the tables the exhaust loses it bark and goes mute. Although some prefer this.

Nice, the TBSS has been great. It’s my DD, I absolutely love it; good power, good interior room, good towing capacity. I’ve got 42k on it now. Good condition, stock trucks with <50k mileage are getting hard to find.

Although it’s not without its long list of issues (oil starvation, blown trans, eats wheel bearings, leaky air bags, etc). I would buy a low mileage truck and address it’s major faults by immediately installing the PCM of NC oil pickup tube relocation kit and trans cooler. The LS2 is a ticking time bomb to spin a bearing stock, some people add 1 additional quart of oil as a band-aid, but that won’t solve the problem.

Really, so thats how to get the tune to not take out the note of the exhaust? Had no idea, good info, greatly appreciated.

Good to know about the TB. I had an LS1, then was out of the country for awhile and kind of skipped over the LS2. Didn't get back not the car game until three years ago when I bought the SS.

Originally Posted by HOJO

Sorry Ted, no clue what the gray one is. Only been in that fuse panel once.

No worries, I was kind of baffled as well.

[SecondZ28]

Originally Posted by TexasTex

Really, so thats how to get the tune to not take out the note of the exhaust? Had no idea, good info, greatly appreciated.

Good to know about the TB. I had an LS1, then was out of the country for awhile and kind of skipped over the LS2. Didn't get back not the car game until three years ago when I bought the SS.

Yep, just leave DFCO table alone

The LS2 was fine in the Corvette/GTO, the oil starvation was isolated to the Trailblazer's unique oil pan design, which was front sump and has accommodations for the front axle going through it. Without sufficient baffles, under hard acceleration it sloshes the oil to the back; starving the front bearings. The pan was designed for the Inline-6, where hard acceleration wasn’t an issue; they didn’t imagine they’d be dropping in a 400 hp/torque V8 one day.

AWD and 2WD models have the same pan, but 2WD models do have the option of switching to a C6 Corvette pan since they have no front axle shafts going thru the TB pan. Mines AWD, so I had to relocate the pickup tube.

[VRZL113]

When I purchased my ZL1, I had no idea it had a mild 2 wild installed on it. It didn't have any of the remotes nor was the home link setup to operate the valves. When I removed it, and put the 10amp fuse back in, I was disappointed how quite the ZL1 actually is while cruising along (I was used to the flaps open). Decided to install a new mild 2 wild and program the home link buttons to control the exhaust valves. It's set to open 95% of the time except for when the wife is in the car. I love the adjustability vs. just pulling the fuse.

[NVRL8 ZL1]

R2 is a relay, not a fuse.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by NVRL8 ZL1

R2 is a relay, not a fuse.

There is a mod where you can replace that R2 relay and tie it to a 3-way switch in the cabin (mine is in the center console). This allows you to force any of the following 3 conditions:

1) stock control
2) always open
3) always closed

It also holds the flaps closed in position 3 for quiet(er) morning start-ups, unlike some of the other ways to do this.

FWIW, I find that headers + open flaps is really obnoxiously loud. Don't get me wrong, I love it and drive it that way 95% of the time, but the average person would think it is obnoxiously loud.

I always start it with the flaps closed in the morning and open them once I get out of the neighborhood. Headers and flaps closed is still louder than my friend's ls6 car with headers and Stainless Works cat-back for comparison.