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#1 |
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Stovebolt BluFlame 6
Drives: '12 2LT/RS, IBM; '20 Traverse Prem Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wherever!
Posts: 893
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Window Indexing Cycles Repeatedly (Problem)
I have attempted to find info via search of this forum and Google.
Issue: After closing driver's door and window raises to the closed position (indexes), the window continues to cycle the indexing attempt and repeats this cycling for approximately 15 seconds or until the key is turned to start the engine. As it cycles, the interior light flickers/dims from the electrical load placed on the system. Attempt to Resolve: I have reindexed the driver's window multiple times, and while this appears to resolve the issue temporarily, it ultimately returns. I don't know what mechanical or electronic components (other than the wondow motor itself) are contained within the door. It seems to me that there may be a limit switch that is not properly sensing the window in the proper, full-up position and it continuously cycles power to the motor attempting to "make" the limit switch. I believe it ultimately stops cycling as power is interrupted by the function that "kills" exterior and interior lights after closing the door. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas regarding the cause and resolution of this issue? thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,735
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My driver's side window requires indexing every single time I cycle the ignition. Every time.
If I just ignore it, every time I open and close my door, the window creeps down every so slightly more and more until eventually it is fully down. It does this because it doesn't know what position it is in and thinks it is cracking the window so the door can close to relieve the pressure. But it never goes back up. Brand new battery, brand new BCM, brand new driver's door harness....Original window motor and regulator. It is all related to when my drivers door ground broke, behind the driver's side kick panel, which is apparently fairly common. My X500 connector in the door harness also had water infiltration, which is how most of this began. I would take a look at the rectangular X500 connector in between the door and side of the jamb. Mine originally filled with water from my sunroof drains clogging and started shorting out both windows and door locks, causing crazy behavior. Do you have a sunroof?
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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#3 |
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yea, my drivers side occasionally has a mind of its own, but doesn't sound like mine is as bad as yours. I'm curious to see what others say.
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#4 |
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Stovebolt BluFlame 6
Drives: '12 2LT/RS, IBM; '20 Traverse Prem Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wherever!
Posts: 893
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Yes, I do. I'll take a look at the connector and see if there is any water thresher. I guess I should have mentioned that it only happens when it is cold, and typically goes away after the car is driven and warmed up---until it sits again for an extended period of time.
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 983
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Quote:
Eventually I got a message on the HUD that the window needed to be closed even though it appeared to be (from the inside with door closed), so I opened the door and worked the window manually and closed the door a few times and all has been good since... ![]() I suspect that water gets inside the door against the window, freezes, and the window can't open and/or close fully to satisfy the ECU (perhaps a limit switch as you suggest), and once the car warms up and the window/door goes through an up/down or open/close cycle all is good again.
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Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
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#6 |
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Stovebolt BluFlame 6
Drives: '12 2LT/RS, IBM; '20 Traverse Prem Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wherever!
Posts: 893
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KillboyPowerhead--thanks for the confirmation! I'm in Texas, and we seldom get temperatures cold enough for it to cause issues. The other side of that coin is that it doesn't give a predictable period for diagnosing and troubleshooting. Thanks again.
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