Does this seem in line price wise for Engine/Machine shop work?

[InFiD3ViL]

Having my replacement LS3 refreshed/rebuilt at a local engine shop before I install it.

I am having the engine completely inspected, disassembled/reassembled and cleaned, cylinders honed, all new bearings (including cam bearings), new rings, lifters, blue beehives and hardware, valve seals, all new seals and gaskets. Engine already has brand new Melling HV 10296 pump. Not sure of brands of rings/bearings and other specs yet, but will find out Monday. Total around $1600 including tax.

The engine is only around 20k miles, but the person that had it before me had it sitting on a pallet for 3 years, so the rings rusted to the bores a bit and made a mess, so this was needed. I was pissed, but I won't get into the story of that here. I ran a compression test and was getting as low as 60 psi on 4 cylinders, with the others between 100-150 dry. Anyhow, I figured while I was in there I would replace most/all the wear parts. Otherwise, it looked pristine inside. The builder also said aside from the stuck rings and nasty cylinder liners, it looked really good and he feels the mileage seems about right.

Believe me, there is a ton of other stuff I would like to have done right now, but this is to replace the L99 I hydrolocked a few months back and I am running out of money. If I had more funds available I would probably put it towards ARP fasteners, but it doesn't seem likely. I just want a good solid foundation to build on later, so this way I at least know exactly what's been done to it internally and can have a bit of piece of mind.

Anyhow, that seem like a decent price for the work? Anything else should I be asking him? The shop has very good reviews and has a good reputation locally, and the owner actually listens, so that is a plus.

[Black_SS10]

Not a bad price. My machine shop is currently building a forged motor for me. Machine bill alone is $2500. But the works is being done. Cleaned, racing bearings, align hone, torque plate, bored, crank polished, balanced, etc. Also the oil barbell and oil galley plugs are being replaced with billet piece's. My dude does excellent work, so I prolly pay a bit more of a premium.

[christianchevell]

yes that price seems about right.

[G8One2]

I agree, that is actually a good price. They really arent doing much but tearing it down, cleaning and reassembling it, and checking clearances along the way. Not doing much, by that i mean they arent doing any major repairs, just overhauling it. Its still a lot of work and would take a few days of labor to do.

[InFiD3ViL]

Ok, cool. I figured it was a decent price, actually a bit cheaper than I had expected.

I just want this nightmare over with. I cannot wait.

[InFiD3ViL]

Forgot to mention, my builder says I don't need a true break in oil, but he is suggesting Valvoline VR1 w/zinc and that is what he is using for the initial fill. He is going to pressure prime it. Not sure what weight yet. He said the zinc isn't really needed on our engines but will help with wear.

Anyone have experience with this oil?

[zz430camaro]

No but I use Royal Purple HPS that is fortified with zinc in my engine. I believe the added pressure of a high performance valve train needs all the help it can get.

[InFiD3ViL]

Just an update here.

Picked up the engine yesterday, looks awesome. I immediately pulled out the borescope to check the hone and it has a really nice crosshatch.

He also milled the heads .015, which I didn't know he was doing. He told me there is no way he will ever reinstall aluminum heads onto a rebuild without at least a cleanup pass on the heads, so that's cool. So in total, all parts cleaned, new Clevite bearings, Hastings rings, TTY head bolts, main bolts, Fel Pro MLS head gaskets, Fel Pro Valve cover gaskets, front and rear cover seals, valve seals, blue GM LS6 beehives and hardware, LS7 lifters, .015 head mill...Total cost was $1700 even, no tax since I paid in cash.

Now comes the install. So psyched.

[G8One2]

Awesome! Good luck getting it back together. Double check all your clearances as you go. Better to catch anything now vs when it's back together and in the car.

[G8One2]

Your chamber volumes areabout 2.5cc smaller than what they were before. Probably gain you a half point of compression from stock.

[Clarkstar]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Forgot to mention, my builder says I don't need a true break in oil, but he is suggesting Valvoline VR1 w/zinc and that is what he is using for the initial fill. He is going to pressure prime it. Not sure what weight yet. He said the zinc isn't really needed on our engines but will help with wear.

Anyone have experience with this oil?

I used it.... I like the vr1... with zinc

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by G8One2

Your chamber volumes areabout 2.5cc smaller than what they were before. Probably gain you a half point of compression from stock.

Yeah, I was wondering about that. I asked him about pushrod length. He told me since it was such a small amount it will be fine.

[G8One2]

Zinc can kill your cats and gum up your oxygen sensors. More so on the catalysts though. I would suggest NOT using an oil made with high amounts of zinc. Break in oils aren't needed in modern engines. Just break it in and change the oil after a couple hundred miles. Keeping an eye on things during that time.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by G8One2

Zinc can kill your cats and gum up your oxygen sensors. More so on the catalysts though. I would suggest NOT using an oil made with high amounts of zinc. Break in oils aren't needed in modern engines. Just break it in and change the oil after a couple hundred miles. Keeping an eye on things during that time.

No cats for me. But I do know about the O2 sensors. It crazy how much this topic can get some people riled up (not you, but the internet in general). Some folks swear by zinc in an LS/roller engine and others say it does nothing to help. There is one member on this site that will lose his mind if you say you don't need a break in oil in an LS.

Honestly, I don't know either way. But since I have no cats and I can get a pair of Delphi sensors for $90, I would rather be safe and run a zinc oil for break in. I am only going to run it a few hundred miles anyhow. I have done a bit of research into zinc levels in different oils and breakin oils. I think the VR1 was like 1400 ppm +/-. There are some brands that some people consider dangerous to run, such as Lucas Break In Oil. That one is almost 4000 ppm zinc. I guess the rationale behind that is that after you exceed a certain threshold of ppm of zinc it starts to actually cause wear.

After the break in I will run a regular conventional oil until around 2,000 miles when I will switch back to my favorite...Mobil 1 5w30 EP or maybe Driven/Gibbs.