Installing new Clutch and Rear Main Housing/Seal

[dma05]

Hey everyone! I have some questions as I'm about to install a new Monster S 3 Disc Clutch in my 2011 2SS M6.


I have searched and can't find the answers to these (maybe cause they are stupid questions?)


1. Do I need to drain the transmission fluid first before doing the clutch install or is that done after the install? I plan on replacing the fluid with Redline D4 ATF, but wasn't sure if draining first was the answer.


2. Do I need to drain the engine oil in order to replace the complete Rear Main Housing (comes with a new seal)? I figure since I'm in there, might as well as change the whole housing for insurance. It's cheap enough to do anyway.


3. Does anyone have torque specs for all bolts that are being removed?


4. Anything else I should be changing out (fluid or parts) while doing this install?


5. Anything to look out for or any tips?


thanks,

[fz4k98]

Drain the trans before removing.
Add a remote slave cylinder bleed line to the slave before installing to help bleed the clutch system.

I split the body and frame to gain enough clearance for the top bolt and additional room to remove the trans from the firewall I leave the 6 frame bolts in but only about 3 turns while lowering the frame to keep everything aligned.

Depending on the driveshaft type, i mark the transmisssion to driveshaft and the driveshaft to rear end to make sure they go back in the same way to reduce vibration.

Go through and list all the bolt torques before to make reinstall quicker.

dont forget to lube the transmission splines (check with clutch manufacturer for type of lube)

[dma05]

Originally Posted by fz4k98

Drain the trans before removing.
Add a remote slave cylinder bleed line to the slave before installing to help bleed the clutch system.

I split the body and frame to gain enough clearance for the top bolt and additional room to remove the trans from the firewall I leave the 6 frame bolts in but only about 3 turns while lowering the frame to keep everything aligned.

Depending on the driveshaft type, i mark the transmisssion to driveshaft and the driveshaft to rear end to make sure they go back in the same way to reduce vibration.

Go through and list all the bolt torques before to make reinstall quicker.

dont forget to lube the transmission splines (check with clutch manufacturer for type of lube)

Thanks for the tips! I did buy the Remote Bleeder system.

[hawkyV8]

Definitely get the remote bleeder. The one from Tick is cheap and is long enough to reach the strut tower for mounting purposes.



Replace rear main, rear cover gasket, and pilot bearing while you have the trans off.


Don't forget to disconnect the shifter before you start dropping the trans.

[CamaroCracka]

If you are putting in a triple disk, you must intend to put some power to it. Tick and Monster sell a billet bearing support for the slave cylinder.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you are putting in a triple disk, you must intend to put some power to it. Tick and Monster sell a billet bearing support for the slave cylinder.

Yea, for $80 I would do that also. My slave didnt last long and I had to drop the trans when I smelled the plastic melting. Thought it was clutch, but turned out to be the support inside the slave. Cost me time, labor and another slave cylinder. It's worth the $80.

You should change your brake fluid when installing a new slave cylinder. They share the same reservoir and the brakes makes the fluid nasty quick. It sucks, but I would suck all the old stuff out, and fill with new fluid, then bleed everything.

You dont NEED to drain the engine oil but it might be a good time to do an oil change. I would swap the cover, then drain the old oil to carry out any crap that you might drop in there while working.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you are putting in a triple disk, you must intend to put some power to it. Tick and Monster sell a billet bearing support for the slave cylinder.

I’m currently producing 647hp and plan to go more as I build the car.
I also ordered the billet bearing when I ordered the kit. I ordered everything I could so I wouldn’t have to do the install twice.

Thanks for your tips!

[dma05]

Originally Posted by hawkyV8

Definitely get the remote bleeder. The one from Tick is cheap and is long enough to reach the strut tower for mounting purposes.



Replace rear main, rear cover gasket, and pilot bearing while you have the trans off.


Don't forget to disconnect the shifter before you start dropping the trans.

Ive been watching videos on how to take the trans out. I won’t miss the shifter part 😁

I ordered the complete rear main housing which comes with new gaskets and bolts. I did that for the front when I did my Cam and Supercharger install as well.

Thanks for the help!

[dma05]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Yea, for $80 I would do that also. My slave didnt last long and I had to drop the trans when I smelled the plastic melting. Thought it was clutch, but turned out to be the support inside the slave. Cost me time, labor and another slave cylinder. It's worth the $80.

You should change your brake fluid when installing a new slave cylinder. They share the same reservoir and the brakes makes the fluid nasty quick. It sucks, but I would suck all the old stuff out, and fill with new fluid, then bleed everything.

You dont NEED to drain the engine oil but it might be a good time to do an oil change. I would swap the cover, then drain the old oil to carry out any crap that you might drop in there while working.

I didn’t even think about changing the brake fluid, but I will add that to my list!
I was trying to avoid the oil change since I just did it about 500 miles ago. Oh well, new oil it is!

[dma05]

I also found a common oil leak from the oil cooler. I’ll be replacing that gasket and the blue O-rings as well since I’m draining the oil.

Might as well finally wire up my AEM Air/Fuel gauge while I’m under the car.

I really appreciate all the replies so far. Thanks!