Stage 2 vs stage 3 cam

[VRCamaroSS]

I am going back and fourth on choosing between BTR stage 2 v2 v2 and BTR stage 3 v2 cam. I will only be a street car. Mostly city highway driving but will occasionally drive back home which is roughly 6.5-7 hours of highway driving. I am not trying to get max HP I am going for chop and both achieve that. I was originally looking at the TSP bald eagle cam before looking into BTR. I will of course be doing DOD/VVT delete and having stock heads ported, ARH headers, corsa catback. Other things while taking apart is oil pump melling 10296, Che trunnion kit, and torque converter based on what cam I choose. Camaro currently only has 14200k miles on it. Pops finally decide to hand it over to me after getting a new project vehicle (Japanese K truck) and to focus on fixing my mom’s 74 Camaro.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

My Camaro is only a street car, and I am running a TSP Stage 3 cam with a 112 LSA, stock heads. Numbers are in my sig.. I went with the biggest cam I could without having to fly cut the pistons. And I still get pretty good fuel mileage. And she is a ton of fun. Either cam you pick should be good for what you want. The 3 will net you some more power over the 2..

[VRCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

My Camaro is only a street car, and I am running a TSP Stage 3 cam with a 112 LSA, stock heads. Numbers are in my sig.. I went with the biggest cam I could without having to fly cut the pistons. And I still get pretty good fuel mileage. And she is a ton of fun. Either cam you pick should be good for what you want. The 3 will net you some more power over the 2..

When I look at the dyno graphs on BTR’s website they are not that much different but they are just graphs. I don’t want to have the shoulda coulda woulda moment. Been reading and watching videos on pushrod lengths cause even though btr says stock 7.400 I should verify even if not milling heads just porting and it’s the smart thing to do. I’ve been saving for the moment I finally got the car which I should’ve been buying earlier it would’ve been cheaper as prices on everything has gone up. I kid you not I bought the magnaflow exhaust that’s on it for him for Father’s Day and it was $700. Right now same catback is $1500. But switching to the corsa cause I want quad tips and mufflers for when headers go on.

[CamaroDreams76]

So its an auto car. If it was a manual the bigger cam would be an absolute no brainer. Seems like you have it pretty well thought out, especially with bringing up a converter. You can get away with a bigger cam when you have a higher stall. 1JEWLDSSRS is definitely a pretty valuable resource on this one since he has a huge cam and a very high stall.

And yes verify pushrod length. Very smart to do that.

[Batmanntexas]

Agree with JEWLDSSRS, if on the fence between cams, go with the bigger cam.....ALWAYS!! Since you are doing a converter, there really isn't a down side. Gotta love the chop chop chop....

-Scott

[1LE_Justin]

I would go with the BTR Stage 2 v2. The dyno graphs on BTR's website only shows a 7-8 hp difference between the two cams. Not worth it to me unless you start tracking the car and only driving it on the weekends. But since it's just a street car especially an auto I would stick with the Stage 2 for sure. Regardless of ported heads or not.
If you are only worried about the chop sound, don't bother because both of the new cams sound identical lol. I have the BTR 3 with Frankenstein 280cc heads, but I only drive mine once a week on the track or strip for fun.
Just my 2 cents.

[VRCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by 1LE_Justin

I would go with the BTR Stage 2 v2. The dyno graphs on BTR's website only shows a 7-8 hp difference between the two cams. Not worth it to me unless you start tracking the car and only driving it on the weekends. But since it's just a street car especially an auto I would stick with the Stage 2 for sure. Regardless of ported heads or not.
If you are only worried about the chop sound, don't bother because both of the new cams sound identical lol. I have the BTR 3 with Frankenstein 280cc heads, but I only drive mine once a week on the track or strip for fun.
Just my 2 cents.

I already feel it’s a fun car to drive and don’t want to take the fun out of it by over doing it. Of course I say that while I just bought a bunch of suspension stuff to try and make my version of a 1LE. Ridetech coilovers, DSE adjustable LCA’s, adjustable toe rods, adjustable trailing arms and sway bars. Still looking at cradle mounts thinking solid. Have also got Apex wheels 19x10.5 and 19x11. Living in MN I am somewhat close to Road America that I would like to take it to at least once or a couple times.

[1LE_Justin]

I moved to Wisconsin and only live 45 min away from Road America! Small world!

[VRCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by 1LE_Justin

I moved to Wisconsin and only live 45 min away from Road America! Small world!

It would still be a 5hr plus drive for me. But it would be one of my goals to do with the car. Maybe hit Brainerd too but not much of a drag person but would be cool to do too.

[zz430camaro]

Stage 2 all the way

[Kings]

Stage 2. Bigger is not always better when it comes to cams and a street car. Especially with an auto.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by VRCamaroSS

When I look at the dyno graphs on BTR’s website they are not that much different but they are just graphs. I don’t want to have the shoulda coulda woulda moment. Been reading and watching videos on pushrod lengths cause even though btr says stock 7.400 I should verify even if not milling heads just porting and it’s the smart thing to do. I’ve been saving for the moment I finally got the car which I should’ve been buying earlier it would’ve been cheaper as prices on everything has gone up. I kid you not I bought the magnaflow exhaust that’s on it for him for Father’s Day and it was $700. Right now same catback is $1500. But switching to the corsa cause I want quad tips and mufflers for when headers go on.

Yeah, I'm running the BTR 7.400 pushrods in mine, that's all we needed. But as always, it's a safe thing to check the length needed. And on the cam, yeah they are just graphs, but each engine is unique when built, so even though there isn't much difference in the numbers on paper, I'd go with the bigger one since you are doing a stall converter, you might want the extra HP if and when you might run at the track, or just for street fun. This way you won't be kicking yourself and saying, "shoulda got the bigger cam"... And when it's tuned properly, it will drive just fine. You'll love it. And if you are looking for the "chop" the LSA and overlap will give you that sound. I'm running a 112 LSA, but a 111 would be more aggressive sounding, but I'm good with what have.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams76

So its an auto car. If it was a manual the bigger cam would be an absolute no brainer. Seems like you have it pretty well thought out, especially with bringing up a converter. You can get away with a bigger cam when you have a higher stall. 1JEWLDSSRS is definitely a pretty valuable resource on this one since he has a huge cam and a very high stall.

And yes verify pushrod length. Very smart to do that.

Thank you brother! I appreciate that. I try to be of good help..

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Batmanntexas

Agree with JEWLDSSRS, if on the fence between cams, go with the bigger cam.....ALWAYS!! Since you are doing a converter, there really isn't a down side. Gotta love the chop chop chop....

-Scott

Thank you sir! Just trying to be of help, and share what I've experienced.