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#155 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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I have a measurement question. What is the measurement from the front edge of the hood, at the point, the the tip of the heat extractor, as it sits in the hole. The 16 and 3/8 measurement has too many variables , since there is about an inch and a half of plastic between the edge and the bolts. Any help would be grateful. |
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#156 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 ''RS1'' my own package Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 237
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2010 1LT A6, Hurst shifter and handle, 3pc rear spoiler, streetscene splitter, ss front end with ZL1 grill, ABL , footwell and cup holder lighting, ss cat back exhaust, Eibach lowering springs, custom engine cover, 4pk gauges, speedhut A pilliar pod and gauges, metra kit and kenwood stereo, 2014 ss hood scoop with stock rain tray, 3D Carbon fender vents, rear lighted bowtie, and ultra gauge.
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#157 |
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ICANHAZ
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Was put on by my guys at Glover Customs back on March 5th
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#158 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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I think I am going to edge the heat extractor with 3M tape once I decide if I am going to paint it or leave it Black. The thin foam doesn't seem strong enough. |
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#159 | |
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#160 |
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Could someone with this part provide the measurements for the areas i have marked in red please?
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#161 |
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#162 |
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Thanks! Question I have and the reason I was wanting this. Would it be possible to leave some of the metal from the inner part of the hood to bolt the extractor to? Sort of like the 2014 hood is made. I am away at work now so it will be a week before I can look at my hood to get an idea.I have been looking at pictures of the 2014 hood and 2010 hood wondering if it would be possible.
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#163 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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#164 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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That is a new hood, Your hood will look nothing like that when you remove the liner. Our hoods are very thin with very little cross bracing and the cross bracing that is there, is held together with the top with a foam sealant.
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#165 |
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Not really, the bolts sit lower that the edge that site on the hood. They are recessed. You can see in the picture below the bolts stick down further. I thought about doing that also until getting the actual piece in my hands.
IMO the factory tray underneath looks the best. It is not ideal for function as GM designed it to be removable and the way it is used to hold the top piece on It is no longer removable... It restricts air flow when on and the is why GM made it removable for when you are at the track. But the difference in daily diving is most likely none. This is one of my favorite mods to date and I am sure you will love it no matter how it is mounted. (eddiefuzz must had been typing the same time I was LOL.. )
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#166 |
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thanks for the info guys. I just kept looking at all the pictures and was wondering if the inner part of the hood could be used to attach it. Looks like the bolts would be in the areas I circled in this picture. Didn't know if there would be enough gap to make it work or not.
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#167 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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Jerry, I am trying to get pictures from my phone onto Camaro5. Fyi, The 2014 heat extractor sits 24.4 cm from the tip of the hood to the tip of the extractor, mine is 42.5 cm. It's all most opposite. 42.5 in front, 23 cm in back. The way I did it, it's as far back as the extractor could be, before the bolts would hit the gasket at the firewall. It sit directly over the motor, the drip tray dumps in front of the throttle body but before the Radiator. Another FYI, go to a hardware store and get yourself three sets of........TOILET BOLTS!!!
No joking, there is another poster that bought longer bolts to hold the extractor and the drip tray at the same time. His Idea is great, I just couldn't find 2.25 inch bolts with a flat head to fit into that slot. Toilet bolts have a flat rectangular head that locks into that slot , so it won't spin when tightening. I used the aluminum flat bars, drilled holes, and used the nuts that come with the toilet bolts. Then I bought 6 WING NUTS, only can use 4, to hold the drip tray separately , which makes it removable in nice weather. I bought 5/16 X 2-1/4 brass bolt sets, I didn't need them for the middle bar since I'm only using the two front and the two back bolts to hold the drip tray on. There is a poster that uses all six, but he's not using wing nuts. |
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#168 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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here
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