2014 Heat extractor on a 2010 hood

[xc_SS/RS]

I want to do this really badly but I'm incredibly scared and afraid I'd mess my hood up. Anyone in the MD DC VA area that has done this? I can provide food and beer!

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

I want to do this really badly but I'm incredibly scared and afraid I'd mess my hood up. Anyone in the MD DC VA area that has done this? I can provide food and beer!

I too was scared about it took 6 months of reading this thread to pull the trigger.

Just take your time and premeasure several times until you feel comfortable with the location of the vent.

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by chozn4service

I did.




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Cost and part # plz!

Thx

[chozn4service]

I can't advise on part number as my shop ordered it and I picked it up. Cost was like $40, I think and that was their discounted cost


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[NotYetLegend]

Hey guys, I recently did this install roughly following the advice on pg. 1 of this thread. Made the template the exact same way as described by the OP, worked great, wish the cardboard was sturdier but it works. Measured down the recommended 16 and 3/8” from the top of the hood to the outside rear of the template, taped her down and traced the inside with a silver sharpie (black car).

For whoever just asked about part number, I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com using this part number, 22828242

URL below to exactly the page I ordered from:

http://www.gmoutletparts.com/oe-gm/2...h_str=22828242

As has been stated, this part number ships you the extractor only. It has 6 bolts pre-attached to it, you DO have to go buy the 6 needed M6-1.00 nylon nuts to secure the extractor. I found these easily at Lowes in one of the drawers in Hardware, sold in packages of 4 or 5 so you will need two.

We started cutting the hole initially with a Dremel (mine is actually Blue Hawk brand...). The cutoff wheels I had were way too flimsy so we left to go back to Lowes and get Dremel-branded "reinforced" cutting wheels. They were much thicker and only came like 5 per package. You will need one or two packages to finish the cut. These wheels worked great; they wear down until they are too small (in diameter) to keep using, but they don't shatter after 30 seconds like the ones I started with.

After we got new cutting wheels we blazed through the rest of the detail cutting (from the top). The Dremel wheels are not large enough to also cut through the multiple cross-members under the hood's skin. For this we used a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight with the "metal" cutting blades. We opened the hood and cut from the bottom, using the already dremeled cut as a guide for the blade. This was not fun, the sawzall is a brutal and unwieldy beast, but it cuts through the cross-members like butter. Have someone watch you cut from near one of the side view mirrors, instruct them to flag you if you accidentally start making a "new" cut (blade breaks out of the existing cut).

With the cross-member cutting done the portion of hood within your cut will come right out. Place that to the side and test-fit the extractor. We cut conservative so it was too tight of a fit at first. Put on a new reinforced cutting wheel on the Dremel and "grind" the sides/edges of your cut to slowly enlarge the hole ("grind" meaning to use the side of the wheel, not the edge). Continue to test-fit, find the specific area that is catching, and re-grind as needed until you get a nice tight fit.

At this point the nerve wracking stuff is over with; chill out and drink a beer or something. Next up is cutting the 3/4" aluminum strips (as recommended by the OP) to fit across the 3 pairs of bolts under the extractor (horizontally). We just held the aluminum up under the hood while the extractor was installed and marked the aluminum with sharpie where it grabbed the cross-members sufficiently. Cut to size and drill the necessary holes to accept the bolts. The OP got away with using a 1/4" drill bit, I had to waddle that at quite a bit to get the bolts to slide through easily, aluminum is soft so this was not difficult.

You're done! We used an electric leaf blower to blow out all of the metal shavings from the engine bay, adjusted the 6 mounting bolts for an even fit, closed the hood and gave it a quick polish.

Here is a time lapse video of the whole install, took about 4 hours (since we're newbs), wish I knew how to properly embed this:



P.S. For those of you who want to do this install and are "afraid" of it. This is not actually very difficult, it takes some patience and concentration but in reality it is not as big of a deal as you may believe. I have spent a bit of time wrenching on cars, BUT this is the first work I have ever done with the literal sheet metal of a car! It's all about making the template properly, if you can do this (it is a simple check by fitting it to the bottom of the extractor) you are almost there. Take your time with the rest and you'll be fine! Feel free to PM me any questions too, happy to help detail any of the bits of this install if it makes you feel more comfortable with it. Cheers!

[Angrybird 12]

When I put in my ACS TL1 insert I just used my Jigsaw with a sheet metal blade. It cut through the hood and bracing easily and never wore out. Sounds like the dremel is a pain and you use a lot of cutting disks.

Could someone tell me the actual measurements on the insert? I would also like to know the depth with and without the water diverter. Thanks

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by Angrybird 12

When I put in my ACS TL1 insert I just used my Jigsaw with a sheet metal blade. It cut through the hood and bracing easily and never wore out. Sounds like the dremel is a pain and you use a lot of cutting disks.

Could someone tell me the actual measurements on the insert? I would also like to know the depth with and without the water diverter. Thanks

Jigsaw would be a great choice. I own one but it was out at the woodshop in another county so I made do with my existing Dremel-clone (purchased for flow-tie creation/install) and sawzall (which I bought for my axleback install). I did not order the water diverter but I can measure the extractor for you at some point in the next few days if you want?

[Angrybird 12]

Originally Posted by NotYetLegend

Jigsaw would be a great choice. I own one but it was out at the woodshop in another county so I made do with my existing Dremel-clone (purchased for flow-tie creation/install) and sawzall (which I bought for my axleback install). I did not order the water diverter but I can measure the extractor for you at some point in the next few days if you want?

Thanks

[xc_SS/RS]

How would this work on hoods with the vinyl stripes? I imagine I would possibly need to replace them?

[Snidely Whiplash]

Originally Posted by Jerry7297

Its just a small hole you can do it.



Thank you



Thank you I think it came out pretty good. Does anyone see a problem with water going onto the Throttle body???

My 2014 has no issue with water in the top engine area.

[chozn4service]

I had the Hex Vents before and had vinyl rally stripes and you should tape the area you're working on with painters tape and draw your cut line on it and cut. Your stripes will still be there in tact minus the vent area or you can heat them up with a hair dryer and remove them and purchase the 2015 grill stripe kit from Big Worm Graphics.

Also the TB is a closed unit so no water can get into it. Also the rain allows for water to be dumped down by the radiator motor side.


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[Jerry7297]

Originally Posted by NotYetLegend

Hey guys, I recently did this install roughly following the advice on pg. 1 of this thread. Made the template the exact same way as described by the OP, worked great, wish the cardboard was sturdier but it works. Measured down the recommended 16 and 3/8” from the top of the hood to the outside rear of the template, taped her down and traced the inside with a silver sharpie (black car).

For whoever just asked about part number, I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com using this part number, 22828242

URL below to exactly the page I ordered from:

http://www.gmoutletparts.com/oe-gm/2...h_str=22828242

As has been stated, this part number ships you the extractor only. It has 6 bolts pre-attached to it, you DO have to go buy the 6 needed M6-1.00 nylon nuts to secure the extractor. I found these easily at Lowes in one of the drawers in Hardware, sold in packages of 4 or 5 so you will need two.

We started cutting the hole initially with a Dremel (mine is actually Blue Hawk brand...). The cutoff wheels I had were way too flimsy so we left to go back to Lowes and get Dremel-branded "reinforced" cutting wheels. They were much thicker and only came like 5 per package. You will need one or two packages to finish the cut. These wheels worked great; they wear down until they are too small (in diameter) to keep using, but they don't shatter after 30 seconds like the ones I started with.

After we got new cutting wheels we blazed through the rest of the detail cutting (from the top). The Dremel wheels are not large enough to also cut through the multiple cross-members under the hood's skin. For this we used a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight with the "metal" cutting blades. We opened the hood and cut from the bottom, using the already dremeled cut as a guide for the blade. This was not fun, the sawzall is a brutal and unwieldy beast, but it cuts through the cross-members like butter. Have someone watch you cut from near one of the side view mirrors, instruct them to flag you if you accidentally start making a "new" cut (blade breaks out of the existing cut).

With the cross-member cutting done the portion of hood within your cut will come right out. Place that to the side and test-fit the extractor. We cut conservative so it was too tight of a fit at first. Put on a new reinforced cutting wheel on the Dremel and "grind" the sides/edges of your cut to slowly enlarge the hole ("grind" meaning to use the side of the wheel, not the edge). Continue to test-fit, find the specific area that is catching, and re-grind as needed until you get a nice tight fit.

At this point the nerve wracking stuff is over with; chill out and drink a beer or something. Next up is cutting the 3/4" aluminum strips (as recommended by the OP) to fit across the 3 pairs of bolts under the extractor (horizontally). We just held the aluminum up under the hood while the extractor was installed and marked the aluminum with sharpie where it grabbed the cross-members sufficiently. Cut to size and drill the necessary holes to accept the bolts. The OP got away with using a 1/4" drill bit, I had to waddle that at quite a bit to get the bolts to slide through easily, aluminum is soft so this was not difficult.

You're done! We used an electric leaf blower to blow out all of the metal shavings from the engine bay, adjusted the 6 mounting bolts for an even fit, closed the hood and gave it a quick polish.

Here is a time lapse video of the whole install, took about 4 hours (since we're newbs), wish I knew how to properly embed this:



P.S. For those of you who want to do this install and are "afraid" of it. This is not actually very difficult, it takes some patience and concentration but in reality it is not as big of a deal as you may believe. I have spent a bit of time wrenching on cars, BUT this is the first work I have ever done with the literal sheet metal of a car! It's all about making the template properly, if you can do this (it is a simple check by fitting it to the bottom of the extractor) you are almost there. Take your time with the rest and you'll be fine! Feel free to PM me any questions too, happy to help detail any of the bits of this install if it makes you feel more comfortable with it. Cheers!

Awesome Video. Glad it worked out. Looks like it came out great

[Jerry7297]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

How would this work on hoods with the vinyl stripes? I imagine I would possibly need to replace them?

Page 2 1/2 way down are some pics of the vent with stripes. If you tape up your hood real good you should be fine and would not mess up your stripes. If they are aftermarket stripes you may want to cut them 1st lightly with a razor knife before cutting so you dont pull them up with a saw blade. Just a suggestion, If they are factory stripes I would just cut right through them.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=346744&page=2

[Avalnch]

Does anyone know if the entire 2014 hood assembly with the extractor will bolt right up to a 2010 SS/RS?