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#939 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Got my Dot 4 master cylinder cap! At least THAT went on perfectly:
![]() ![]() -Don
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747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#940 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Hendrix Offet Bushing Install Continued
OK, primed and painted the cradle:
![]() ![]() Prepared the cover -- ground and then smoothed it as best I could: ![]() ![]() Ready to install tomorrow -- too dark now ('Too dark, I go no further' Dracula, Dead and Loving it)... -Don
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747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 11-06-2016 at 10:39 PM. |
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#941 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 893
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Don,
im curious to see what real world testing results will be on the tru trac. im sure there is a shop around here that can do it, but if these guys do good work, i might as well send it to them. i dont want to change the gear. i just want the bearings, seals, and the tru trac. tell em i want the poe boy discount lol. |
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#942 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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LOL, I know what you mean ;o)
Getting these bushings to line up -- now that is a pain.... -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#943 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Hendrix Offset Diff Bushing Install Continued
Well, after grinding for clearance, I was finally able to get the LPW cover to fit. To make it easier to install the diff, I removed the toe rod and upper control arm bolts on both sides. This moved the axles about 2 " per side away from the diff -- took 5 minutes to remove those -- well worth the effort:
![]() ![]() Finally, the rear diff bolt went in -- looking @ the clearances, I can tell grinding the tail like I did gave me more room (for the Hendrix bushings) for sure: Bolt in: ![]() Did the driver's side bolt next since it has to be fed from the front to the rear. I used a small block of wood to assist in getting it lined up: ![]() Allright! -- well almost... Driver's side bolt went in! Now, the passengers side. Used the block of wood, started to line things up -- bang -- dropped it again, re-tried -- bang bushing is not lining up on the passengers side: Pushed up until it hits the cradle: ![]() ![]() Lowered back down: ![]() I did verify the bushings were lined up 'centered' with the old ones. Looks like the passengers side of the diffs front is hitting the cradle -- drivers side and rear fit perfect it appears... I'll be calling Hendrix tomorrow to see what they suggest. Looks like the Passenger's side bushing needs to be rotated about 25° to the drivers side to line up the hole -- thus, probably why these bushings have dimples on them ;o) -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 11-06-2016 at 10:26 PM. |
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#944 |
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Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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I am almost positive that this is what FSP had to do to get my ZL1 rear end and bushings installed. I am sorry I didn't mention that to you earlier when we were PMing, but I didn't remember till I read this post. Thomas will clear it up for you tomorrow, great work man!
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
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#945 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Cool and thanks! I'm hoping that I can remove that bushing with ease (it looks like it). I can only assume it needed to be rotated, since its pretty clear it won't fit the way it is ;o).
What I do like is I can easily remove the diff now (I'm using a motorcycle jack and its perfect for this!). I also like the fact I can remove the axles easily and make plenty of room. with this approach, I can have the diff out in about 30 minutes (drive shaft, axles, and diff bolts). I got this down to a science now ;o)... Now, get my protractor out and start doing the 'degree' thing -- I'm betting 25° to 30° rotation to the driver's side will do it. At least the next person doing this will know this can happen ;o)... -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#946 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Well, got off the phone with Thomas Hendrix -- super nice guy. He told me I'm the 'FIRST' with an SS diff to 'ever' call him with an issue like this -- in over 5 year -- what does THAT tell you?
Well, looks like I'm going to have to see if I have SLAG or some 'item' interfering with the passengers side -- may be dimpled or SLAG from welds -- won't know until I get the diff lowered again. He said the bushing MUST be North/South (up and down) so NO twisting of the bushings -- that's good. Now, need to do some 'cradle' magic -- once it stops raining here ;o) I'll take a pic of the passenger's side of the cradle to show what I encountered and what I need to resolve... -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#947 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Ok, did a fitment check today. I added some soft pipe dope on the diff where the new bushing is and setup to see where I'm hitting. First, I addressed any slag -- found one area and cleaned it off -- you can see on the bushing where it was:
![]() Next I pushed the diff up until it made contact. Here is where the diff is hitting: ![]() Notice the 'triangle' shape? That is where it is hitting. There is about 3/8 " that I'd have to move the cradle up. So now, I have to decide: Bang it out so I can use the Hendrix or replace the bushings with no-offset delrin. For me, as much as I like the Hendrix, I'm seriouslly thinking of going with a non-offset delrin bushing. I don't want to have to drop the cradle and 'hope' I get all the clearances just right. The delrin will keep the diff from moving and that really is the most important part. I guess I'm the first one with an SS diff to have this issue... -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 11-10-2016 at 07:58 PM. |
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#948 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Went ahead and order the BMR 'race' delrin bushing kit (BK026). After looking @ the location and how much I'd have to 'push' the metal up to make clearance, I figured I'd be better off with delrin and normal offset IF I can't get the clearance. I don't like having to make that change, but for me, I'd really need a torch to soften up that area -- and that means taking the cradle off. Installing the diff was only going to take about 15 minutes after I got back from GPI. Mike even asked if I had the room -- my initial measurements looked correct, but, it appears the right side is 1/4 to 3/8's off.
SO, I'm the first SS diff/cradle that is not a 'direct' fit for the HE offset bushings -- go figure... -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 11-12-2016 at 06:17 PM. |
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#949 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 893
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is that cover making it worse? thats the only thing thats different on yours.
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#950 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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No, the cover is fine. Lots of room and nothing is binding. I actually measured the distance on the passengers side and sure enough, it's off by 3/8 of an inch. I even have an inspection camara and routed it up there and I can see it hitting the cradle. It's possible my cradle has an additional dimple or rounded corner but it's hitting right where the face of the bushing rests.
I'll see if I can get a pic. -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#951 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 893
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i want to get the offset bushings. my CVs scream coming up outta sinkhole. i know they are shot. ive got the new axles to put in so i want the offset bushings. im hoping they fit. i want to get solid cradle bushings too. the delrin ones are like 6 or 7 hundred. the solid aluminum ones are less than 400. for my car i dont care about vibration. you have rode in the brick so you know what im talking about.
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#952 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Solid aluminum is the way to go.
I have a pic showing where the diff is hitting the cradle. I used plumber's putty and I can show it on the diff -- its real obvious. Like I said, mine may be different and I may try an air hammer to see if that will give me clearance. Here is a pic: ![]() Notice the flat spot in the putty? That is where the diff is hitting the cradle. That is the 'curved' part that is formed on my cradle where it transitions. -Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 11-11-2016 at 12:34 PM. |
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