DIY Raptor Dual Stage Shift Light.

[ITGuy11]

Did you put the shift light in high sensitivity mode?

[BLACK10]

his connectors are not making good contact, pretty sure thats the problem

[MasterZ]

Originally Posted by BLACK10

his connectors are not making good contact, pretty sure thats the problem

Wasnt the problem, luckily enough before I starting pulling things apart I checked something else.

Originally Posted by ITGuy11

Did you put the shift light in high sensitivity mode?

You hit the nail on the head I had remembered reading something about the pickup setting. But I was using a set of instructions downloaded from Raptor, funny they didnt mention anything in their online instructions for the dual mode lights about having to set it up for a weak or strong signal..

so I went and found my original paperwork and there it was... I adjusted the program to for a weak signal pickup and viola.... we are in buisness!!!!


Thanks for the help guys!!! I agree Raptor needs to be a little more detailed in their instructions. The light over all works great and I cant wait to try it out on the track.

[BLACK10]

damn, i didnt know there was an adjustment for that, maybe becuase its the newer version??


glad you got it working

[RonBennett]

I have the newer version, it works now but flashes when the throttle is blipped. This has got to be the most frustrating thing I have ever dealt with on any vehicle, and that includes tuning rochester quadrajets... (now I am dating myself)

[slick rick]

Thanks for the write up. I used it to install my shift light

[ThunderSS]

Originally Posted by slick rick

Thanks for the write up. I used it to install my shift light

[Blue70SS]

Originally Posted by MasterZ

Wasnt the problem, luckily enough before I starting pulling things apart I checked something else.

You hit the nail on the head I had remembered reading something about the pickup setting. But I was using a set of instructions downloaded from Raptor, funny they didnt mention anything in their online instructions for the dual mode lights about having to set it up for a weak or strong signal..

so I went and found my original paperwork and there it was... I adjusted the program to for a weak signal pickup and viola.... we are in buisness!!!!


Thanks for the help guys!!! I agree Raptor needs to be a little more detailed in their instructions. The light over all works great and I cant wait to try it out on the track.

I need to finish the reinstall of mine with the newer amplifier version still. You obviously got yours to work ..... but are you getting the occasional quick light flashes when throttle is pushed and shift RPM point not reached yet? And your's is dual mode w/launch feature that works? I didn't read through everything, so you may have already stated (in a hurry prepping for Cfest)

Thanks

[TornadoSS]

Just bumping this awesome DIY install for the Dual mode Raptor. I purchased a Gen II with the digital readout, it must have the amplifier built to it now. So far both the launch and shift modes seem to be working without any issues or lights blipping intermittently. I used an old ProClip phone mount and mounted it to the drivers side center console near 4 pk gauges still well within my peripheral vision. I will eventually add a plug so that it can be removed if I want. Thanks for the install write up!!! It made things much easier.

[slick rick]

Cool setup with the ProClip

[TornadoSS]

Originally Posted by slick rick

Cool setup with the ProClip

Thanks! I was driving around and the thought occurred to me "Dang, I wonder if I can still see it where it is mounted with my Helmet on?!" Got home and tried visibility with a full face helmet on, Good to go!

[caverman]

I'm going to update this thread with my install of the Raptor Dual Mode shifter light.

First, I had issues finding the video of removing the plug on the PCM. It had been deleted by the owner. I did eventually find it but they forget to mention about the button so I figured I would post some pics.

The red tab is a pull up/push down locking mechanism. You'll want to pull up on it to unlock it. Then you'll want to push in on the button just above the red tab at the same time you'll need to pull up on the main lever of the plug. Then you'll want to wiggle the plug a little from left to right and then pull up some from the bottom. Put your hand on the PCM because it will try to come off of it's clip as well.

You will also want to remove the cover that goes on top of all the wires. There is a small locking mechanism at the bottom on both sides. Just use a screwdriver to pry up on the tab to release it from both sides and then it will pull off. This will give you acces to tap into the wires.

[caverman]

The open drilled a whole to gain access into the engine compartment but there is already a whole with a plug from the factory. It's located just to the right of the mastercylinder and above where the main battery cable goes into the firewall. It's hard to see, you pretty much just feel for it. You an then push in on the plug and it will fall through into the driver's area. I had a hard time finding it at first but after pulling some on the firewall insulation on inside the car up under the dash it finally fell to the floor.

I then used a coat hanger from the engine compartment and it will go right through. Then I taped the wires to the coat hanger and pulled it through. Super easy. I then drilled small hole in the plug and ran my wires through it. This time I flipped the plug so that it will pull out through the engine compartment side.

I then ran my wires all the way over the passenger side by tucking into the insulation along the fire wall.

[caverman]

I used at mini fuse Tap to get my switchable positive (don't forget to put in two fuses). I used F17 on the driver's side dash fuse panel. I used the bolt that the OP pointed to for the negative.

When you cut the Black and Red wire to fit the area right by the fuse panel, keep it. You won't have enough wire to run all the way to the PCM wires. However, if you add on the wire that you cut off there is plenty. I used Black to extend the White wire and Red to extend the Green wire.

Here are some pics of a Fuse Tap (I got from the local auto parts store) as well as a close up of the fuse panel. The fuse panel cover just pulls off by hand. You have to give it a good pull to get it off.