Forged Pistons and Rods

[eLeSthree]

I'm at the point where I'm going to have to stiffen up the bottom end. Well, maybe I'm past it.
I'm looking at forged pistons and rods, and plan to reuse the stock crank. My goal is a street-able 900-950whp. I've never been to the track, but do plan on going occasionally.

I have a couple concerns.

1.Regarding the different rod lengths, 6.125 and 6.098. I assume that I can only use a 6.125 rod with a piston designed for it. Same with the stock rod length 6.098, must use a piston designed for it. But both will result in the same total length, correct?

2.Also, about compression. I'm running a centri blower and will probably be dropping a few pulley sizes, and increasing boost. What is the ideal compression ratio?

3. What cc is the stock ls3 head?

[TheInfamouSS]

1. One thing I learned is ALWAYS just measure for push rods. It's always better to double check and make sure you get the right ones.

2. I will be around the 9.x:1 compression ratio with my forged pistons and rods with stock heads.

3) 68.5 cc .

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by TheInfamouSS

1. One thing I learned is ALWAYS just measure for push rods. It's always better to double check and make sure you get the right ones.

2. I will be around the 9.x:1 compression ratio with my forged pistons and rods with stock heads.

3) 68.5 cc .

What CC piston did you chose?

[DSMer1]

1. Yes, use a piston with the pin height designed for the length rod you are using. They end up being the same overall length.
2. What fuel are you using? I'm building a motor right now and am right about 10:1 with high airflow but I always run pump E at the minimum.
3. As stated, about 68cc on virgin heads

What block are you planning on using? If you are truly planning on being at or above 900whp, the factory aluminum block should be looked at. Although it will take it for a little while, the factory aluminum block will not survive a long time at those power levels.
I know Joe blow and his cousin and his neighbors friend have all done it and it has been 'fine', hell I've been there. The fact is the stock aluminum block will not stay true long at those power levels.
TSP has a very affordable option for sleeving the aluminum blocks, $2300 for a brand new block sleeved to start and I think they will sleeve your existing block as well.
There is always the choose of iron as well.

I was just faced with this problem. My logic was saying 'but I've been making xxx power on a bone stock long block for a long time'. The fact is the stock aluminum block is just barley holding on

It sounds like some bigger power is in your future, I'll look forward to hearing about it!

[TheInfamouSS]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

What CC piston did you chose?

I went with -11cc pistons. I am going to Private Message you now.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by DSMer1

1. Yes, use a piston with the pin height designed for the length rod you are using. They end up being the same overall length.
2. What fuel are you using? I'm building a motor right now and am right about 10:1 with high airflow but I always run pump E at the minimum.
3. As stated, about 68cc on virgin heads

What block are you planning on using? If you are truly planning on being at or above 900whp, the factory aluminum block should be looked at. Although it will take it for a little while, the factory aluminum block will not survive a long time at those power levels.
I know Joe blow and his cousin and his neighbors friend have all done it and it has been 'fine', hell I've been there. The fact is the stock aluminum block will not stay true long at those power levels.
TSP has a very affordable option for sleeving the aluminum blocks, $2300 for a brand new block sleeved to start and I think they will sleeve your existing block as well.
There is always the choose of iron as well.

I was just faced with this problem. My logic was saying 'but I've been making xxx power on a bone stock long block for a long time'. The fact is the stock aluminum block is just barley holding on

It sounds like some bigger power is in your future, I'll look forward to hearing about it!

The pump E here is about 70%, and easy to get, so I'll continue to run that.
I'm trying to price out the cost of a piston/rod upgrade compared to the TSP 6.0 gen4 iron shortblock. With TSP rods/crank and weisco pistons, with arp main studs and rod bolts its about $4800.

Just the piston/rods might cost me half that after machine shop costs and then having the car apart for much longer... Might have to bite the bullet and get the short block.

[Big Biscuits]

To bring this back up as I am going to build a standby engine just in case. I found a stock LY6 with 100k miles local and I am gonna build a stroker out of it. Truck burnt, but the short block and heads are fine. $500 pull out. Can’t beat that. Should be able to go .005 over with a hone and block check from the machine shop. Tsp and K1 stuff seems to hold up. We shall see.

[Greenhornet2]

I started looking into this as well for future. I'm thinking I found forged 416 short blocks for 5kish i'm thinking its worth it to go that route as i might go TT if i blow this up and push for around 1khp. I just barely started looking at this though i haven't done a lot of research yet.