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Old 08-24-2020, 10:46 AM   #1
mSStrblSStr39
 
Drives: 2014 Chevy Camaro 2SS
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2014 SS alignment issue

So I lowered my car with BMR 1.4 springs and needed to get it aligned. I had to buy the SPC bolts to be able to get the back into spec. While at the shop the tech told me he couldn't get the top drivers side stock bolt out due to the gas tank being in the way. Anyone ever heard of this before?
I've seen a few threads on needing to get the bolts for proper alignment but nothing about the tank having to be removed to install one.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:11 AM   #2
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Which bolt? Toe rod?
https://youtu.be/UFbXqmmENpY
Start at about 3:18 in the video. I hit the fuel tank with mine but its easily remedied.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:47 AM   #3
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Great video. The tech was able to adjust it within spec without changing the bolt so I got lucky there. However I'll probably put the new bolt in myself at some point. Thank you for the info.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:00 PM   #4
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Good to hear you got it fixed. Yea GM did a lot of stupid crap like that bolt. They also didnt add a fuel pump cover under the back seat like some cars have. They make you drop the exhaust and fuel tank to get to the pump. Ugh! GM.
Sorry my recent soap box.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:04 PM   #5
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Still after all these years? I had a 94 I had to replace the fuel pump on. Same issue. I ended up cutting an access plate right above the fuel tank in the hatch area to get to it....lol
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FasNuf View Post
Which bolt? Toe rod?
https://youtu.be/UFbXqmmENpY
Start at about 3:18 in the video. I hit the fuel tank with mine but its easily remedied.
You don't rely, I hope that after marking the starting position on the eccentric pad, you set the geometry of the rear axle back correctly...
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
You don't rely, I hope that after marking the starting position on the eccentric pad, you set the geometry of the rear axle back correctly...
It helped the OP, that was the point, anyway, I took the car to get a 4 wheel alignment. I don't rely on the factory alignment either. You never know when the aftermarket toe rods are shorter or longer center to center as well and I didn't bother to measure it since I knew an alignment was coming. I knew the alignment was off because the tires were so worn in the toe, so the new suspension parts weren't to blame, but still could've been off. Here's the video on that.

https://youtu.be/odPRr0xyCC4

Last edited by FasNuf; 08-24-2020 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:48 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FasNuf View Post
I took the car to get a 4 wheel alignment. I don't rely on the factory alignment either. You never know when the aftermarket toe rods are shorter or longer center to center as well and I didn't bother to measure it since I knew an alignment was coming. I knew the alignment was off because the tires were so worn in the toe, so the new suspension parts weren't to blame, but still could've been off. Here's the video on that.

https://youtu.be/odPRr0xyCC4
Exactly.
I write this because I made the same adjustment a few months back.
Even after marking the starting position, I was completely out of the geometry graph.

BMR has great products, but I think they made a mistake in what they write in the manual.

Many people will rely on the instructions and if there is no accident, owners will not like BMR. Because the car will behave worse.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:53 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
Exactly.
I write this because I made the same adjustment a few months back.
Even after marking the starting position, I was completely out of the geometry graph.

BMR has great products, but I think they made a mistake in what they write in the manual.

Many people will rely on the instructions and if there is no accident, owners will not like BMR. Because the car will behave worse.
Yes, and if he lowered the car things start getting really screwed up. The instructions for the toe rods and trailing arms were mediocre at best. Like I said in the video, they said to mark the eccentric bolts with chalk...who does that? They never mentioned about clocking the bushing with the suspension loaded either which is a good idea.
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Old 08-24-2020, 01:05 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by FasNuf View Post
Yes, and if he lowered the car things start getting really screwed up. The instructions for the toe rods and trailing arms were mediocre at best. Like I said in the video, they said to mark the eccentric bolts with chalk...who does that? They never mentioned about clocking the bushing with the suspension loaded either which is a good idea.
You are a clever person. What to add ... Good job


That I know what you're talking about







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Old 08-24-2020, 01:26 PM   #11
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Wow, I dont read the language, but I can definately see the red! Good thing you got that checked out.
When I came back from the alignment, I crawled under the car to see how much he moved my eccentric bolts. To my surprise the passenger side wasnt touched even though my toe was out on that side. I called and he said the camber was out and when he moved that back to spec, the toe followed in line. It all works together.
I was thinking about dropping the car 1" with BMR springs, but after thinking the correct way with the new lower control arms, dealing with the magnetic ride control calibration and another alignment, it was about $1000. I want to spend that money somewhere else. Lowering can wait if at all. There's a whole lot of geometry that gets affected there that's beyond caster, camber and toe. Drivetrain angle, roll center, CG, etc. Not things I'm ready to tackle. GM did OK for my streetcar, I'll leave it alone for now
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Old 08-24-2020, 04:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mSStrblSStr39 View Post
So I lowered my car with BMR 1.4 springs and needed to get it aligned. I had to buy the SPC bolts to be able to get the back into spec. While at the shop the tech told me he couldn't get the top drivers side stock bolt out due to the gas tank being in the way. Anyone ever heard of this before?
I've seen a few threads on needing to get the bolts for proper alignment but nothing about the tank having to be removed to install one.
Just went through that, but we were able to get it out. We had to angle the
toe-rod, push on it while yanking on the bolt. IT did come out, and went
back in the same way. I got under it, and yanked on it towards the rear
of the car while the other guy pulled on the bolt. To get it back in a little
easier, we ground a little over an 1/8th" off the end. Went right back
in...
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