07-07-2022, 02:11 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2023 Sharkskin ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
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Need new-engine + forced induction build advice - 2010 SS M6
Long story. My car is on its second LS3, that now either needs 'light rebuild' or engine replacement which costs about the same. Blah blah bearing. Bad luck? Whatever, it's toast.
Decades ago I promised myself a supercharged V8, which never came about. Maybe now is the time. My idea - instead of spending 8-9K on what's there, to get the car dragged elsewhere and instead order some sort of performance engine. Something lower compression or higher performance or whatever is good right now. My general ideas: 1. Stay M6 and preserve the joy of a very *streetable*/daily driver grade M6, with comparable mileage. 2. I won't ever be racing anyone. 3. Want either turbo, twin-turbo, or supercharger. I don't know, that's why I'm asking. 4. Would go so far as to replace the clutch assembly and axles (if that's a thing) to make the car able to handle the engine, less inclined to go more radical than that. 5. But I want to be terrified when I hit the gas. Presume there's a well recommended-guy around me to do the work. I'd like to be brought up to speed on some good ballpark ideas. Which Engine? Which forced induction choice and kit? Which drivetrain upgrades? Is there anything with the computer that is hard to work around? (This is a 2010). Thanks, Matt |
07-07-2022, 05:47 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 CAMARO RS/SS Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: AUCKLAND -NZ
Posts: 340
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The dream would be LSX with procharger !!!
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07-07-2022, 07:22 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 1,177
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You should just do some searches here and read. We are blessed with so many forced induction set ups for our cars. There are so many to chose from. Rebuild and have them put forged rotating assembly in. Then pick your boost. Superchargers will give you that instant hit and make your car feel like it’s got 750 cubic inch motor. Turbos will give you an insane mid and top end and will make more overall power on a dyno.
The good news is…it’s all been done here. You can search and read for days. And you’ll find every combo you can imagine. Good luck! |
07-07-2022, 08:42 PM | #4 |
2&THEHIT
Drives: 5th Gen Camaro; 5th Gen Ram 3500 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 1,032
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You're in Austin- get on I35 north and head to Texas Speed. Plenty of ways to spend money there. If you want streetable and manual I would lean to a blower. Either route will need fuel system upgrades as well. Like said above, read around, lots of builds around. User elesthree just sold his centri blower manual car that made big numbers. He would be a great resource for your questions.
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07-08-2022, 10:59 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 2SS, 2017 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Denver,PA
Posts: 3,195
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I have a 2010 SS/RS. I ordered and got mine in September of 2009. In 2010 I installed an Edelbrock supercharger, engine had 15K miles on it. It now has 71K miles on it. I have never had any problems with the engine or anything else. I didn't need another cam for what I use it for. It runs great and drives like a daily driver.
See mods below:
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2010 2SS/RS Victory Red, MN6, 1-7/8 Kooks LT Headers, SLP Axle Back, Edelbrock E-Force S/C, ZL1 Fuel Pump, 72# Injectors, JRE fuel rail upgrade, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite Catch Can, Billet Hurst Shifter, DSS 1000HP axles, Spohn Trailing Arms, Toe Links, Lower Control Arms. Chrome American Racing Torq-Thrust wheels. 546/rwhp & 522/rwtq & 10.9# boost Tune by Jeremy Formato.
Last edited by sscamaro; 07-09-2022 at 10:40 AM. |
07-08-2022, 03:21 PM | #6 | |
Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE A10 (stock) Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
2. For fun and not having to prove anything 3. If leaning toward a SC, plan ahead with cam, headers, intake to optimize power. Turbos are more forgiving with not needing those things and just upping boost for power. Both power adders will make you smile. 4. Yes, you'll have to beef up your drivetrain and suspension to handle the power. Twin-disc clutch (there are brands to prefer), 1pc driveshaft (haven't heard of a stock one failing but not sure if some try to use it with those power adders). I'd highly recommend a 3.73 ZL1 differential and OEM axles (best bang for the buck in my books). Make sure you up your rear suspension (trailing arms, toe rods at minimum, then solid cradle mounts, poly differential mounts (pain in the ass to add later, do it with the ZL1 diff add). Also, plan if not already (should be a given) to upgrade heads with springs and kit for higher reving. Stock heads flow awesome. 5. Spend more money for more power. Sounds great but with more power comes more problems. I'm breaking shit that not meant to break. If you keep 'er tame (less than 800whp) then life is better than >1,000whp. Just my story/opinion of having "in excess of..." compared to when I had 745whp on the LS3 and a happy camper (note my answer to #1 and 7 years). Mine is still a daily driver.
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> 2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE A10 - power upgrades in the initial design phase > > Past Builds: 2013 Twin-Turbo LSX434 M6 - 1,359rwhp daily |
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07-08-2022, 08:51 PM | #7 |
Dan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS IOM Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Georgia, USA not the other one
Posts: 1,045
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Simple recipe.
ESS tuning G3 kit pullied for 11-12 lbs (ID 850 or 1050 injectors) DSX aux pump and DSX E85 conversion 224/6 - 240/2 .615/.615 lift cam for centri (retains LS3 torque down low and lets the supercharger sing) LQ9 short block for boost (CNC motorsports has many) Stock heads with LS9 gaskets. .660 springs and CHE bushed trunions, ARP head bolts (let the supercharger push the air through) Twin disk clutch - Monster is nice ZL1 driveline 3.73 with solid alum chassis bushings Run on E85 Will make for good manners/reliability Stand by when the boost comes on Don't get overly stuck on the cam 224-228 on the intake is plenty. I did a bit more than this. But if doing it all over, this is exactly what I would do. Did all the work myself and I am low-middling on the mechanic spectrum.
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Dan
2010 IOM SS YSI-B, Pat G Cam, Ported CTS-V Heads, ARH LTs MBRP 3" exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=ysi |
07-08-2022, 09:32 PM | #8 |
Dan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS IOM Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Georgia, USA not the other one
Posts: 1,045
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5. Spend more money for more power. Sounds great but with more power comes more problems. I'm breaking shit that not meant to break. If you keep 'er tame (less than 800whp) then life is better than >1,000whp. Just my story/opinion of having "in excess of..." compared to when I had 745whp on the LS3 and a happy camper (note my answer to #1 and 7 years). Mine is still a daily driver.
This exactly. People like the 1K number but an 800hp street car is no joke and no traction...
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Dan
2010 IOM SS YSI-B, Pat G Cam, Ported CTS-V Heads, ARH LTs MBRP 3" exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=ysi |
07-09-2022, 12:36 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 zl1 m6 Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Alaska
Posts: 711
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07-09-2022, 02:27 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2023 SS 1LE 10SPD/2015 SS 427 Man Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sacramento Area
Posts: 803
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I think it would be helpful to have a horsepower number and budget in mind. I have built every combination imaginable but a few of them stick out as the most fun. (For me) A few of them stand out as can't/won't do again.
In my old age there a couple things I cannot tolerate anymore. 1) Exhaust and gas fumes from catless/long tubes. Clothes smelling like fuel from the exhaust. I can go to the racetrack and do it all weekend but don't like it for my daily driver. 2) The noise from the exhaust from the above^. Depending on where you live, local police, your neighbors can all be a factor. Top 2 Pics for most fun/power. LS3 with a LS9 cam, LSA supercharger on E85 thru cats. 650+Hp to the wheel, DSX Aux and Flex fuel. Fun as hell, quiet, smells good, drives like stock until you get into boost. As long as you don't put a sticky tire on it, the rear end and axles will live. Cradle bushings are a must tho to get rid of wheel hop. If you want a sticky tire, ZL1 driveshaft diff and axles are the ticket Next pick if you want more power than the above would be the AGP twin turbo kit. Count on upgrading clutch, rear end, fuel system. The turbo's act like a muffler and burn off gas fumes. Best of all worlds. Make stupid power on demand. AGP has been doing this for years and has all the bugs worked out.
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07-09-2022, 01:39 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,845
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I like Racesloths thinking, but I might opt for the PD blower. Hard to beat those on the street.
If you just want to scare the shit out yourself, put skinny tires on it and nail it going around a corner. No matter what you build, you will get used to the power level.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
07-12-2022, 11:50 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro (M6) 1000+ HP SBE Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,391
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A PD blower is instant hit but it maintains full pressure on your block after 2000-2500 RPM. To me a centrifugal blower is easier on your engine because under normal circumstances there is no pressure on your block until you hit it. I have been pushing the boundaries of SBE hp for about 4 years now. The big Procharger coupled with E-85 for fuel, in my opinion has preserved my engine because I dont hit it every day. You asked the question about what is better and all I can say is, "there is no better." In the end you have to decide which way to go. The F-1X with cog drive is not without issues, but since I changed to a deep groove idler pulley on the blower I have had no more belt pop and take something out issues. Where is some wood I can knock on, lol.
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F-1X, Cog Drive, ATI Super Pulley/Sprag ~ 19 psi
Blower Cam Brodix BP BR 3 Heads Kooks LT Headers and full 3" exhaust Fore Triple Pump Fuel System with ID 1700X Injectors - E85 conversion DSS 9” Conversion (1400 hp axles, driveshaft, pumpkin) & Strange 3.70 gears McLeod RXT Twin HD Clutch & Upgraded Slave RPM Level VII TR6060 BMR Drag Suspension Package w/Strange shocks Carlyle 15" and M/T ET Street R radials 10.1 @ 143 mph 1/4 mile |
07-12-2022, 05:33 PM | #13 | |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS 1Le Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: IL
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Go iron with twins. I'm a little biased to my centri. If I was going to build again and go over 1000whp, then I would've started with twins. Are you planning on doing highway pulls, or just putt around town?
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2014 SS 1LE Money Pit/ Forged 402
CAM 22X/24X, .619/.617, 113 LSA/ LS9 Heads FIC 1200cc/DSX Aux Pump//McLeod RXT Clutch 730whp: 630Trq |
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07-13-2022, 07:46 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,845
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
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