2013 SS 1LE RMP Level 4 Diff issues

[Leonidis1013]

Had an RPM diff installed last summer, (minimal driving), less that 1k miles, and during a 2nd gear shift, upon engagement, immediately obliterated the carrier. Rpm took it back upgraded a few parts gave me no price quote, sent it back then billed me $2,100..hahahahaha, On top of the $3500 I already spent on a grenaded rear diff. GOT EM!!!! I feel like I bought junk in a fancy box.

I suggest pay once hurt once. I also have the RPM level 7 TR6060. Just feel a bit taken advantage of. Anyone else have issues with RPM products? They are starting to lose their luster with me.

[acammer]

Are they still using the OEM clutch style LSD/Carrier? That would be a mistake, it's hard to go wrong with the TruTrac from both a performance and durability stand-point. Hopefully that's what they've got in there for you now. What's the rest of the setup on the car? I assume if you've got a Level 7 trans you may have some sort of power adder on the car, and potentially race it.

Diff issues on these cars are tough to place blame on, because they are really just undersized for the application. No matter how well you build one, it's a heavy car with lots of power, and when you couple that with unknown and possibly abusive driving styles, it's a recipe for failed parts - repeatedly. Stick shift cars are always much harder on parts, mix that with some marginal strength parts and you'll get breakage.

I've tore up a few in my day, and finally saw the light and just went to the 9" rear end. That's an extreme measure for most, but if it's a car you want to enjoy at the drag-strip, worry free, then I believe it's necessary. ZL1 rear end is another option, but those are getting harder to find, more costly, and worst off do not offer any gearing or differential upgrade options.

The piece of this that doesn't make sense to me is that there was no communication from them on the failure, the cost to repair it, etc. I don't know what the conversation was like when you sent the diff back, but I would assume you asked them to look at it, see what's wrong, and then discuss with you a path to resolution. Them just fixing it without your say-so seems to be an issue I'd ask them to speak to and explain - as well as why they believe it failed in the first place, and what they feel their liability should be in a scenario like that.

I can see both sides - you spent a bunch of money expecting something better than what you had - and then it failed in short order. From their perspective - they don't know what you put the part through once it left their hands. The trend on driveline parts lately has been to remove a power rating because they simply don't make sense. The same part in a 500whp stick car very well sees more abuse and is more likely to fail than if it was in a 800whp automatic car. Vehicle driveline combination, power, weight, and most importantly usage all have a influence on what a given part will tolerate - so a generic "xxx amount of power" rating is basically meaningless.