Hot start issues

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by SlimeV8

That would be much appreciated. So you’re saying that the bell housing ground along with the drivers side ground out of cylinder head solved your problem? I see some guys say the grounds fixed there and some not. I feel like I didn’t choose a good spot on the bell housing. I can’t see why some cars are getting fixed with extra grounds and some not. It’s so strange.

The passenger side bell housing bolt to the frame rail and also I did an extra ground from the negative battery terminal to the body in the trunk. Yeah I'll get you some pictures because I have to change my oil pan gasket on Wednesday.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by SlimeV8

Yeah after reading through some forums I decided to wire brush all of my grounds. So yesterday I hit the pigtail really good as well as its ground points. Also hit my battery ground really good too. There was quite a bit of leaves and debris but nothing super crazy. . Have yet to test it out but I feel like it may not solve the problem. We’ll see.

I've not run into the issue with the vert and it's a cammed 416 with headers. The turbo car gets so hot on the passenger side it melts wire loom, so I was not shocked when I got hot start problems. I found some high temp woven wire loom so I did not have to replace the loom every time I messed with the wiring, but that is another thread.

The first thing I did was add a ground cable from the bell housing to the frame, but that did not solve it so I kept going. I ground the paint off where the cable attaches to the body in the trunk, put the cable back and then hit it with some clear. I did the same thing where the ground goes from the engine to the body on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Then, I took apart the positive post in the engine compartment and wire brushed those ends before putting it back together. It is difficult to get that bolt good and tight given the how much that bracket wants to move. The problem with bypassing those connections at the post is ensuring a safe clean connection. The thread I saw on it used a 0ga jumper and clamps like you use for the earth bond ground for your house. IMO to correctly bypass that connection, you should run a new positive from the trunk and figure out a way to tie the other wires in.

You could try a butt connector like below, but I would put two or three layers of heat shrink over that (maybe a piece of plastic tubing) and make sure it could not move. Remember if that thing rubs through to ground it could burn your car down.

https://www.amazon.com/Splice-Connec...22&sr=8-3&th=1

Under the simple things first topic, make sure those crappy connectors everyone uses on batteries these days are getting a good connection. First time I looked at the vert battery, the negative was corroded which surprised me since the thing is out of the elements.

[acutron42]

Dumb question but is your heat shield in place?

[SlimeV8]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

I've not run into the issue with the vert and it's a cammed 416 with headers. The turbo car gets so hot on the passenger side it melts wire loom, so I was not shocked when I got hot start problems. I found some high temp woven wire loom so I did not have to replace the loom every time I messed with the wiring, but that is another thread.

The first thing I did was add a ground cable from the bell housing to the frame, but that did not solve it so I kept going. I ground the paint off where the cable attaches to the body in the trunk, put the cable back and then hit it with some clear. I did the same thing where the ground goes from the engine to the body on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Then, I took apart the positive post in the engine compartment and wire brushed those ends before putting it back together. It is difficult to get that bolt good and tight given the how much that bracket wants to move. The problem with bypassing those connections at the post is ensuring a safe clean connection. The thread I saw on it used a 0ga jumper and clamps like you use for the earth bond ground for your house. IMO to correctly bypass that connection, you should run a new positive from the trunk and figure out a way to tie the other wires in.

You could try a butt connector like below, but I would put two or three layers of heat shrink over that (maybe a piece of plastic tubing) and make sure it could not move. Remember if that thing rubs through to ground it could burn your car down.

https://www.amazon.com/Splice-Connec...22&sr=8-3&th=1

Under the simple things first topic, make sure those crappy connectors everyone uses on batteries these days are getting a good connection. First time I looked at the vert battery, the negative was corroded which surprised me since the thing is out of the elements.

Yeah I spoke with a mechanic who said go through and clean all grounds before you start bypassing stuff under the hood. That shouldn’t be necessary. GM has good engineers. You shouldn’t have to bypass anything etc. makes sense. Plus I really don’t wanna do the bypass thing. Surely we can fix this issue without that. Gonna grind that black paint off my ground in trunk and see if that helps as well as take a look at my bell house ground and make sure it’s a good and clean.

[SlimeV8]

Originally Posted by acutron42

Dumb question but is your heat shield in place?

Right now no because I wrapped the starter in race heat wrap all nice and neat after watching a YouTube video. Didn’t work Think Ima take the wrap off and reapply the heat shield. However I was having this problem with the heat shield and new starters as well. Wish it were that simple

[SlimeV8]

Alright so I think I may have some good news, I just ran her around to do some errands locally let her run for a good while (at least 20 min of diving ) and she fired right up after doing this. I went in and checked the ground I had on the bell housing, turns out it was on my oil pan going to frame but was above the heat shield and not grounded well I assume. So I repositioned this end of the ground under the heat shield to make good contact with metal. The other end I removed from the oil pan and relocated it to the bolt that mounts the starter. I also reinstalled the starter heat shield. As you can see my starter is wrapped with heat resistant wrap as well… we see how it goes. The first test went well. Kinda hard to tell what direction things are in the pic but the first 3 are before and the rest are after. So now I have a good ground from starter to the body, 2nd ground from drivers side cylinder head and freshly wire brushed pigtail. Let’s see how it goes

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Nice. In your last pic it looks like your ground cable is touching the edge of the heat shield. You might want to bent it a tad so it doesn't rub through. Not sure if that will cause an issue of not down the road. Just a thought.

[Sales@Phastek]

This will solve your issue. https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...tci-351119.htm

[RichTurbo2010]

You need to do a voltage drop test to verify the positive battery cables are good.I had to replace the starter harness under the hood and the cable from trunk to resolve my issue.I think I was losing 2 volts through the old cables.https://youtu.be/paw80mS_Kxg

[SlimeV8]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

Nice. In your last pic it looks like your ground cable is touching the edge of the heat shield. You might want to bent it a tad so it doesn't rub through. Not sure if that will cause an issue of not down the road. Just a thought.

Oooh you’re right. I’ll adjust that today. Thanks

[SlimeV8]

Originally Posted by RichTurbo2010

You need to do a voltage drop test to verify the positive battery cables are good.I had to replace the starter harness under the hood and the cable from trunk to resolve my issue.I think I was losing 2 volts through the old cables.https://youtu.be/paw80mS_Kxg

I Think I’ll take it into autozone and do that today. Just to be sure mine ain’t fried like yours was. Only thing is it seems like it would always be a problem if those were bad, not just when hot. NO?

[SlimeV8]

Originally Posted by Sales@Phastek

This will solve your issue. https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...tci-351119.htm

If things don’t get fixed. I may have to get that starter. Most people are saying that extra grounding helped fix their issue. I’ve bought 3 starters. Really don’t wanna buy or change another one. (Although it’s easy) btw it says sold out

[RichTurbo2010]

Originally Posted by SlimeV8

I Think I’ll take it into autozone and do that today. Just to be sure mine ain’t fried like yours was. Only thing is it seems like it would always be a problem if those were bad, not just when hot. NO?

The cables break down and build up resistance over time.It will be worse when the starter and cables are hot.If you touch a voltmeter lead to the battery stud under the hood and the starter and have someone crank the car over..you should see less than .5v on the meter.It takes a long jumper wire from the battery in the trunk to under the hood,so most people don't check it.

[SlimeV8]

Welll well well!!! Great news. This actually fixed my problem. I can’t believe it! All I did was go around and add some ground points and essentially make sure they were all clean. I drove for a hour yesterday, stopped and turned the car off. Waited 30 seconds and nervously turned the key. She fired right up like a Honda Civic!!! I was shocked! Thanks for all the help people!!! Can you tell how excited and relieved I am? Lol it’s been hell but I love this car so I dealt with it.