2012 SS N/A Build

[Leadsled]

Where did you order the CFD's flanges on the crossmember? I just dropped my subframe to do my oil pan gasket and i will never do that again! haha

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by Leadsled

Where did you order the CFD's flanges on the crossmember? I just dropped my subframe to do my oil pan gasket and i will never do that again! haha

I got them off of a member on here named CFD. Just send him a dm and he'll get you fixed up.

[morepowerjoe]

Well I still have the darn oil leak. Looks like it could be possibly coming from the valley cover again around the oil pressure sensor. So I got some engine oil dye and a blue light so we'll see how that goes. I did already purchase a billet valley cover from ICT because I believe mine is bent on the corner or somethings not right there. The only thing I don't like about it is it doesn't have the afm block off holes machined into it so for the seals. I bought the rivet gun for installing the rivets into the block to block off the oil passages for the afm crap. The only thing I'm concerned with is whether or not the rivet gun will fit under the cowl to the block allowing me to get to those two oil passages in the back. Hopefully it goes smooth.

[morepowerjoe]

[morepowerjoe]

Well I put the dye in the oil and then used the uv light to search for the leak. So, it did help to expose the leak but wasn't exactly where I expected it to be. It was coming from the rear of the valley cover, the oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler block off plate at the 1/8" npt port. I will tighten the oil cooler lines, teflon the 1/8" port, and I have already replaced the valley cover. I was really surprised by the quality of the ICT valley cover. The valley cover bolts are really high quality and you can really put some muscle to them to get the nice and tight. Everything was high quality, the valley cover itself, the hardware, and the oil pressure adapter. I did do the afm block off rivets too but forgot to take pictures of them. I am really bad about remembering to take pictures. The rivets went in pretty easy except the last two plugs because they are underneath the cowl. How did I do it? I cut the handles off of the rivet gun enough to get them to fit under the cowl. The very last one gave me the hardest time as the rivet gun was tilted a little and went in a little crooked but I also used thread sealant as well on each of the rivets so I'm sure it'll be fine. So I'll report back after I've driven it for a while.

[morepowerjoe]

Just finished everything up took it out for a drive and I think the oil leak is fixed. I'll have to drive it more to fully know. One thing I noticed was my oil pressure was up in the higher rpm range. That means I did have an internal oil leak either from the valley cover around the oil pressure sensor or from one of the afm oil passages under the valley cover.

Before the valley cover replacement and before afm rivets


After the valley cover replacement and after afm rivets


That's crazy a 12 psi increase at 6800 rpm, right where I needed it. I wish I would have done the rivets a lot sooner but live and learn .

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Well I put the dye in the oil and then used the uv light to search for the leak. So, it did help to expose the leak but wasn't exactly where I expected it to be. It was coming from the rear of the valley cover, the oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler block off plate at the 1/8" npt port. I will tighten the oil cooler lines, teflon the 1/8" port, and I have already replaced the valley cover. I was really surprised by the quality of the ICT valley cover. The valley cover bolts are really high quality and you can really put some muscle to them to get the nice and tight. Everything was high quality, the valley cover itself, the hardware, and the oil pressure adapter. I did do the afm block off rivets too but forgot to take pictures of them. I am really bad about remembering to take pictures. The rivets went in pretty easy except the last two plugs because they are underneath the cowl. How did I do it? I cut the handles off of the rivet gun enough to get them to fit under the cowl. The very last one gave me the hardest time as the rivet gun was tilted a little and went in a little crooked but I also used thread sealant as well on each of the rivets so I'm sure it'll be fine. So I'll report back after I've driven it for a while.

Attachment 1135119

That plate looks really good in there.

[morepowerjoe]

Yeah thanks.

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Attachment 1134807
Attachment 1134808

Hello,
Glad you got the leak fixed! I see that the bottom of the ICT plate does not use a perimeter o-ring, did you have to seal it with RTV when you installed it?

Looking Great!

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by Vicster

Hello,
Glad you got the leak fixed! I see that the bottom of the ICT plate does not use a perimeter o-ring, did you have to seal it with RTV when you installed it?

Looking Great!

Oh no, I installed the lingenfelter block off rivets in the block underneath the valley cover. Is that what you where referring too?

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Oh no, I installed the lingenfelter block off rivets in the block underneath the valley cover. Is that what you where referring too?

The plate as a whole, mine from Magnuson has a perimeter gasket. I noticed that yours does not. So was wondering if you used silicone on it, to seal it to the block...

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by Vicster

The plate as a whole, mine from Magnuson has a perimeter gasket. I noticed that yours does not. So was wondering if you used silicone on it, to seal it to the block...

Oh I see. No I just used a regular old gasket. I looked for one like yours but couldn't find one.

[morepowerjoe]

So, I figured out why I continue to have an oil leak at the rear of the oil pan. It was all because of crank case pressure. Cause you see I have a mishitmoto catch can with conventional pcv routing, but what I didn't think of was the pcv valve itself that I had installed in between the dirty side of the catch can and the passenger side valve cover. I looked up a pcv valve a long while back and came up with a specific part number and have been using that ever since. What I forgot about was that it's only 5/16 and the rest of the line is 3/8. So, I removed that damn thing and by doing so I increased the flow. Before I removed it, I didn't have any suction form the oil cap when I put my hand across it, and now without that pcv valve I can feel a little bit if suction which is what I've read that you want. I found a very informative article about pcv systems, and I have to give credit to this article for getting me to understand how a pcv system works. So, I recently paid a shop to replace the rear main and the oil pan gasket and at first it wasn't leaking until I went wot. Then it started leaking again. Not a lot but a pretty good drip. So after I removed that pcv valve the oil leak is GONE! I think it was enough of a restriction that it wasn't creating enough suction. Also, I have big piston ring gaps which is why I believe that I have such high crank case pressure to begin with (25/27). Here's the link to the article on pcv systems.

https://www.shophemi.com/images/medi..._ccv_bible.pdf

[SlowLS1]

Nice find, not something you expect to be the problem. Smart!